Contemplating on the engine mount kits being offered that i can install on my C2S, 2 came to mind: the wevo ss mount and the oem rs mount kit. Can we have a sharing on the 2 units? I have heard a lot about the wevo units and they do look a lot better than the oem rs units being offed by suncoast. Pricing is similar with the oem units costing a little bit lower. Im in theimpression that the oem rs units might have a better balance with nvh than the wevo for a street driven car. Wevo looks a million times better but harder so more for the track. Any opinions?

 

I have the wevo's and I like them.

There was a small increase in noise and vibration bu nothing too obnoxious. If anything the car just felt a little more like a "sports car".

On the track it was a noticeable improvement.

I have not tried the OE RS mounts,

T.

 

I have the Rennline Solid Mounts, they make a little more noise, but not that bad IMO.

 

I've been curious about this too. I can feel what I think is the motor swinging around on connecting turns and am also looking for a more solid feel from the shifter.

Vibrations are an odd thing, it's all about forcing frequencies and modes... The analysis can be brutally complicated. I know on other cars, such as high powered mustangs, solid mounts can wreck havoc. For that reason I was leaning towards the factory RS mounts. But honestly I have really no reason other than thinking perhaps they did some power spectral analysis when picking the durometer of the rubber.

I guess my main, perhaps irrational fear, is fasteners rattling out. But again if they did their fastener analysis right in the first place, this shouldn't be a problem.

 

Hope someone who has tried rs mounts would chime in

 

I went with solid mounts as I felt if I was going to change this, I would go with the biggest change. The engine mounts on the 911's up to the early 90's were solid, the cup cars are solid. Porsche add things like semi solid engine mounts and dual mass flywheels to soften the cars for the everyday driver. IMO it is a sports car, and if it is a little rough around the edges then it is ok with me.

 

I have the Wevo semi solid mounts and they definitely button up the car during aggressive shifting and in/out of the twisties. Easy DIY mod that makes a difference.

I had RS mounts in my 993 C4S and although a different car, the nvh factor is more pronounced at higher speeds and rpms with the 997 and the wevos.

 

I thought rs mounts on a stock suspension were great. Introduces a little vibration at idle, but I kind of liked it. Car feels much more planted.

I found, however, with stiff coilovers overall stiffness was too much and I pulled the rs mounts off.

 

I have the Wevo's and definitely feel the improvement is "tightening" up the motion of the engine to chassis. There is some vibration and sound increase, but not too significant in comparison to the performance enhancement.

 

Anywhere I could find a DIY for the engine mount swap?

 

This is for a GT3, but same thing for a Carrera

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...my-engine.html

 

Here is what I edited/wrote/copied down...

HTH,

T.

--- snip ---

Time: Once the car is secured on jackstands and the weight of the motor is supported by a jack, plan on 15 minutes to remove the airbox and the small electric air pump, then 15-20 minutes to remove and replace each of the two engine mounts, then 15 minutes to reinstall the air pump and airbox.

Tools needed:
floor jack and soft (e.g. wood/rubber) jack-pad
four jack stands
Torque wrenches for 18 ft-lbs & 60 ft-lbs
18mm deep socket (1/2” drive) and a 10”+ extension
13mm socket (3/8” drive)
10mm socket (3/8” drive)
two ratchets (1/2” drive & 3/8” drive)
various short extensions (and a universal flex coupling is helpful too) for the smaller sockets
A ½”drive breaker bar (to loosen the bottom nut on each stock engine mount)
flat-head screwdriver
flashlight

Steps:
1. Raise the car securely onto four jackstands (or a lift)

3. Using a soft jack-pad, support the motor’s weight with the floor jack (raise the jack until the pad contacts the solid metal hardpoint at the center-rear of the motor, then use the jack to carefully raise the motor a 1½” or so (stop just before you see the rear of the car start to lift). This takes the weight off the existing engine mounts.

