I understand that the brake fluid should be changed every 2 years. I don't think I've ever changed the brake fluid in any car I've ever owned and have kept some up to 8 years. I don't track the Porsche so why so often?

 

Brake fluid is hydroscopic so if you intend to keep your car for many years and keep it in top condition, you should change the fluid every two years ( any car).

 

With a Motive Power Bleeder, it takes less than an hour (I use it dry). Super easy to do, and there are many write-ups on this forum and others. One of our club members did an article explaining why and how - http://arpca.com/wp-content/uploads/...n-2016_web.pdf

 

thanks guys

 

I use the Motive too, and used to use it dry as well, until I made the mistake of running the resevoir dry during one of my annual bleeding sessions, where I then had to rebleed all the wheel and use the Durametric to activate the ABS solenoid too. After this unnecessary adventure, I just fill up the Motive with 3-4 liters of fluid and do all the vehicles together on one day. I use Motul RBF600 in my 2 997s and also in my 928 so these vehicles get an annual bleed / refresh since the higher temp racing brake fluids are more prone to water retention (hygroscopic), and without having to stop to replenish the resevoir every caliper or 2, you can literally do a complete car in 15-20 minutes. My wheel spoke patterns on these cars is also open enough where I don't even have to remove the wheels. I have capture bags with silicone hoses from Speedbleeders, as well as their bleed nipples on all my calipers, which is probably overkill when using the Motive pressure bleeder, but provides for additional peace of mind. I use some green brake cleaner spray to clean up the Motive between annual uses.

 

Hey Pete, for the normal every 2 year bleeding, is activating the ABS solenoid a part of the bleeding process (whether or not a Motive Power Bleeder is used)?

 

I don't normally do that. I only did it when I had introduced air into the system because after doing a lot of normal bleeding at all 4 wheels, I still didn't have a solid pedal that would hold pressure well. After activating the solenoids during the bleeding process, everything returned to the proper feel.

If I happen to be doing the bleeding on the lift becuase the car is up there for another reason (oil change, tire rotation, etc) I'll also bleed the clutch at the same time since it shares the same brake fluid supply and I'm not sure if fluid gets parked there or moved through the system when the calipers are bled. I came up with a really neat bleeding setup using stuff I already had. One of my ratchet sets is a Craftsman (other brands available too) designed for long bolts so all of the gearing is outside and the sockets, extensions, and ratchet handles are open down the center. This lets me slide the silicone bleeder hose with bleeder bag attached through the center of the ratchet and then I can loosen and retighten the bleed nipple without having to remove the tool from the nipple as that one is kind of a PITA to access. No drips of brake fluid anywhere and no air entering back into the system. This one is a two person job though as the clutch pedal has to be pumped slowly when the bleed nipple is opened and then the bleed nipple closed before the pedal is allowed to return. Setup looks like this.


Clutch Bleeding Rig



Hose on bleed nipple then ratchet setup slipped onto bleed nipple base



Fluid coming through the line

 

Genius! Golly, wish you were my neighbor to work on cars together in your garage...far far better than Tool Time Tim!

 

I can feel air and groaning sounds when the brake fluid is over 3 years old.

Back in the 90s, I had two cars with brake failures. The brakes were simply gone during hard braking. I suspect it had to do with old brake fluids that were never changed.

Brake fluids get dark and dirty when contaminated with water, air, and when burnt. Do not ignore this. It is only $75-130 to have it flushed every 2 years.

 

Thanks and hopefully, I break less stuff, since I don't have an "Al".

 

Concept is dead-on correct - word is not. You'd think hydro like water, but it's actually hygroscopic with a G.

HyDroscopic | Define Hydroscopic at Dictionary.com
www.dictionary.com/browse/hydroscopic
Hydroscopic definition, an optical device for viewing objects below the surface of water.

HyGroscopic | Definition of Hygroscopic by Merriam-Webster
www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/hygroscopic
Merriam‑Webster
1 : readily taking up and retaining moisture. 2 : taken up and retained under some conditions of humidity and temperature ...