I was just up inspecting the underside of my car and was pleasantly surprised that last winter did nothing, it's super clean, the exhaust toning a bit more of course, but the best news was the oil seep it had from the timing cover is bone dry. The car just needed to be driven.

But I took my scale and weighed the new 4.7 components.

Flywheel - 15lb 14.5oz
Disc - 5lb 2oz
Plate - 16lb 2oz
I've not even heard of it, I asked the tech when I was there and he said he knew of it for starting issues but nothing about stalling. Can you elaborate?

Just like this is the first I'm hearing of these
gas pedal, clutch pedal switch, throttle body,

Any information would help, and this just proves we definitely need a sticky thread that pulls all these known causes into one database.

 

It was just an question that I had, as there are many electronic/electric components that could could cause stalling.

If the docking station/key can fail in starting situations, why can't if fail in operating situations? Can a momentary position fault cause a stall?

As an aside, has the stalling always happened with the same key, provided you have more than one?

 

Mine has never stalled anytime but off gas, if it was the dock it would stall driving at 60mph or any other random time. Not that I'm the expert but I don't see it as being the issue. I only use my crystal key, the battery in the valet has been long dead.

 

Hypothetically, there should be a "logic gate" that would prevent you from engaging the starter above a certain speed/engine rpm, which would effectively "remove" the docking station from the circuit while the vehicle is "at speed".
Once the (unknown by me) logic parameters have been satisfied, an engine restart could be possible, or a fault in the docking station/key presents itself at low speeds or in an "off gas" situation.

Again, I'm just offering an alternate scenario that may or may not be contributing to your stalling issue.

 

It has stalled over 30 off gas, I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure if I pull the key at 60 it's going to shut off, I've just never tried

I appreciate any and all help of course.

 

30 MPH is not "low speed" so that additional information is important.
However, can you remember what gear you were in when that happened?
Coasting down in 4th, 5th or 6th might have the engine rpm low enough at 30 mph to satisfy the unknown logic conditions for the docking station.

For my information, what does the owners manual tell you to do if you have the "runaway" engine problem that plagued certain Toyota models in the past.
My MY 2007 has the traditional key ignition switch, so i can just move the key back one position to kill the ignition.

 

I was clutch in downshifting into 2nd when I turned in and realized the steering was dead and car had stalled.

I must admit I've never studied the manual, I got about halfway thru before the car was delivered and never picked it up again.

 

FYI, I had the VAP clutch installed well over two years ago in my '07 Vantage, 6MT, soon after Tim U. had relocated to the then Walnut Creek AM dealership.
I had considered having the Bamford Rose package installed at their Phoenix "dealer", as my sister lived in Phoenix at the time and would have provided a convenient place to stay while the modifications were made.
The downside to making that choice was if any problem arose, I would have about a 8 hour drive, one way, to have my concerns addressed.
Mike recently alluded to the problem(s) he had with supporting his non-UK affiliates and in 20/20 hindsight it appears I made the correct decision to have the VAP installation done locally, rather than the BR package in Phoenix.
I believe I was one of the early customers that experienced the "noise" at idle associated with the change of the "rotating mass" of the new flywheel/clutch combination.
In all fairness, Stuart worked with me to provide a "tune" that increased the engine idle speed to "mitigate" the vibrational/harmonic resonance noise that my drive line experienced.
I did change the differential fluid to a higher viscosity, which had no effect, and I immediately went back to the AM recommended fluid.
We did discuss the option of a installing a flywheel with more mass (one machined without the outer holes to reduce weight), but I was unwilling to pay for, out of my pocket, the additional labor hours required to replace the flywheel.
In all fairness, I've not experienced the engine "dying" before, or as a result of changing to the VAP clutch/flywheel package.
As a retired mechanical engineer, I have found this thread very interesting and am looking forward to the resolution of the problem and thankful that I'm not absorbing the costs associated with determining the underlying problem with the engine dying under certain conditions.
I hope my contributions to the thread will help those directly involved with a disturbing performance problem.

 

Sorry if this has been addressed, but can the automatic cars be upgraded to the AMR twin disk clutch through authorized dealer?

 

Apparently not.

 

Theoretically it should be possible but it looks like AM will not do it.

 

as the one who resurrected this thread...i started by asking about the AMR clutch because my dealer did quote me a price to install the AMR clutch in my ASM 09 Vantage.

i will follow back up and see if that has changed.

 

It pays to pay attention.... The difference between the VAP and AMR clutch packages is now evident....

 

I'm more confused than ever... seems like lots of 'factual' opinions...

i guess I'm going to stick with a factory approved set up if i can. I'm not looking for the maximum performance but perhaps improved performance of i can for a reasonable increase in cost.

 

I asked an AM dealer in the region and they said that the AMR clutch is not for ASM cars. I would be interested to hear if your dealer confirms otherwise.