Things that Work : Car Care Products
#31
01-07-2013, 06:21 PM
Registered User
Me either. Googled it; it's a sealant. Don't want to give them free press..... website here: http://www.cilajet.com/
Breezman, did they tell you why it's so good?
Breezman, did they tell you why it's so good?
#32
01-07-2013, 06:23 PM
Registered User
Cilajet is some kind of treatment for leather and paint. It's supposed to expel liquids and make cleaning easy. I've had it on my Turbo S but honestly can't tell you if it works or not over time since I sold it after a year. Dealers offer it and charges about $12-1600 for the treatment.
#33
01-07-2013, 06:23 PM
Cilajet is some kind of treatment for leather and paint. It's supposed to expel liquids and make cleaning easy. I've had it on my Turbo S but honestly can't tell you if it works or not over time since I sold it after a year. Dealers offer it and charges about $12-1600 for the treatment.
#34
01-07-2013, 06:25 PM
Registered User
For my sales man defense, he said that they don't have it or do it, just that i should do some research and find where to get it done.
#35
01-07-2013, 06:28 PM
At $1,200-1,600/application you'd have to use a lot of soap and water b/f it makes any sense...... I don't have a bug/dirt on my dd b/c I keep it clean all the time.
#36
01-08-2013, 05:47 PM
I don't think there is anything out there that will act as a magic miracle protectant. I know the dealers talk about all the sealents, and paint protection and windshield treaments etc... but I don't know how good any of these are to protect the car...I think that general best pracitices applied routinely in keeping the car clean, well mainatained, garaged, and properly cared for will make the best overall impact in the long run.
#37
01-09-2013, 08:28 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Marina del Rey, CA
Posts: 260
Rep Power: 24 
Lol, I've noticed absolutely no difference at all! But I did sleep better at night.
#38
01-09-2013, 10:44 AM
I will check out the washes. But I will tell you I invested $250 to have my detailer apply Opti-Coat since my XKR was my first black car in years and I wanted to lock in the nearly perfect finish I had my detailer spend literally 24 hours in my garage creating.
Well the Opti-Coat seems to be gone gone within 3 months. Water doesn't bead and I do see vine scratches although only use microfiber, two bucket wash technique etc. Yet the Opti-Coat was supposed to last years!
Hopefully this wash product is better.
Well the Opti-Coat seems to be gone gone within 3 months. Water doesn't bead and I do see vine scratches although only use microfiber, two bucket wash technique etc. Yet the Opti-Coat was supposed to last years!
Hopefully this wash product is better.
-Beach
#40
01-09-2013, 02:46 PM
I think that I'm perhaps the only person who isn't a huge fan of OptiCoat. I applied it to my black 1993 Porsche after polishing the paint to perfection about a year and a half ago, and I still get some swirl marks in the paint. I polish the coating every so-often to repair any damage done, so perhaps I've removed the coating? I wouldn't think so, though, as I only polish it with Menzerna SF4000 and a super fine pad. It was also a ***** to apply, and cured unevenly in some spots where I had to polish it to level it out.
On the other hand, it does really enhance the glossiness of the finish, and really protects against stone chips.
Anyhow, one product that I just started using and am having great results with is Lusso Oro. Have two coats on my Ferrari, one coat on my SL55, and have even applied it to my Opti Coated Porsche. Great stuff and very easy to use....not to mention it smells amazing.
On the other hand, it does really enhance the glossiness of the finish, and really protects against stone chips.
Anyhow, one product that I just started using and am having great results with is Lusso Oro. Have two coats on my Ferrari, one coat on my SL55, and have even applied it to my Opti Coated Porsche. Great stuff and very easy to use....not to mention it smells amazing.
Last edited by tandelaw; 01-09-2013 at 02:48 PM.
#41
01-09-2013, 04:23 PM
Registered User
Just spoke to a guy here in santa monica that claims for this to be the process... Don't hold back 
Carefully hand wash exterior.
Clay bar safely removes paint overspray, fallout, environmental contaminants and more, making waxing easier and more durable.
Apply light rubbing compound to paint.(If required)*
Apply two coats of foam pad glaze
Apply two coats of hand glaze
Apply two coats of base coat / clear coat wax.
Apply two coats of liquid carnuba wax.
Apply two coats of paste carnuba wax. Wheels Tires and Trim:
Clean wheels thoroughly – remove brake dust, road grime and debris.
Tires and body moldings receive careful application of silicone protectant.
