question about removing rear rotors?
question about removing rear rotors?
Hoping someone can point me to a link with info or can provide some additional info on removing the rear brake rotors?
Car has 30K miles and I'm installing my EBC pads but before I do I either want to clean up the original rotors or replace with new. I have the calipers off (emergency and brake) and the two countersunk retaining screws. The rotor seems to be on the hub very tight. I don't believe the hub/axle nut needs to be removed from images of replacement rotors as the rotor appears to slide over the flange that has the axle nut in the center of it.
Note: I've done brakes on my previous cars but a bit nervous about applying any force until I know exactly what's retaining the rotor on the V8V.
Thanks
Car has 30K miles and I'm installing my EBC pads but before I do I either want to clean up the original rotors or replace with new. I have the calipers off (emergency and brake) and the two countersunk retaining screws. The rotor seems to be on the hub very tight. I don't believe the hub/axle nut needs to be removed from images of replacement rotors as the rotor appears to slide over the flange that has the axle nut in the center of it.
Note: I've done brakes on my previous cars but a bit nervous about applying any force until I know exactly what's retaining the rotor on the V8V.
Thanks
I don't believe there's a set screw or anything like that on them, but I could be wrong. Might need a little thwacking with a rubber mallet. If you're worried about the rotor, drape a towel over it to protect it and start off with some gentle-ish taps on the backside of the rotor. Might just need a few taps to get it loose.
Once you have the calipers off , remove the set screws and you will need to use a hammer to break it loose . Use anti-seize and clean all the corrosion off before rebuild . It will be much easier next time .
As stated, there is no physical retention for the rotors once you remove the retaining screws. Corrosion and grime tends to fuse them to the hub, so use a dead-blow hammer if you plan to reuse the rotors. If you aren't familiar with a dead-blow hammer, it looks like a rubber mallet but has lead shot inside of it and helps with things of this nature without damaging the surface of the media you are working with. A hammer can dent the rotor surface or if you hit it hard enough, it can crack the rotor.
Thanks for confirming everything I needed to remove is already done. I don't have a lot of tools here in Plano so I'll go out this morning and pickup a new dead-blow hammer and give it a try.
If you have a Harbor Freight close by, they have them pretty cheap. You can also try to squirt some "Deep Creep" or WD40 from behind the rotor to seep in. If you hit the outer rim of the rotor around the edge, the leverage will help pry it off. It may only take a small amount of force. But be prepared to give it a wallup if not! I always put a lug nut on one of the studs so the rotor doesn't fly off. Let's just say I may have knowledge of someone (maybe me, maybe not) doing this very procedure on a Lotus Esprit and ending up with several stitches from the projective rotor!
Dead-blow hammer wasn't enough with cramped space. Used small 3lb hammer and plywood to protect rotor got them off.
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Yes sir! I have broken dead blow hammers before pulling discs, but they are cheap and never want to beat on my rotors on either car with a hammer, no matter how much padding I have. Glad you managed to separate them!
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