V8V AC Compressor replacement Guide
#1
V8V AC Compressor replacement Guide
Hello everyone, I thought I would share with you my experience in replacing the AC compressor. I am no mechanic but I do know the basics of a car. I believe that in order to truly appreciate your car, you need to get to know it from inside(wait that applies to humans as well )
This is for your educational purposes and if you know what you are doing and are comfortable, This is a very easy job.
Background: My 2007 AM V8V had the A/C compressor clutch burn out, After checking the electricals, I was confident that the issue was in the electromagnet in the clutch which caused a short and burnt out eventually. That being said, I was not able to find the clutch itself for the compressor so instead of trying to source a part and waiting without enjoying the summer, I found a California vendor who sells refurbished units. I got one for $650 and decided to "crack on" with it myself.
Sorry I did not take any pictures, My hands were super dirty as I like to work without gloves to be able to feel using my fingers.
Note: Make sure you have the old refrigerant properly evacuated by a reputed shop and at the same time check for leaks.(I had them check mine for leaks and didn't find any, so i had them add PAG-46 back to bring the pressure to 0PSI. Idea was to eliminate any chance of moisture being sucked back in when i unhooked the compressor lines)
Time taken: 5 hours (I took the opportunity to replace the FEAD belt and refresh the brake fluid)
Tools Needed: (Going off memory)
Flat head screwdriver
1/4 breaker bar/ accessory belt remover tool
size 6/8(Cant remember) and 10 sockets, Box wrenches
T35 bit for Radiator cover and Wheel well liner
Jack, Jack stands
stubby ratchet that fits the size 8 socket
Extra long extensions for the Size 10 Socket
Rags/Shop towels
Torque wrench
Lug nut sockets
I also took this opportunity to replace the FEAD belt, not that difficult once you have the belt already off.
Procedure:
It is imperative that you have the refrigerant lines evacuated, before you begin, The refrigerant is harmful to the environment as well as to humans.
The A/C compressor is located on the side of the engine accessible only from the bottom. It is on the driver's side here in the US so you can trace it directly under the Cylinder head for Piston 5.
1) Remove the radiator cover to remove the "Y" boot for the throttle body to get access to the FEAD/Accessory belt.
2) Use the Breaker bar or accessory belt tool to relieve tension from the Accessory belt/FEAD belt (There is a movable pulley near the center of the engine in the front), Slip off the belt from any one of the pulleys you can easily access. This will free the belt from the A/C compressor. Make sure to recruit some help, You could break your fingers if you get it caught between belt and any of the pulleys.
I removed the belt completely as I had a few cracks due to age and planned to replace it.
3) Position your lift/Jacks to lift the vehicle up enough to get under the vehicle.(I have a storage lift and quickjacks so that gave me allot of room under the car)
4) Remove the Driver's side front wheel (US spec)
5) Remove the wheel well liner bolts near the strut assembly just enough to be able to move the bottom edge behind the "U" shaped cut in the liner. when moved a bit, you should be able to see the steering column shaft and the upper bolts for the compressor are right behind it.
6) Turn the steering to the right about 1/4th turn. This moves the steering column clamp giving you access to the front top bolt of the Compressor. There are 3 size 10 bolts, You need to use a 12 inch ratchet extension to remove the center of the three bolts.
7) The Rear top bolt for the Compressor is right behind and can be removed with the same 12 inch extension.
8) Get underneath the car and then remove the refrigerant lines using the size 6/8 socket with a stubby ratchet. These are located at the rear of the compressor towards the top. There is limited space but enough to be able to move the ratchet about 1/2 a turn at a time before hitting the engine mount. Once the 2 bolts are out, You can use a flat-head screwdriver to pop off the lines from the compressor. Watch out for the dripping oil from the refrigerant line.
9) Remove the bottom 2 bolts from the compressor and the compressor just falls off. The compressor is not light so it will hurt if it falls on you. Make sure that you support it when you take off the last bolt.
10) Make sure to replace the seals on the refrigerant lines to the compressor before installing the new compressor.
11) Repeat the previous steps in reverse order to re-install everything.
While re-installing everything, I swapped the Accessory belt and used the image from scuderia to ensure proper routing of the belt.
I hope this helps anyone who wants to know how the AC compressor is mounted. I believe the DB9 has the same compressor and general from end architecture so this procedure should apply to it as well.
Regards,
Aadil.
