Coatings for Car
Okay I'm learning a lot. So follow up questions, if you all don't mind sharing:
1. Say I clay the car and need to polish afterward, can I hand polish or are you only considering polishing by using a random orbital (or rotary) buffer?
2. What's a great product for protecting and reviving our black trim?
3. What's a great product for restoring our chrome trim pieces (or any plastic chrome pieces on other cars)?
1. Say I clay the car and need to polish afterward, can I hand polish or are you only considering polishing by using a random orbital (or rotary) buffer?
2. What's a great product for protecting and reviving our black trim?
3. What's a great product for restoring our chrome trim pieces (or any plastic chrome pieces on other cars)?
1. Polishing by hand does NOTHING. Polishing by a Random Orbital Polisher (Rupes, Flex, LC, etc...) is the only way to get anything done
2. 22ple Trim and plastic restorer/coating; Most all coatings made for plastic trim will bring it back to black and then protect it for years to come in the same black color. This is the one I use for doing that work. Works perfect. Anything other than a coating made for plastic you will not only have to apply every few months, but also it can or could make it greasy and attract dirt.
4. Not sure on the chrome plated pieces what your dealing with???? A metal polisher will work, but also a polish made for paint will also.
Another dumb question along these line:
How do I know if the car has been coated? I still have nice beading after six months - all I have done is hose off the dust/debris. I have not applied any wax. One I used high pressure spray to remove debris/dirt. Mostly I just use a bucket. Using two buckets, I washed in with just water (no soap) and then rinsed microfiber in another bucket. I didn't get all the dirt off, on the sides, but it still looks good, and beads. I really need to clean the wheels.
How do I know if the car has been coated? I still have nice beading after six months - all I have done is hose off the dust/debris. I have not applied any wax. One I used high pressure spray to remove debris/dirt. Mostly I just use a bucket. Using two buckets, I washed in with just water (no soap) and then rinsed microfiber in another bucket. I didn't get all the dirt off, on the sides, but it still looks good, and beads. I really need to clean the wheels.
Washing a car with water and a MF cloth. All you are doing is wiping dirt into the paint and scratching the surface. You put those swirls into the paint. Basically ruining the finish. No other way around it. As said below, proper PH neutral wash soap (Chemical Guys Maxi Suds is the best deal, Amazon) the soap pulls the dirt off the paint and allows it to be washed off. However, the ONLY way to totally, or well about 90%, prevent swirls is to use ONE MF towel per panel with wash soap. Work from the top down and in straight lines, not circles. If the panel is dirty, then flip the towel working between sections on that panel. Then DO NOT use that towel again on the vehicle until its washed and inspected for debris.
Washing a vehicle inputs around 75% of swirls, drying of a vehicle with a mf towel inputs around 25% of the swirls. SO only way to prevent that is wash as above, then dry with a blower where you don't touch the vehicle with a towel drying it. If you do, you are micro marring the finish. Easily done, just a process. Plus a blower will get residual water out of cracks, handles etc....
Don't touch the vehicle with fingers, hands, towels unless your washing it. They all will Marr the surface, including using spray wax or spray si02 coating with a soft mf towel. Point is, don't touch it unless you need to like removing bird poo ASAP.
Interesting fact I learned about coatings this week. Coatings have always been susceptible to water splitting which can imprint on the surface and spot it. Those water spots will spot on the clear coat the same. Water spotting comes from chemicals in the droplet. The droplet bead evaporates and leaves the chemical residue which then etches on the surface. Water spot removers will not take it off unless its very soon after the incident. If its been a few days then only polishing the surface will remove the spot. Same for bird poo. Also another unknown fact, polllen in the spring does not hurt the surface. BUT..... if it drizzles or lightly rains on the surface it activates chemicals in the pollen which then will start etching the surface. So don't let water with pollen dry on the surface if it can be helped.
Ceramic/glass coatings (they are the same) will not prevent any type of scratches. None of them do. They do help against it, but don't stop it. Its just a thin barrier.
Also, if you can buy a product at Walmart or Autozone, it most likely is a watered down version of a pro product which you could spend not much more online and use. Be smart with products you use.
Soap is a surfactant designed to safely remove and suspend dirt, and to add lubrication between the mitt and paint. Water alone does not do this, and you risk adding swirl marks using the method you described.
If the car is seldom used and/or washed, just about anything can last a long time...6 months really isn’t that long in the grand scheme of things. Obviously there are a lot of factors that affect this though (whether the car is stored indoors/outdoors and how much sun it sees are big ones).
Regarding the identification of what’s on the paint (coated vs not coated), the only way I know of would be to try removing it with an IPA (isopropyl alcohol solution like CarPro Eraser designed to remove polish residue), wax and grease remover, or maybe Dawn dishwashing soap. Those products shouldn’t affect a heathy coating, but will remove most waxes and sealants.
If the car is seldom used and/or washed, just about anything can last a long time...6 months really isn’t that long in the grand scheme of things. Obviously there are a lot of factors that affect this though (whether the car is stored indoors/outdoors and how much sun it sees are big ones).
Regarding the identification of what’s on the paint (coated vs not coated), the only way I know of would be to try removing it with an IPA (isopropyl alcohol solution like CarPro Eraser designed to remove polish residue), wax and grease remover, or maybe Dawn dishwashing soap. Those products shouldn’t affect a heathy coating, but will remove most waxes and sealants.
Absolutely correct. Add one thing for the coatings and or/PPF surfaces. Coatings need rejuvenation at least once per 4 months to maintain their effectiveness. A product like CarPro Reload or Kamikazee Overcoat can be used easily and do that. PPF surfaces degrade over time and can be rejuvenated by a light polish or Gyeon PPF Renew product. But that is not easy to do.
Hope this helps
I never asked your opinion on interiors. Do you have a favorite leather cleaner and conditioner too?
I have chrome trim around my windows on my 2005 DB9. It's in good condition right now, but on my other cars (and a neighbor's car) things like chrome front grills on trucks get a bunch of little spots on them and I wanted to know the best way to restore those to their shiny beginnings.
I never asked your opinion on interiors. Do you have a favorite leather cleaner and conditioner too?
I never asked your opinion on interiors. Do you have a favorite leather cleaner and conditioner too?
Likely a light polish by hand would clean up the chrome. But if its real chrome, a metal chrome polish is the ticket.
Leather is somewhat a choice - I use AMMO Mousse and love it. I know it works and is a good product. Lexol is not a good product and if I remember correctly from reviews or tests it actually dries out leather.
Cleaner---- AMMO Lather on all surfaces. I trust it. There are tons out there that are fine, but one bottle lasts a long time so don't mind the expense and I know it works perfect and won't ruin any of the interior bits.
Hope that helps
New member here. Great post, a lot of useful information. Any suggestions on how to remove small rubs/scratches on the satin bumper/rocker trim on my new Vantage? Also, it appears to be made of fiberglass, is that correct?
Its likely FRP but as long as a surface is painted with clearcoat; polishing is the same regardless where it is on the vehicle. SO if you can take your finger nail and go across a scratch and you can feel it, then the scratch is likely too deep to fix by a compound and polish.
DOING anything by hand is not really going to accomplish much with polishing or compounding. You need a machine to do that (Dual Action polisher) such as a Rupes/Lake Country/Flex. That is the only way.
Hope that helps
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