Carefully hand wash exterior.
Clay bar safely removes paint overspray, fallout, environmental contaminants and more, making waxing easier and more durable.
Apply light rubbing compound to paint.(If required)*
Apply two coats of foam pad glaze
Apply two coats of hand glaze
Apply two coats of base coat / clear coat wax.
Apply two coats of liquid carnuba wax.
Apply two coats of paste carnuba wax. Wheels Tires and Trim:
Clean wheels thoroughly – remove brake dust, road grime and debris.
Tires and body moldings receive careful application of silicone protectant.
#42
01-09-2013, 06:07 PM
^^^ man that's a ton of work
I dunno that all is required for a brilliant shine and depth of color and great protection. I think a few good products applied well ought to do just fine.
My one afternoon exterior detail (for painted surfaces, a am not a pro detailer but know a few and am a hobbyist/enthusiast like many who may like to keep their cars looking nice):
wash with ONR
clay (if needed)
all in one product - klasse or otherwise
nice sealant glase - Menzerna, poor boys, chemical guys
wax coat ...pinnacle soverign etc...
** Apply with appropriate pads using Porter Cable orbital
sit back have a beer and enjoy the shine and luster! This is the most important part
I dunno that all is required for a brilliant shine and depth of color and great protection. I think a few good products applied well ought to do just fine.
My one afternoon exterior detail (for painted surfaces, a am not a pro detailer but know a few and am a hobbyist/enthusiast like many who may like to keep their cars looking nice):
wash with ONR
clay (if needed)
all in one product - klasse or otherwise
nice sealant glase - Menzerna, poor boys, chemical guys
wax coat ...pinnacle soverign etc...
** Apply with appropriate pads using Porter Cable orbital
sit back have a beer and enjoy the shine and luster! This is the most important part
Last edited by sunir; 01-09-2013 at 06:14 PM.
#44
01-09-2013, 06:30 PM
Registered User
Sunir- unfortunately i am not handy nor have the time.. but i can have a beer with you
the detail guy wanted 500 for that work.
the detail guy wanted 500 for that work.
Last edited by Breezman; 01-09-2013 at 07:16 PM.
#45
01-10-2013, 10:17 AM
From first-hand experience i'll give you one example:
'02 Lexus IS300 - My girlfriend's daily driver.
Toyota's are notorious for having poorly manufactured headlights which haze/yellow VERY rapidly. Even on newer model Lexus' and Toyota's I have personally seen the headlights haze up and discolor within months of purchase, especially here in New Mexico where we get PLENTY of sun year round.
I have tried numerous products from synthetic sealants, natural and/or synthetic hybrid waxes from nearly every brand etc etc with little success over a longer period of time. Prior to each application of all the products used, I corrected the lens by either sanding, compounding, or both. I have now had Opticoat on the lenses of her Lexus for a little under 2 years now and have yet to see any sort of failure from the product. Other then a slight decrease in water-beading I can't complain! My main concern was preventing the haze/discoloration from coming back. Keep in mind this vehicle is NOT garaged and daily driven.
I must comment on how I feel about "Permanent" Products. I don't believe anything is permanent. A paint's clearcoat is not permanent, and in addition to micro-removal of the clear through polishing it will degrade over time. My way of going about it is to find a product that lasts as long as possible to slow the aging process. With that said, If I only get 2-3 years out of a "permanent coating" so what? At least it beats the TIME and MONEY spent on having to reapply a product every few weeks or couple months! Also beats having to spend $$$ on experimental products in which their only purpose now is to collect dust on a shelf. My 2 cents
Here's a pic for your viewing pleasure:
Here is a link to a review testing the longevity of the product:
http://prodetailing.blogspot.com/201...r-2-years.html
There are more reviews elsewhere but i'll leave the researching up to you
The coating is scratch resistant, not scratch-proof. If proper wash techniques are not used, you will induce swirls/scratches in the coating (considering you polished every defect out of your paint as you said).
I'm 95% sure that you have removed the coating after polishing. I remember reading somewhere that depending on the application, 3 microns is the average thickness of the coating on top of the paint's clearcoat.
What is it your trying to accomplish?
IMO, the 2-step (4 coat) glaze process is not necessary unless your trying REALLY hard to fill scratches in the paint. Why not just polish instead?
