DIY Oil Change- DB9
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 306
From: San Jose, CA
Rep Power: 20
Duplicating Ed's page here as his website no longer works;
Looks like the Genuine Aston Martin filter is made by Donaldson in Mexico - https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4587352
Filter Scoring System
In addition to my “opinion” rating of the filters, I am attempting to rate the filters based on a scoring system. This is also opinion based, but it provides details to the reasons for my opinions of the different filters. The scores are generated by breaking the filters down into various factors that influence the overall rating and then weighting the factors to achieve an overall score. Here is how I see the various factors and how they figure into the overall rating.
Filter Can Quality – 3 points
There is very little difference in the various filter cans. And this is a relatively unimportant category. All of the filters were either a 3 or a 2. In most cases, if the can used 0.020” thick material, I rated it a 3. If it was less, I rated it a 2. Even though the Amsoil Ea011 Filter had a 0.020” thick can, I rated it a 2 because it had no features to make installation easier (no flutes, flats, or easily gripped surface). The FL-820S scored 3 points in this category.
Base Gasket Design – 3 points
This is another minor category. Most filters were awarded either 1 point or 2 points. I gave the Denso 150-1014 3 points because of its innovative gasket design. All the other filters used similar square section O rings. If the O ring included a lubricant, I awarded the filter 2 points in the category. Otherwise it got 1 point. The FL-820S scored 1 point in this category.
Inner Core Design – 3 Points
I preferred the inner core design of the Purolator, Wix, and Amsoil filters and gave them all 3 points. The other filters that used a metal inner core (including the Motorcraft FL-820S) got 2 points. The Champion labs filters that used a plastic inner core got 1 point.
Retainer Spring Design – 3 points
I prefer the coil spring type retainer. I feel it will be more consistent in providing consistent pressure on the filter element and give the best seal between the filter element and base. Filters that use a coil spring retainer got 3 points. All the others (including the FL-820S) got 2 points.
Anti-Drain Back Valve Design – 15 points
I consider this a very important factor for Ford Overhead Cam Engines. It is probably less important for the old OHV engines. If you ahve an OHV engine you might want to drop this factor from 15 to 10 points. I rated the ADBVs based on material and design. The Amsoil EaO11 Filter had the best design (in my opinion) and I gave it 15 points. The FL-820S had the next best design and got 14 points. Most of the other “premium” filters with silicone ADBVs were given 11 or 12 points. The Donaldson P550965 had a ADBV similar in design to the Amsoil EaO11but it was molded from nitrile instead of silicone. Therefore I gave it only 10 points. The filters that used the combination ADB and Relief Valve design (Wal*Mart and STP) got the lowest score of 3 points.
Relief Valve Design – 10 points
This is a hard category for me to score. All the filters I have evaluated, except for the Motorcraft FL-820S, have a dome end relief valve design. The FL-820S relief valve is far more elaborate and expensive than the relief valve design used by any of the other filters. So why does Ford go to all this trouble for a relatively inexpensive filter, while all of the other premium filters, including filters that cost 4 times as much make do with a dome end relief valve? I don’t know the answer. I do believe the base end design is the best (well except for the cheaply made combo valves). Interestingly, several of the other manufacturers admit that the base end design might be required by some manufacturers. It seems to me that Ford, by the design of their OEM Filter, is making this a requirement. I can only assume it is not written into the product specifications, since all of the premium filters are claimed to meet OEM specifications. I gave the FL-820S filter 10 points in this category. The filters with the coil spring loaded dome end filter element relief valves got 5 or 6 points. The Fram filters got 3 and 4 points (the TG2 got 4 because of the screen – I am not sure this is justified). The Bosch filter got 3 because I just don’t like the design. The cheap filters with the combined ADB and relief valves got 2 points. If you don’t think the relief valve design or location is particularly important, you might want to rescore this category.
Media - total of 40 points, broken down into four 10 point sub-categories
Now we come to the most important categories. These are the ones that actually relate to the filter media. I don’t have the means to actually test the media; therefore this is a beauty contest more than an actual performance contest. This is the only way I can rate the . I love to hear a suggestion on a better rating method. Rather than have one overall score for the media, I have broken it down into 4 sub-categories worth 10 points each – media volume, media surface area, filter element construction quality, and filter media quality. Therefore the media represents 40% of the total score. This might not seem like enough since the primary purpose of the oil filter is to filter the oil, but the filters don’t differ greatly in the other categories, so the media categories taken together are the deciding factors.
Media Volume – 10 points
This was a straight forward calculation. The filter with the most total media, the Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 FIlter was awarded 10 points. The other filters were award points based on their total media volume compared to this. The FL-820S got 8 points. The Amsoil EaO11 was only awarded 5 points. I am worried this comparison is not fair to the EaO11 Filter. All of the other filters had media that was either cellulose or cellulose blended with “synthetic” fibers. It may be that the Amsoil media is so different, a direct comparison of volume is irrelevant.
