V8V Header Install Questions
#1
V8V Header Install Questions
I'm finally getting around to installing my headers and HFC. Searched the forum, found a couple answers, but for those that have done this:
1. On the V8V, is it necessary or recommended to drop the front subframe to install the headers? I found a thread on the V12 cars that says it is necessary, haven't found the answer on the V8
2. Are there any special tools necessary to accomplish the install?
Just looking for someone with experience who might prevent us from doing something wrong. I did download the shop manual. Additionally, the person doing the actual install is an experienced mechanic who maintains and builds race cars, and is a former multi-manufacturer master tech.
Thanks
1. On the V8V, is it necessary or recommended to drop the front subframe to install the headers? I found a thread on the V12 cars that says it is necessary, haven't found the answer on the V8
2. Are there any special tools necessary to accomplish the install?
Just looking for someone with experience who might prevent us from doing something wrong. I did download the shop manual. Additionally, the person doing the actual install is an experienced mechanic who maintains and builds race cars, and is a former multi-manufacturer master tech.
Thanks
#4
I've done it, took a 2012 V8V (newer style exhaust) and installed headers + cats, which coverts it back to the older style placement.
You can get the LHS manifold out but the RHS isn't going to happen with the subframe in there..I mean somewhere out the I'm sure he/she pulled out the RHS with the subframe in but I bet there not bragging about how much time they saved..the problem is the starter being in the way. To remove a starter the engine mount is blocking, and to remove the engine mount the subframe is coming off..
You can get the LHS manifold out but the RHS isn't going to happen with the subframe in there..I mean somewhere out the I'm sure he/she pulled out the RHS with the subframe in but I bet there not bragging about how much time they saved..the problem is the starter being in the way. To remove a starter the engine mount is blocking, and to remove the engine mount the subframe is coming off..
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Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
Last edited by Irish07@VelocityAP; 05-22-2015 at 08:29 PM.
#5
Might be a lamo question or thought, but can you get the header on the RHS with the subframe in place? If so you might consider cutting the old manifold into smaller pieces and taking them out. Just a thought and it might be lame like I said.
#6
Unless you have a plasma cutter, I don't see you having any space to fit wtv saw/cutter to cut out the OE manifold.. Problem isn't space of routing the manifold in/out.. It's space to get your 13mm socket to release the manifold from over the starter area
#7
Sorry to not respond earlier, been out of town racing cars a lot lately.
Anyway, I can report it is POSSIBLE to replace the headers without dropping the subframe. This is certainly not a contradiction to what Irish said. I had the help of a very competent mechanic. However it took about 3 hours of maneuvering (and salty language) to accomplish the difficult side. Might be easier to do it the other way. Certainly not a DIY for the average person.
Anyway, I can report it is POSSIBLE to replace the headers without dropping the subframe. This is certainly not a contradiction to what Irish said. I had the help of a very competent mechanic. However it took about 3 hours of maneuvering (and salty language) to accomplish the difficult side. Might be easier to do it the other way. Certainly not a DIY for the average person.
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#9
I did the headers and high flow cats. I purchased an E Tune from Stuart but haven't had time to install it yet. My guess is to fully realize the hardware mods, the software needs done.
Is it louder, definitely, though i think mostly thats because of the cats. I actually put the fuse back in the exhaust. I like loud exhausts and I really wish it was somewhere between fuse in, and fuse out. At cruise speed with the fuse in, it's hardly noticeably louder than stock. However above 3800-4000rpm when the valve opens, wow!
I'm also considering the new X pipe Stuart has, as the sound is also less sophisticated. Pretty sure the X pipe would even it out.
Was it worth it, to me absolutely. In the end, I feel like I'll have near the same performance as the 4.7, with more sound. That's what I was looking for.
Is it louder, definitely, though i think mostly thats because of the cats. I actually put the fuse back in the exhaust. I like loud exhausts and I really wish it was somewhere between fuse in, and fuse out. At cruise speed with the fuse in, it's hardly noticeably louder than stock. However above 3800-4000rpm when the valve opens, wow!
I'm also considering the new X pipe Stuart has, as the sound is also less sophisticated. Pretty sure the X pipe would even it out.
Was it worth it, to me absolutely. In the end, I feel like I'll have near the same performance as the 4.7, with more sound. That's what I was looking for.
Last edited by bluebarchetta; 05-26-2015 at 12:37 PM.
#10
I did a whole front to back kit.. Client originally ordered the quiet muffler.. It was ok but was not at all louder than my 5.0 with an exhaust. Client heard the difference and wanted it just as loud. So we ordered think it was the SuperSport muffler from Stuart, and that thing was loud!! Client thought is was a tad on the loud side also, he took it for the weekend and said he LOVES IT!! The sound changed and toned down a bit... Power wise, I felt the difference in the butt dyno, this car was also tuned and was a 2012 V8 ASM
#11
I did the headers and high flow cats. I purchased an E Tune from Stuart but haven't had time to install it yet. My guess is to fully realize the hardware mods, the software needs done.
Is it louder, definitely, though i think mostly thats because of the cats. I actually put the fuse back in the exhaust. I like loud exhausts and I really wish it was somewhere between fuse in, and fuse out. At cruise speed with the fuse in, it's hardly noticeably louder than stock. However above 3800-4000rpm when the valve opens, wow!
I'm also considering the new X pipe Stuart has, as the sound is also less sophisticated. Pretty sure the X pipe would even it out.
Was it worth it, to me absolutely. In the end, I feel like I'll have near the same performance as the 4.7, with more sound. That's what I was looking for.
Is it louder, definitely, though i think mostly thats because of the cats. I actually put the fuse back in the exhaust. I like loud exhausts and I really wish it was somewhere between fuse in, and fuse out. At cruise speed with the fuse in, it's hardly noticeably louder than stock. However above 3800-4000rpm when the valve opens, wow!
I'm also considering the new X pipe Stuart has, as the sound is also less sophisticated. Pretty sure the X pipe would even it out.
Was it worth it, to me absolutely. In the end, I feel like I'll have near the same performance as the 4.7, with more sound. That's what I was looking for.
Last edited by telum01; 05-26-2015 at 06:36 PM.
#13
X-pipes will significantly quiet down the exhaust as it allows thw pulses to cancel each other out. It will also smoothen out the sound to make it sound more sophisticated and exotic.
X-pipe should also add a few HP if done properly.
X-pipe should also add a few HP if done properly.
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