You can loosen the 13mm bolts for a couple of turns, we will use this "slack" to make sure the engine is well supported and then lift the engine until you see/hear that the "slack" is taken

4. Remove the airbox: loosen the hose-clamp on the large rubber intake hose where it connects to the throttle body; unclip the electrical connection (by pinching its sides between your fingers); open the two plastic clips securing this electric lead to the airbox; remove the 10mm bolt at front-center of the airbox; free the oil-filler tube from its spring clip; finally, wiggle the airbox out in one piece.

A. First open the trunk lid and locate the air intake. First unclip the mass air flow sensors by pushing it in towards the intake and pushing the little clip on the one side to allow it to slide out and put it to the side since you will be putting back into the new intake.
B. Loosen all the clamps that hold the rubber hose on with a screwdriver and lift the entire Airbox out of the car, it will just pop right out. There will a clip connected to bottom of the Airbox with some hoses attached to it. You will remove that clip from the Airbox and just attached it to something on the side with the supplied zip tie.

5. Remove the air-pump from the left corner of the engine bay (it blocks access to the top of the driver’s side engine mount): remove two 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut securing the pump’s bracket to the car (you do not need to separate he pump from its bracket – both come out as one piece); unclip the electric connection and plastic wire-clips; wiggle the pump out of the car.

6. Replace first engine mount completely before loosening the second mount: Lay on your back under the car, use the 18mm deep socket, extension and breaker-bar to loosen the bottom nut; remove nut & save (you will re-use all hardware); then, from above in the engine bay, remove the two 13mm bolts connecting the engine mount to the car; remove factory engine mount; compare mount to WEVO mount to verify proper dimensions; insert WEVO mount from above – making sure that the square shape beneath the cone of the WEVO mount is aligned & fully seated within square hole in the engine carrier; install two 13mm top bolts (hand-tighten only for now); install main 18mm nut from below; if the mounts are properly seated into the engine carrier, you should see about 4 extra threads of the main bolt exposed beneath the main nut. Torque main nut to 60ft-lbs; then torque 13mm top bolts to 18-19 ft-lbs

7. Replace second engine mount (as above)

8. Remove engine supporting jack

9. Check alignment of new mounts and check torque of all six attachment points

10. Reinstall air pump

11. Reinstall airbox (before you do this, take the opportunity to inspect & clean your throttle body)

12. Lower car and test drive. Recheck torque on main (lower) bolts after 100 miles or so.

---

The M12 nut on the Engine Mount stud should be tightened to 60 ft/lbs or 83 Nm. The M8 hardware should be tightened to 18 ft/lbs or 25 Nm using the original arrangement of washer and nut.

Thanks to the authors of these two posts for showing me it was possible:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post2744059
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...nt-review.html

 

I recently installed the RS engine mount on my 997S. NVH is slightly more pronounced than stock. I can feel a little more vibrations through my back and buttocks, as well as on the steering wheel. I find this to be better for me as it allows me to feel more connected with the car. Also, in my case, the center stud was ~1" shorter than stock, thus we had to improvise and found that the Panamera stud was a perfect match.

Shifting is definitely crisper and more precise in my experience compared to stock. This feeling can be experienced even in daily driving in my case. You don't have to be on the track or speed shifting to experience this benefit.

As for engine movement during transitional turns or chicane like turns, there is essentially NONE! The rear end just feels very planted without any of that delayed response when you are making a quick connecting/chicane like turns.

Overall, I am very satisfied with this addition. It makes driving that much more enjoyable in an already enjoyable car!

 

RSS Engine mounts are also a great option guys!

 

I Have a 2005 997CS2
I recently changed my OEM (9 years old) to new OEM and the difference was dramatic! the new OEM looked different too. Mine had 993 part number on it the new ones had 997 part number so they have def been upgraded or changed somehow. I couldn't feel any diff in moving them with my hand when they were out but huge diff upon driving the car. Very precise rear end planted no more wobble under stress cornering, No added noise either.
I suggest that the OEM are prob very good and that they need to be changed after 4 years.
I must add that i have KWV3 suspension and the whole car came to life with these new OEMs. Im doubly thrilled with how comfortable and yet go-cart firm/pointed my ride is now, the wife says its the best its ever felt.