Media Surface Area – 10 points
More surface area equates to higher flow rates and more contaminant holding ability. The Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 FIlter was awarded 10 points in this category since it had the greatest surface area. The other filters were award points based on their total media surface area compared to this. The FL-820S was awarded 6 points in this category. Again, because of the unusual media, I am not sure I am being fair to the Amsoil EaO11 Filter (it scored only 4 points).
Filter Element Construction Quality – 10 points
The Amsoil EaO11 Filter has a very well constructed filter element and I awarded it 10 points. The Donaldson filter element was the same as the Amsoil filter except for the media, so I awarded it 10 points as well. The FL-820S was slightly better made (mostly because of the interface to the ADBV) than the “premium” filters that used metal end caps and was awarded 8 points. All of the other filters that used metal end caps and a glued media seam were awarded 7 points. The Denso filter also was awarded 7 points despite using a metal clip to make the media joint. The Fram filters were awarded 4 points and this was generous given the low quality appearance of the paper end caps and the use of a metal clip to make the media joint. The Wal*Mart and STP filters were awarded 3 points. I just don’t like the poorly bonded fabric end caps.
Filter Media Quality – 10 points
This was strictly my opinion. I liked the Amsoil media and awarded it 10 points. I awarded the FL-820S 8 points. The “premium” filters all got 7 to 9 points. The lowest rated fitler was the Pro-Tec 159 which got 4 points.
Maximum Points Normalized to 100
Filter.Mfg.........Filter.P/Ni......Total.Score.(without.cost)
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford................CM-6731-FL820S..91
Motorcraft..........FL-820S ........81
Motorcraft..........MFL-820 ........79
Purolator...........PL24651 ........79
Denso...............150-1014........79
Wix.................51372...........78
Donaldson...........P550965.........78 [Genuine Aston Martin Filter]
Amsoil..............EAO11...........78
Fleetguard..........LF16002.........75
Mobil.1.............M1-210..........73
K&N.................HP-2010.........73
Bosch...............3410............70
Purolator...........L24651..........69
Fleetguard..........LF3681..........69
Pro-Tec.............159.............66
ProLine.............PPL-24651.......65
Advance.Auto........AA2.............65
C..G..Enterprises...Viper.2.........65
Hastings............LF110...........66
Fram................TG-2............64
Fram................PH-2............52
Wal*Mart............ST2.............49
STP.................S2..............49
AC.Delco............PF1250..........49
In addition to my “opinion” rating of the filters, I am attempting to rate the filters based on a scoring system. This is also opinion based, but it provides details to the reasons for my opinions of the different filters. The scores are generated by breaking the filters down into various factors that influence the overall rating and then weighting the factors to achieve an overall score. Here is how I see the various factors and how they figure into the overall rating.
Filter Can Quality – 3 points
There is very little difference in the various filter cans. And this is a relatively unimportant category. All of the filters were either a 3 or a 2. In most cases, if the can used 0.020” thick material, I rated it a 3. If it was less, I rated it a 2. Even though the Amsoil Ea011 Filter had a 0.020” thick can, I rated it a 2 because it had no features to make installation easier (no flutes, flats, or easily gripped surface). The FL-820S scored 3 points in this category.
Base Gasket Design – 3 points
This is another minor category. Most filters were awarded either 1 point or 2 points. I gave the Denso 150-1014 3 points because of its innovative gasket design. All the other filters used similar square section O rings. If the O ring included a lubricant, I awarded the filter 2 points in the category. Otherwise it got 1 point. The FL-820S scored 1 point in this category.
Inner Core Design – 3 Points
I preferred the inner core design of the Purolator, Wix, and Amsoil filters and gave them all 3 points. The other filters that used a metal inner core (including the Motorcraft FL-820S) got 2 points. The Champion labs filters that used a plastic inner core got 1 point.
Retainer Spring Design – 3 points
I prefer the coil spring type retainer. I feel it will be more consistent in providing consistent pressure on the filter element and give the best seal between the filter element and base. Filters that use a coil spring retainer got 3 points. All the others (including the FL-820S) got 2 points.
Anti-Drain Back Valve Design – 15 points
I consider this a very important factor for Ford Overhead Cam Engines. It is probably less important for the old OHV engines. If you ahve an OHV engine you might want to drop this factor from 15 to 10 points. I rated the ADBVs based on material and design. The Amsoil EaO11 Filter had the best design (in my opinion) and I gave it 15 points. The FL-820S had the next best design and got 14 points. Most of the other “premium” filters with silicone ADBVs were given 11 or 12 points. The Donaldson P550965 had a ADBV similar in design to the Amsoil EaO11but it was molded from nitrile instead of silicone. Therefore I gave it only 10 points. The filters that used the combination ADB and Relief Valve design (Wal*Mart and STP) got the lowest score of 3 points.
