gauges going haywire
gauges going haywire
Over the course of the last two weeks my gauges Have been showing errors. The needles have swiped to the far right and then back, my cluster has stayed black when I ran the engine and when the ignition was turned off the Christmas tree stayed lite. The fuel gauge went erratic (full to empty and back) and now I have have a few lights
Failure fuel level indicator
Failure oil level indicator
Check engine visit workshop
Check brake pad wear
This all started when the cluster started experiencing electrical problems
The car starts up and seems to run fine, but I've not wanted to drive it very far due to the check engine light.
It will go into the shop soon, but I was hoping for a little advice and insight first.
Failure fuel level indicator
Failure oil level indicator
Check engine visit workshop
Check brake pad wear
This all started when the cluster started experiencing electrical problems
The car starts up and seems to run fine, but I've not wanted to drive it very far due to the check engine light.
It will go into the shop soon, but I was hoping for a little advice and insight first.
Over the course of the last two weeks my gauges Have been showing errors. The needles have swiped to the far right and then back, my cluster has stayed black when I ran the engine and when the ignition was turned off the Christmas tree stayed lite. The fuel gauge went erratic (full to empty and back) and now I have have a few lights
Failure fuel level indicator
Failure oil level indicator
Check engine visit workshop
Check brake pad wear
This all started when the cluster started experiencing electrical problems
The car starts up and seems to run fine, but I've not wanted to drive it very far due to the check engine light.
It will go into the shop soon, but I was hoping for a little advice and insight first.
Failure fuel level indicator
Failure oil level indicator
Check engine visit workshop
Check brake pad wear
This all started when the cluster started experiencing electrical problems
The car starts up and seems to run fine, but I've not wanted to drive it very far due to the check engine light.
It will go into the shop soon, but I was hoping for a little advice and insight first.
When electrical problems appear out of the blue I can think of several explanations.
1) Mice. If the car has sat unused a while and then the problems appeared: Mice.
2) Water is in the car. If the water is making it into the dash is can come from a leaking windshield or perhaps a blocked body water drain.
3) The alternator is not supplying enough electrical power and the car's electricity needs are being met by the battery which over time will be unable to supply the power. Odd and seemingly unrelated errors pop up as the car's various electric power systems react differently to the drop off in power.
I would advise you to get the car to a qualified shop for diagnosis. I would also advise you to have the car flat bedded rather than drive it.
The car sits for 10-14 days at a time in a clean garage in So. Cal. I keep it on a Porsche battery tender.
200 miles ago I installed LED DRL's and tail lights. Perhaps I should put the stock units back on. They function correctly, with the exception of a rear fog bulb not working.
200 miles ago I installed LED DRL's and tail lights. Perhaps I should put the stock units back on. They function correctly, with the exception of a rear fog bulb not working.
The car sits for 10-14 days at a time in a clean garage in So. Cal. I keep it on a Porsche battery tender.
200 miles ago I installed LED DRL's and tail lights. Perhaps I should put the stock units back on. They function correctly, with the exception of a rear fog bulb not working.
200 miles ago I installed LED DRL's and tail lights. Perhaps I should put the stock units back on. They function correctly, with the exception of a rear fog bulb not working.
However, I would be more inclined to suspect the LED DRL's and and tail lights. Last thing touched first thing suspected. In some way some lights are part of the car's communication system and if these aftermarket units are incompatible this can account for the behavior you are experiencing.
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Is it the OEM Moll battery? I've had these test good one day and the next not have enough power to crank the car. If it is a Moll you can find the "date of birth" stamped on top of the negative terminal as MMYY or maybe WWYY, can't remember. Electrical problems are always a bear to diagnose - good luck.
Probably not part of the problem but your H6 battery size is smaller than the OEM H7 size.
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