This is for your educational purposes and if you know what you are doing and are comfortable, This is a very easy job.
Background: My 2007 AM V8V had the A/C compressor clutch burn out, After checking the electricals, I was confident that the issue was in the electromagnet in the clutch which caused a short and burnt out eventually. That being said, I was not able to find the clutch itself for the compressor so instead of trying to source a part and waiting without enjoying the summer, I found a California vendor who sells refurbished units. I got one for $650 and decided to "crack on" with it myself.
Sorry I did not take any pictures, My hands were super dirty as I like to work without gloves to be able to feel using my fingers.
Note: Make sure you have the old refrigerant properly evacuated by a reputed shop and at the same time check for leaks.(I had them check mine for leaks and didn't find any, so i had them add PAG-46 back to bring the pressure to 0PSI. Idea was to eliminate any chance of moisture being sucked back in when i unhooked the compressor lines)
Time taken: 5 hours (I took the opportunity to replace the FEAD belt and refresh the brake fluid)
Tools Needed: (Going off memory)
Flat head screwdriver
1/4 breaker bar/ accessory belt remover tool
size 6/8(Cant remember) and 10 sockets, Box wrenches
T35 bit for Radiator cover and Wheel well liner
Jack, Jack stands
stubby ratchet that fits the size 8 socket
Extra long extensions for the Size 10 Socket
Rags/Shop towels
Torque wrench
Lug nut sockets
I also took this opportunity to replace the FEAD belt, not that difficult once you have the belt already off.
Procedure:
It is imperative that you have the refrigerant lines evacuated, before you begin, The refrigerant is harmful to the environment as well as to humans.
The A/C compressor is located on the side of the engine accessible only from the bottom. It is on the driver's side here in the US so you can trace it directly under the Cylinder head for Piston 5.
1) Remove the radiator cover to remove the "Y" boot for the throttle body to get access to the FEAD/Accessory belt.
2) Use the Breaker bar or accessory belt tool to relieve tension from the Accessory belt/FEAD belt (There is a movable pulley near the center of the engine in the front), Slip off the belt from any one of the pulleys you can easily access. This will free the belt from the A/C compressor. Make sure to recruit some help, You could break your fingers if you get it caught between belt and any of the pulleys.
I removed the belt completely as I had a few cracks due to age and planned to replace it.
3) Position your lift/Jacks to lift the vehicle up enough to get under the vehicle.(I have a storage lift and quickjacks so that gave me allot of room under the car)
4) Remove the Driver's side front wheel (US spec)
5) Remove the wheel well liner bolts near the strut assembly just enough to be able to move the bottom edge behind the "U" shaped cut in the liner. when moved a bit, you should be able to see the steering column shaft and the upper bolts for the compressor are right behind it.
6) Turn the steering to the right about 1/4th turn. This moves the steering column clamp giving you access to the front top bolt of the Compressor. There are 3 size 10 bolts, You need to use a 12 inch ratchet extension to remove the center of the three bolts.
7) The Rear top bolt for the Compressor is right behind and can be removed with the same 12 inch extension.
8) Get underneath the car and then remove the refrigerant lines using the size 6/8 socket with a stubby ratchet. These are located at the rear of the compressor towards the top. There is limited space but enough to be able to move the ratchet about 1/2 a turn at a time before hitting the engine mount. Once the 2 bolts are out, You can use a flat-head screwdriver to pop off the lines from the compressor. Watch out for the dripping oil from the refrigerant line.
9) Remove the bottom 2 bolts from the compressor and the compressor just falls off. The compressor is not light so it will hurt if it falls on you. Make sure that you support it when you take off the last bolt.
10) Make sure to replace the seals on the refrigerant lines to the compressor before installing the new compressor.
11) Repeat the previous steps in reverse order to re-install everything.
While re-installing everything, I swapped the Accessory belt and used the image from scuderia to ensure proper routing of the belt.
I hope this helps anyone who wants to know how the AC compressor is mounted. I believe the DB9 has the same compressor and general from end architecture so this procedure should apply to it as well.
Regards,
Aadil.
#7
Hi, thanks for the right up and seems consistent with the instructions in the Workshop Manual. I'm having the same issue and have sourced a new compressor but wanting to pay a mechanic to do the job. Unfortunately the local shop that's willing to install owner supplied parts is quoting 12-13 hours for the job. Does anyone have a good source for labor times that they can share?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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