Relief Valve Design – 10 points
This is a hard category for me to score. All the filters I have evaluated, except for the Motorcraft FL-820S, have a dome end relief valve design. The FL-820S relief valve is far more elaborate and expensive than the relief valve design used by any of the other filters. So why does Ford go to all this trouble for a relatively inexpensive filter, while all of the other premium filters, including filters that cost 4 times as much make do with a dome end relief valve? I don’t know the answer. I do believe the base end design is the best (well except for the cheaply made combo valves). Interestingly, several of the other manufacturers admit that the base end design might be required by some manufacturers. It seems to me that Ford, by the design of their OEM Filter, is making this a requirement. I can only assume it is not written into the product specifications, since all of the premium filters are claimed to meet OEM specifications. I gave the FL-820S filter 10 points in this category. The filters with the coil spring loaded dome end filter element relief valves got 5 or 6 points. The Fram filters got 3 and 4 points (the TG2 got 4 because of the screen – I am not sure this is justified). The Bosch filter got 3 because I just don’t like the design. The cheap filters with the combined ADB and relief valves got 2 points. If you don’t think the relief valve design or location is particularly important, you might want to rescore this category.
Media - total of 40 points, broken down into four 10 point sub-categories
Now we come to the most important categories. These are the ones that actually relate to the filter media. I don’t have the means to actually test the media; therefore this is a beauty contest more than an actual performance contest. This is the only way I can rate the . I love to hear a suggestion on a better rating method. Rather than have one overall score for the media, I have broken it down into 4 sub-categories worth 10 points each – media volume, media surface area, filter element construction quality, and filter media quality. Therefore the media represents 40% of the total score. This might not seem like enough since the primary purpose of the oil filter is to filter the oil, but the filters don’t differ greatly in the other categories, so the media categories taken together are the deciding factors.
Media Volume – 10 points
This was a straight forward calculation. The filter with the most total media, the Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 FIlter was awarded 10 points. The other filters were award points based on their total media volume compared to this. The FL-820S got 8 points. The Amsoil EaO11 was only awarded 5 points. I am worried this comparison is not fair to the EaO11 Filter. All of the other filters had media that was either cellulose or cellulose blended with “synthetic” fibers. It may be that the Amsoil media is so different, a direct comparison of volume is irrelevant.
Media Surface Area – 10 points
More surface area equates to higher flow rates and more contaminant holding ability. The Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 FIlter was awarded 10 points in this category since it had the greatest surface area. The other filters were award points based on their total media surface area compared to this. The FL-820S was awarded 6 points in this category. Again, because of the unusual media, I am not sure I am being fair to the Amsoil EaO11 Filter (it scored only 4 points).
Filter Element Construction Quality – 10 points
The Amsoil EaO11 Filter has a very well constructed filter element and I awarded it 10 points. The Donaldson filter element was the same as the Amsoil filter except for the media, so I awarded it 10 points as well. The FL-820S was slightly better made (mostly because of the interface to the ADBV) than the “premium” filters that used metal end caps and was awarded 8 points. All of the other filters that used metal end caps and a glued media seam were awarded 7 points. The Denso filter also was awarded 7 points despite using a metal clip to make the media joint. The Fram filters were awarded 4 points and this was generous given the low quality appearance of the paper end caps and the use of a metal clip to make the media joint. The Wal*Mart and STP filters were awarded 3 points. I just don’t like the poorly bonded fabric end caps.
Filter Media Quality – 10 points
This was strictly my opinion. I liked the Amsoil media and awarded it 10 points. I awarded the FL-820S 8 points. The “premium” filters all got 7 to 9 points. The lowest rated fitler was the Pro-Tec 159 which got 4 points.
Maximum Points Normalized to 100
Filter.Mfg.........Filter.P/Ni......Total.Score.(without.cost)
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford................CM-6731-FL820S..91
Motorcraft..........FL-820S ........81
Motorcraft..........MFL-820 ........79
Purolator...........PL24651 ........79
Denso...............150-1014........79
Wix.................51372...........78
Donaldson...........P550965.........78 [Genuine Aston Martin Filter]
Amsoil..............EAO11...........78
Fleetguard..........LF16002.........75
Mobil.1.............M1-210..........73
K&N.................HP-2010.........73
Bosch...............3410............70
Purolator...........L24651..........69
Fleetguard..........LF3681..........69
Pro-Tec.............159.............66
ProLine.............PPL-24651.......65
Advance.Auto........AA2.............65
C..G..Enterprises...Viper.2.........65
Hastings............LF110...........66
Fram................TG-2............64
Fram................PH-2............52
Wal*Mart............ST2.............49
STP.................S2..............49
AC.Delco............PF1250..........49
Last edited by V12Stealth; Aug 18, 2019 at 11:22 PM. Reason: Formatting
Registered PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 9
From: Usa
Rep Power: 0
Anyone disconnect the battery to perform this? Seems that Aston want us to do that but I found that silly. Never had to do that on any of my cars/ bikes. First time I am working on the 2009 DBS.
