Ok Folks, I have a P1585 code.... I also was getting a P1233 code but I have previously changed both pumps this weekend. I swapped the Plugs on the FPCM and no movement of error to other bank. I remove 1 FPCM plug at a time and I can hear each pump run when I cycle the key. I have proper pressure in each rail. the P1585 just keeps on no matter what... When you turn the key the Throttle Bodies kinda shimmer and shake as they move and monitor that movement as feedback on the self test to the ECM's.... I swapped the left throttle body to the right and back and the right throttle body NEVER moves when you turn on the key or press the peddle. I then removed both plugs from Fuel Pump Controllers and turned the key on to see if the fuel test was being run before the throttle body test and the left throttle body continues to work no matter what I do to the fuel systems. this makes sense to me since that P1585 code even once clears comes right back no matter what... Originally I thought I had a bad pump so I just finished changing them. no change to symptom.... IF I let the car run in and get good and got, and cycle the key and restart it a few times after a good warmup period it will then start working... so I believe it is engine or ECM heat related... or a connection somewhere...

What I am trying to get information on is a test procedure, or sequence. So why would it keep setting code P1233 on that same bank? does the PCM shut down that bank if it senses the throttle body isn't working? ( I assume it would) then it turns off that fuel pump??? I assume it might, which then sets the P1233 code? anyone know how these self tests orders are?

If I know both pumps, both FPCM and Both Throttle Bodies are good, where do I turn from here? HELP!

 

So i just read on a DB9 thread where the throttle pedal fixes from other random ish issues... but the key thing I saw on that thread was it was coding a P1233 code.... after extensive troubleshooting it turned out to the be throttle pedal... it was occasionally kicking on a P1585 code... I looked up the part number 1R12-382239-AD and see it does indeed have 2 pots, one for each PTEC, which then talk to each other. I suspect mine is bad. My back won't allow be to circus freak show contort under the dash to get to the plugs but hopefully my son will be able to swap the plugs and or just remove the 3 nuts or bolts. Interestingly enough, there is a recall on 02-05 vanquish on this part for a different reason...

https://www.autoblog.com/es-us/buy/2003-Aston+Martin-Vanquish/recalls/

It is all plastic, and FORD plastic at that lol....I'm really leaning toward this pedal being bad... anyone have a bad one? or have to replace one for other symptoms? advice?

 

You're much more likely to get help on the amoc.org forum for the gen 1 Vanquish -- it's a very active and informed group.

 

You’ve got a bad PTEC. When it self heats by leaving the ignition on, the car will run on all 12. Until the PTEC warms up, you get the performance limited message. It appears to always be the right hand bank that fails because of high voltages induced into the RH bank wiring from the AC system clutching in and out.

There are no replacement PTECs available from Aston at this time. Several of us owners have this issue and it is being worked diligently by the AMOC Vanquish group. The solution is near regarding replacement components to replace the failed one and necessary programming of the failed IC. This problem has been known for at least a couple years and has caused a number of Vanqs to be out of commission (mine for 1-1/2 years).

In the next few months, we should be able to ship a bad PTEC to the UK for repair, along with being able to buy a properly shielded harness that separates out the high voltage wires from the low voltage signals going to the RH bank PTEC. Price for the PTEC repair should be much less than the replacement price of the unit (if it was available). Don’t know about the improved harness.

 

This thread has me looking at tantulum capacitors to put on the power leads at the ecms. If nothing else I am going to out a scope on it and take a look.

Really appreciate the detail and insight!

 

I was thinking the same thing - either that or MOVs to damp out the spikes. That would be a simple and cheap fix (if it works). I would be curious to see the O-scope trace.

 

MOV or Metal Oxide Varistors are a device like a diode but are bidirectional. It damps out excessive voltage spikes.

Tantalum capacitors are a type of electrolytic capacitor - they are designed to level out surges. Electrolytic capacitors can age out and fail.

 

Tantalum caps are bad news. Lots of failures.

 

Hello XJRS, I'm bring this thread back to life a little in the hopes that you might be able to help me (and maybe others). Was there ever a solution found to the PTEC issue; either a repair or replacement? I have been digging here, on AMOC and Astonowners (maybe I am not smart enough to own one of these beautiful cars, but time is also very limited for me. :-) .

In any case, I purchased my car, looked good ran great, drove it 250 miles home without issue. Three days later I went to start it and got the Restricted Performance error. After lots of research and testing (every fuse, relay, doing the door lock re-learn etc) I stumbled on this article, and it appears to identify my exact situation; same error codes and once warm the car fires on all 12 cylinders!

My questions in addition to the above regarding a 'fix' are;
1. Is there a way to tell if this was a pre-existing condition and I was 'had' by the dealer?. I have read a little about forensic analysis of the ecu and believe there should be a way, but i don't know how? Has anyone done this, or could recommend someone or a way to do this?
2. How many times will the car start and run correctly using the above strategy (warming the PTECs), I understand its not a clear science.

Thanks in advance. My profile is set so i can receive e-mails from members, if that is a preferred method.

I am new to AML ownership, having just purchased a Gen 1 Vanquish. and i believe i may have been duped.

 

Hello, my name is George and I recently bought a 1st generation AM Vanquish... which has transmission problems and this problem. If you look for these errors (PTEC) you will quickly come to this diagnosis... it Here we talk about repairing the part and also learning the key code at the same time. Maybe someone can email me the information on how and where I can have the part repaired. Thank you in advance and greetings from Austria
George

 

Congratulations to the group that took this on and now has a solution for the owners. I am (as I am sure others are as well) really impressed with the persistence and generosity exhibited here.

 

Absolutely generosity!!!

 

I have a 2002 vanquish at the moment. It has a misfire code for bank 1 cylinder 5. I did everything for it, spark plugs, coils, injectors, intake manifold gaskets, breather hoses. the misfire code would come back after about 10 min of driving. In the end I swapped the ECU’s from bank to bank and the misfire moved to bank 2 sensor 3. My guess is that it needs an Ecu but it is difficult to find anyone that repairs them. If anyone knows anything that would be appreciated.

 

Try reaching out to the folks at astonowners . com. Great resource for NP Vanquish and they know about repairing the ECU.

 

Sounds like a coil driver ckt failure. That should be an easy repair. Contact above group for repair help.