6 Coats of wax?
I've personally never heard of a base coat/clear coat wax. The main purpose of a wax is to "protect" the paint. So what is the difference between the base/clear coat, liquid, and paste wax other than maybe a slight difference in overall look and/or ease/difficulty of application? Nothing, really.
Again, what is it that your looking to achieve? The majority of what he has quoted you is likely a way to just get more money out of you and lengthen the whole process to make it seem your getting your moneys worth.
-Beach
'02 Lexus IS300 - My girlfriend's daily driver.
Toyota's are notorious for having poorly manufactured headlights which haze/yellow VERY rapidly. Even on newer model Lexus' and Toyota's I have personally seen the headlights haze up and discolor within months of purchase, especially here in New Mexico where we get PLENTY of sun year round.
I have tried numerous products from synthetic sealants, natural and/or synthetic hybrid waxes from nearly every brand etc etc with little success over a longer period of time. Prior to each application of all the products used, I corrected the lens by either sanding, compounding, or both. I have now had Opticoat on the lenses of her Lexus for a little under 2 years now and have yet to see any sort of failure from the product. Other then a slight decrease in water-beading I can't complain! My main concern was preventing the haze/discoloration from coming back. Keep in mind this vehicle is NOT garaged and daily driven.
I must comment on how I feel about "Permanent" Products. I don't believe anything is permanent. A paint's clearcoat is not permanent, and in addition to micro-removal of the clear through polishing it will degrade over time. My way of going about it is to find a product that lasts as long as possible to slow the aging process. With that said, If I only get 2-3 years out of a "permanent coating" so what? At least it beats the TIME and MONEY spent on having to reapply a product every few weeks or couple months! Also beats having to spend $$$ on experimental products in which their only purpose now is to collect dust on a shelf. My 2 cents
Here's a pic for your viewing pleasure:
Here is a link to a review testing the longevity of the product:
http://prodetailing.blogspot.com/201...r-2-years.html
There are more reviews elsewhere but i'll leave the researching up to you
I think that I'm perhaps the only person who isn't a huge fan of OptiCoat. I applied it to my black 1993 Porsche after polishing the paint to perfection about a year and a half ago, and I still get some swirl marks in the paint. I polish the coating every so-often to repair any damage done, so perhaps I've removed the coating? I wouldn't think so, though, as I only polish it with Menzerna SF4000 and a super fine pad. It was also a ***** to apply, and cured unevenly in some spots where I had to polish it to level it out.
On the other hand, it does really enhance the glossiness of the finish, and really protects against stone chips.
On the other hand, it does really enhance the glossiness of the finish, and really protects against stone chips.
I'm 95% sure that you have removed the coating after polishing. I remember reading somewhere that depending on the application, 3 microns is the average thickness of the coating on top of the paint's clearcoat.
Just spoke to a guy here in santa monica that claims for this to be the process... Don't hold back
Carefully hand wash exterior.
Clay bar safely removes paint overspray, fallout, environmental contaminants and more, making waxing easier and more durable.
Apply light rubbing compound to paint.(If required)*
Apply two coats of foam pad glaze
Apply two coats of hand glaze
Apply two coats of base coat / clear coat wax.
Apply two coats of liquid carnuba wax.
Apply two coats of paste carnuba wax. Wheels Tires and Trim:
Clean wheels thoroughly – remove brake dust, road grime and debris.
Tires and body moldings receive careful application of silicone protectant.
Carefully hand wash exterior.
Clay bar safely removes paint overspray, fallout, environmental contaminants and more, making waxing easier and more durable.
Apply light rubbing compound to paint.(If required)*
Apply two coats of foam pad glaze
Apply two coats of hand glaze
Apply two coats of base coat / clear coat wax.
Apply two coats of liquid carnuba wax.
Apply two coats of paste carnuba wax. Wheels Tires and Trim:
Clean wheels thoroughly – remove brake dust, road grime and debris.
Tires and body moldings receive careful application of silicone protectant.
IMO, the 2-step (4 coat) glaze process is not necessary unless your trying REALLY hard to fill scratches in the paint. Why not just polish instead?
6 Coats of wax?
I've personally never heard of a base coat/clear coat wax. The main purpose of a wax is to "protect" the paint. So what is the difference between the base/clear coat, liquid, and paste wax other than maybe a slight difference in overall look and/or ease/difficulty of application? Nothing, really.Again, what is it that your looking to achieve? The majority of what he has quoted you is likely a way to just get more money out of you and lengthen the whole process to make it seem your getting your moneys worth.
-Beach