Charging port in trunk
#1
Charging port in trunk
So, I have a dumb question. I keep my 2015 Vantage GT on a trickle charge during the winter. I'm currently plugging it in to the charging port in between the seats, keeping the passenger side window cracked to let the cable out. I know there's a port in the trunk for this purpose, but if I plug it in there, I either have to close the trunk lid over the cable, kinking it (and presumably eventually ruining the cable), or leave the trunk lid slightly open to avoid crushing the cable, in which case the trunk light remains on, thus defeating the whole purpose.
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
#2
You will not crush the cable with the hatch closed on it. There is plenty of room with the squishy seal, same with the door seal. You can run the cord out of the bottom and keep the windows closed.
#3
On my '07 I use an alligator clip on the + terminal and - bump on the engine block under the hood. The hood stays down but not completely closed. I found that if I leave the hood up, the struts get sticky in that position. I made a cigarette lighter adapter but I don't want to permanently deform my weatherstripping so I don't use it.
Last edited by blue2000s; 04-03-2018 at 03:14 PM.
#4
Well, maybe, but then as blue2000s says, you run the risk of permanently deforming the seal, which could eventually lead to leaks...
#5
On my '07 I use an alligator clip on the + terminal and - bump on the engine block under the hood. The hood stays down but not completely closed. I found that if I leave the hood up, the struts get sticky in that position. I made a cigarette lighter adapter but I don't want to permanently deform my weatherstripping so I don't use it.
#6
I use the trunk port.
The light eventually turns itself off.
To assist with routing the cable, I place a MF towel adequately folded over the latch mechanism, and run the cord through the "folds" if the towel to ensure the paint doesn't have the cord rubbing against it.
This protects the seals, and the paint work.
Not a fan of anything under hood due to tendency of those seals to foul easier and look ugly when the hood is closed :-)
The light eventually turns itself off.
To assist with routing the cable, I place a MF towel adequately folded over the latch mechanism, and run the cord through the "folds" if the towel to ensure the paint doesn't have the cord rubbing against it.
This protects the seals, and the paint work.
Not a fan of anything under hood due to tendency of those seals to foul easier and look ugly when the hood is closed :-)
#7
I don't close the hood. There's no reason to do so.
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#8
I use the trunk port.
The light eventually turns itself off.
To assist with routing the cable, I place a MF towel adequately folded over the latch mechanism, and run the cord through the "folds" if the towel to ensure the paint doesn't have the cord rubbing against it.
This protects the seals, and the paint work.
Not a fan of anything under hood due to tendency of those seals to foul easier and look ugly when the hood is closed :-)
The light eventually turns itself off.
To assist with routing the cable, I place a MF towel adequately folded over the latch mechanism, and run the cord through the "folds" if the towel to ensure the paint doesn't have the cord rubbing against it.
This protects the seals, and the paint work.
Not a fan of anything under hood due to tendency of those seals to foul easier and look ugly when the hood is closed :-)
#9
There are 2 detent/latch positions on my 2007's rear hatch. You can press down lightly to engage the first position and it will be latched and not pinch the cable. I put a microfiber towel on the rear bumper to keep the cable from scratching it. You can also lock the car with the hatch in the upper position.
#10
I use the trunk port.
The light eventually turns itself off.
To assist with routing the cable, I place a MF towel adequately folded over the latch mechanism, and run the cord through the "folds" if the towel to ensure the paint doesn't have the cord rubbing against it.
This protects the seals, and the paint work.
Not a fan of anything under hood due to tendency of those seals to foul easier and look ugly when the hood is closed :-)
The light eventually turns itself off.
To assist with routing the cable, I place a MF towel adequately folded over the latch mechanism, and run the cord through the "folds" if the towel to ensure the paint doesn't have the cord rubbing against it.
This protects the seals, and the paint work.
Not a fan of anything under hood due to tendency of those seals to foul easier and look ugly when the hood is closed :-)
#11
The trunk charging point works great. You can close the trunk because whatever indent you leave in the seal won't matter. Water will not leak backwards and upwards through it. But, as has been mentioned already, the trunk light turns off after 10 minutes or so, so you can leave the trunk lid ajar. That's what I've done with my DBS for 5 1/2 months every year for 6 years (with a satin indoor cover keeping it comfortable, of course ).
#14
There are 2 detent/latch positions on my 2007's rear hatch. You can press down lightly to engage the first position and it will be latched and not pinch the cable. I put a microfiber towel on the rear bumper to keep the cable from scratching it. You can also lock the car with the hatch in the upper position.
#15
As a former FL resident now in the Midwest, and currently looking out my window at work at 25 degree weather, 30 mph winds, as well as some snow and ice on the ground, I officially hate you.