I just don't want to deal reprogramming the misfire code and the clocks, etc. However, it is an Aston not an Honda so...a bit nervous not following what Aston's says so
I just don't want to deal reprogramming the misfire code and the clocks, etc. However, it is an Aston not an Honda so...a bit nervous not following what Aston's says so
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 324
From: USA
Rep Power: 35
BTW, one of the best investments I made in my DB9 was a pair of oil filter pliers. No filter wrench will work, but oil filter pliers will do the job and dramatically reduce the stress when you just cant quite get it loose or turn it enough (I have the Channellock version).
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,423
From: So Cal
Rep Power: 261
I get oil and filters for other vehicles at Wally world. Ran across this wrench and has worked for a friend's V12 to remove a stubborn filter. Hyper Tough Auto Adjustable Jaw Grip Wrench, Model 1217
Registered PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 9
From: Usa
Rep Power: 0
Did my oil change on the DBS. Thank god for Zuman to propose the Channellock Oil filter plier, I needed it to loosen the oil filter. It worked like a charm and only $9 more than the harborfreight one but made in US. Can't beat that.
Cleaned the Trottle bodies, cleaned the undertray, changed air filters, check sway bar, brakes. Everything good and finally the car is back together. I clean more then actually do the oil change. No issue on not disconnecting the battery
Thanks guys!
Cleaned the Trottle bodies, cleaned the undertray, changed air filters, check sway bar, brakes. Everything good and finally the car is back together. I clean more then actually do the oil change. No issue on not disconnecting the battery
Thanks guys!
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 44
From: San Diego, CA
Rep Power: 0
You can pull the filter in less than 5 minutes, pull the throttle body connections and spray the filter down with rubbing alcohol in a pressured spray bottle or Maxima Suspension clean, both of these leave no residue and will ensure a good grip on the filter end.
-Put on a pair of Mechanix gloves and turn quickly counterclockwise, keep the filter upright and pull out, put in a ziplock if your worried about spillage, if you drain properly first and pull the filler cap you wont have much oil left in the filter.
-Fill the new filter 2/3 with oil and keep upright as you lower it to down to the assembly, make contact and apply some pressure to contact the threads, this can be done without looking, just feeling, tighten clockwise until your hand gives out, your good to go, once you master this you won't drip a single drop.
-Filter holds half a quart at 2/3 pre filled, so fill 11 quarts and run for 120 seconds than let sit for 5 minutes.
-Check oil on level ground and with the OIL label facing the you at the left fender position.
-Enjoy your ride
*Additional Info
-Run Oil Separators that will keep oil out of the intake manifold, I did a full post with diagrams on how and what to run.
-Only run the best oil in your Aston, Amsoil or Motul are the best oils on the planet.
-Also LiquiMoly Ceratec is incredible as it coats your internals with a liquid ceramic, my uncle runs it in his 3000hp dragster, he says it's unbelievable when they do teardowns monthly they see almost no wear,no seizing/thrown bearing's/pre-mature piston wear/etc..
-Put on a pair of Mechanix gloves and turn quickly counterclockwise, keep the filter upright and pull out, put in a ziplock if your worried about spillage, if you drain properly first and pull the filler cap you wont have much oil left in the filter.
-Fill the new filter 2/3 with oil and keep upright as you lower it to down to the assembly, make contact and apply some pressure to contact the threads, this can be done without looking, just feeling, tighten clockwise until your hand gives out, your good to go, once you master this you won't drip a single drop.
-Filter holds half a quart at 2/3 pre filled, so fill 11 quarts and run for 120 seconds than let sit for 5 minutes.
-Check oil on level ground and with the OIL label facing the you at the left fender position.
-Enjoy your ride
*Additional Info
-Run Oil Separators that will keep oil out of the intake manifold, I did a full post with diagrams on how and what to run.
-Only run the best oil in your Aston, Amsoil or Motul are the best oils on the planet.
-Also LiquiMoly Ceratec is incredible as it coats your internals with a liquid ceramic, my uncle runs it in his 3000hp dragster, he says it's unbelievable when they do teardowns monthly they see almost no wear,no seizing/thrown bearing's/pre-mature piston wear/etc..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
