Like I said in the title, has any one here with a LHD car changed the oil himself? Any tips you'd like to share?

Thanks!

 

There is a hole in the bottom of the DB9's aluminum belly for the oil drain bolt(easy part!!!!!!). And the only hard part of the oil change is getting at the $80.00 oil filter. You need the unbolt the left side throttle butterfly housing (4 bolts 8mm, I can recall) to access the oil filter. Changing oil on a DB9 is a pain-in-the-***!!!!! because of where the filter is located.

 

Any tips to share?

 

I did!!!

 

Well, any tips to share ???

 

Hi. Where exactly is the hole located for the oil drain bolt? thanks

 

Changing out the filter is the hard part, v12 filter is on left side of the block deep down in there like was said you need to pull the tb and go in thru the top, if you had the car on a lift you might try removing the left wheel well liner and left front wheel and try going in thru there. Other then that drain and fill is no issues, takes a lot of oil, but the filter location is def the hardest part of the DBS/DB9.

 

You will have to remove the metal belly pan on the bottom of the car to get access to the drain bolt. I recommend you have two people so one can help remove the other end when its time to slide it out. Its a torx bit as well. I don't remember the exact size but buy a set at Harbor Freight and its bound to have the correct one. As for the oil filter removal its not all that bad. Just remove the throttle bottle (held in by 4 bolts) and do NOT forget to disconnect the electrical connector for the TPS sensor on the bottom. Once the throttle body is out of the way reach down to losen the filter by hand. Let it drain for a good 15 mins once you crack it loose to minimize clean up.

 

I've done a few!!


Remove the engine undertrays..
Remove the sump drain plug/plugs (some early models have 2)..once drained fit back sump plugs(new prefered, but your choice)
From top remove the intake tube to TB on drivers side, I put a cover on the radiator cover(towel wil work) and fit a bungee cord between the hose and the hood latch..this keeps the hose out of my way(bungee cord is an option, it is not needed, just makes life simpler).

Now remove the drivers TB bolts and get ready to catch the large O-ring seal..put aside to re-use or toss if you have a new O-ring.

Place the TB aside with the electrical connector still attached(if vehicle is not fully alseep it will see the TB disconnected and can store a fault)..to be safe you can just leave connector attached, and just place the TB aside to the front of engine out of the way.

You now have access to the oil filter with TB removed. There is a black coolant metal pipe running along the cam cover, there is a 8mm nut securing to cam cover just over the PS pump..remove the nut so pipe is move-able

I have oil soak pads, I fit 1 sheet under the oil filter, and from under the vehicle I fit them to soak up the spilled oil (this just reduces clean up time)

Now remove the filter from the top(I just use a oil filter plyer tool)...turn the filter so you can see the inside, stick a rag over the filter, stick your finger in the filter threaded section(be careful for sharp areas and hot oil)..pull filter straight up and out, might have to wiggle around but it will pass.

Now lube the new filter seal and fit in place, clean up all the spilled oil..(I use brake cleaner, if you have a large amount you might need to pressure wash the area)..if you do use brake cleaner, make sure to avoid the drive belt..brake cleaner+drive belt=squeaking belt..

Now cleaned, just reverse all steps and reset your service light

 

Hey Irish nice write up bud! If it's not too much trouble can you give us a parts list of the items we'll need to perform an oil service, as well as number of qts of oil and what oil to put in (what you prefer for the DB9/DBS v12 engines)...thanks

 

Ah, where would we all be without our local Aston guru: Irish?

Thanks for your expertise as always.

 

Thanks Sunir, Irish and Dan...I'll give it a shot and will keep you guys updated. Thanks