2010 v8 vantage./ my passenger led array is not working (not sure if this is the correct name for it; i enclose 2 pics); headlights fine including daytime running lights, low and high beams both sides. ; drivers led array ok. the entire LED string is out vs individual led's. happened after driving through a heavy rain storm. Not sure where to go with this. Any ideas appreciated.

passenger led array not working


passenger led array not working

1. there does not seem to be a specific fuse for the led array or is there?
2. can one access the wiring for this array via the wheel well panel used to service the headlights?

I dont even mind if I can 'off' the drivers side as long as the thing is symetrical.

 

thanks for your response. the whole headlight assembly needs replacing? Ouch!. can I disconnect the led array on the other side to provide symmetry?
btw. appreciate your videos. very helpful. going to do my first oil change this fall. Paul

 

 

 

 

thanks for the response. Yes i live in Canada also, here in Toronto. Looking at options including a diy in the winter/off-season. how do you find the exact part number

 

Has anyone figured out where these boards are made/assembled? The right rear tail light in my V8V has a similar failure, and it would be nice to source a replacement or repair rather than replacing the entire light assembly. The plastic shell parts are manufactured by Magna in Belville, Ontario, but I don't know if they are assembled there or not.

 

 

I've dug into the rear circuit boards quite a bit. I was not able to fix the ones on mine, and ended up designing a new one that works well. I'm somewhat hesitant though to offer the boards further due to liability concerns.....

For the front light, there was a thread at one time where someone found that the failure was a solder joint. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...rn-signal.html

Matt

 

 

Definitely sounds like a design flaw. I have the same issue (and same side) on my 2010 Vantage. The amber turn signal lights still work, though not the white ones. I have a feeling that i's cause be a connection issue since it started working for a couple months then stopped again. I was planning on waiting till fall to pull the headlight and see if I can fix it my self before shelling out a bunch $$$ to replace it.

 

My "unmolested" headlights were allowing moisture to penetrate before I first opened them to add halos. Fortunately the moisture had not yet caused any internal damage but left uncorrected it would only be a matter of time/frequency before I had similar failure. Having now had these headlights apart several times for modification/rework my opinion is that inconsistency in the factory applied rubber sealant that seals the entire lens is primarily responsible for the original penetration of moisture. There is a black insert that is removed in the photo below so you can see the circuit board. Moisture penetrating the headlight housing stays trapped behind this insert. - It has no way to drain. Eventually it will evaporate but till it does it will cause condensation on the lens during rapid temp changes - it can also damage the board at the lower edge. The same sealant is also used to seal a section of the back black housing together. I dismantled the entire headlight and replaced this "intermittent" factory applied black sealant with a consistent bead of clear silicone and it's actually fun now to wash the car and hold the water hose over the hood and lights without fear.

In regard to the OP's issues, I would remove the lens and inspect the Philips PC board shown below for moisture. If you are adept at inspecting you can look for cracks in the solder - look also for white corrosion and or rust spots (on both sides - but mainly on the back). The board has two connectors (circled in red) and is held in place by two 6mm hex screws (circled in yellow). If a crack or poor joint is visible you can re-flow the solder or if unsure take the board to an electronics specialist for inspection and possible repair.

Edit: BTW - behind this insert is the perfect spot to place two desiccant pouches as an added safeguard against any atmospheric moisture damage to the board. (if you are disassembling to replace the poor black factory rubber seal)

Edit #2: Well the desiccant pouches did nothing but retain accumulated moisture inside the headlight housing. I ended up having to allow the housing to "breathe". So far (6 months and several rain soaked drives and carefree washes) the condensation issue seems to be resolved. See here for the fix:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4740401&postcount=20



PCB Board inside AM headlight - BMW-North

 

You've hit the nail right on the head, BMW-North. You'd think that Magna would be a bit generous with the sealant when assembling a $1,200.00 tail light assembly, but.....Nope! When I disassembled my right rear taillight with moisture-induced damage, you could see where the tiny little bead of sealant applied to the base didn't even touch the red lens half in some places. I put a thick band of 'insurance' sealant all around the seam in both my replacement assy, and the left-hand original. The poor seal problem is exacerbated by the fact that the mounting studs that protrude from the back of the light assemblies can exert sufficient force on the plastic bases to actually twist them out of shape if they are over-tightened in an attempt to adjust the alignment and fit of the lights into the surrounding bodywork. Dumb, dumb, dumb!

 

thanks for your response. i am in the process of pulling the headlight

 

I pulled my light and tried various things with the board and couldn't fix it long term... Pulling that light is not a fun project. I have a recurring Ebay search pop up anytime someone posts a new used headlight... We just need the board and I hate to spend $800+ for that... Never mind the 4+hrs of labor. I really hope someone comes up with an aftermarket option. Some day they will all fail.

Good luck with the work...