No I do not, but I would be glad if I could find them.
What is AiM? Would be perfect if I at least could find somewhere to begin with this, the ID's could probably be reverse engineered if I knew what I was looking for.

 

So here is a quick update.

1. Had some more problems with electrical noise that really wasn't.
It so happens that when powering the MCU with the USB cable from the computer all analog voltages was one level, when powering the MCU from the car's 12V battery supply (via 5V regulator) the voltages was another level. I tuned the APP output voltages with the computer connected but when running it from 12V the levels where just outside the tolerance that the engine ECU accepts when giving full throttle, so it would go into limp mode occationally. This was not an easy problem to troubleshoot but I got it fixed now. Clue was a somewhat unstable idle, the engine would go up to about 850 RPM and then drop down again from time to time.

2. Using OBD2 protocol to get engine speed, temp and road speed was not a stable solution in the long run. Update time was about 200 ms to get engine speed and road speed only, temperature could be read less often as it does not change as quick and is only used to limit the max revmatch RPM when engine is cold.
But 200 ms is too long anyway, the engine RPM's could run away during this time. So I put in the effort to decode the raw CAN bus data instead for engine rpm and road speed. It is as follows for anyone in the future wanting to do the same:

All CAN packages are transmitted in the extended format, ie 29 bit ID's. All packages are always 8 bytes, and baudrate for high speed CAN bus system is 500 kbit/s.
I connected my CAN interface to the body OBD connector not the drivetrain OBD, and the IDs is according to this.

Engine speed: ID (HEX): 00040360, DATA (BIT): | 7777 7777 | 6666 6666 | 5555 5555 | 4444 4444 | 3333 3333 | 2222 2222 | 1111 1111 |
Lowest nibble of data no. 2 and whole byte of data no. 1 is engine speed. Format is in decimal. Example: binary 0101 0111 1000 = decimal 1400 RPM.

Road speed: ID (HEX) 01140020, DATA (BIT): | 7777 7777 | 6666 6666 | 5555 5555 | 4444 4444 | 3333 3333 | 2222 2222 | 1111 1111 |
This is a special one and not completely tested so a guess is following: last 7 bits of data 4 and whole byte of data 3 (left side i suppose, don't know if front or rear).
This speed is with two decimals, format is decimal. Example: binary 001 0110 1011 1101 = decimal 5821 = 58.21 km/h. This is tested to up about 14 km/h and seem to be correct but more testing is required.
Data 2 and 1 follows the same pattern but for what I guess is right wheel (as before, don't know if front or rear). I just do (left + right) / 2 to get average speed, should be close enough.

Clutch pedal state: ID (HEX) 15B00260, DATA (BIT): | 7777 7777 | 6666 6666 | 5555 5555 | 4444 4444 | 3333 3333 | 2222 2222 | 1111 1111 |
Clutch pedal state is indicated by two bits of data 5 as shown above. Example: binary 01 = clutch not depressed, 10 = clutch partly depressed, 11 = clutch fully depressed.

3. I gave up on trying to use a PID regulator to keep the engine speed constant. The throttle is so unlinear in response, as is the engine depending on current RPM. Example, to get moving from standstill about 25% throttle input is needed to not stall the engine @ 900 RPM. If I give 16% input when the engine RPM is 2500 the engine speed leaps up to 3800 fast as ****. To be able to use any kind of regulator to do this it would need to have a 3 dimensional look up table and feed forward. I got better things to do with my life so I fell back on a simpler method that works way better than I thought!

If engine speed is less than 65% of the requested speed, give 100% throttle until 65% is reached. If engine speed is between 65% - 100% of requested speed, give 25% throttle. If engine speed is more than 100% give no throttle at all.
I thought that this would give a jerky regulation with constant throttle blips but no, the inertia of the engine is enough to keep it relatively smooth. Way smoother than I can revmatch manually. Some more playing around is needed when shifting up and the revs is entering 65-100% in a falling manner. The energy required to accelerate the decelerating engine gives a rev dip in this scenario, so added throttle is needed here as a cushion.

I'll try to get some video during the weekend but have no good way to hold a camera except duct tape...

That's it for now.

 

Here are two videos of it working, was quite difficult.
Wanted to show my foot off the accelerator pedal and rev counter at the same time. Did my best..

https://youtube.com/shorts/60KWQQvY9wo?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/Xj5hxgEcON0?feature=share

 

Congrats..that seems to have worked out great…I’m sure it was a lot of work…

 

Hat's off to your ingenuity.

When I look at the first video, it seems like the revmatch happens after the clutch is released.
Maybe the view is missleading.
When I drive I always try to have the revs raised already when I put the lower gear in (which will protect the sycrorings & make smooth operation).
Maybe its a question of adjustments?

 

Thank you!

The revmatching happens when the gear stick is entering the gate of the next gear, earlier than that is impossible as the module can't know if you're going up or down obviously..

The revmatching stops as you release the clutch pedal from the floor to stop the drivetrain and engine fighting. The stock engine is so slow to rev up when going from under 2000 rpm that it probably seem that way though.
It's not something I've noticed creates any jerk, the shifts are smooth.

My clutch plate have worn (or completely missing) springs and that creates a driveline backlash that is really noticable in low gears when releasing the throttle. I have a new clutch but haven't had the time to swap it yet. At the same time I will lighten up the flywheel so will take some time to tune everything properly after that.

 

Of course - no neural link...

My clutch (V8V 07 model) looked the same, springs almost fell out and made scary noises occasionally - replaced it recently with a double disk with lighened flywheel. No regrets...

 

Have you thought about running it up to Peninsula European in San Mateo? I'm sure they could install it.

 

I'm currently potentially impulse buying a C8 so I may be selling the Aston.........

 

I looked at the c8…fit and finish left me cold…the Aston is a much nicer place to be…imho…we are all different…

 

That's what I'm struggling with right now. I'm enamored with the performance and technology in the C8, but the visceral experience and beauty of the Aston is making it difficult to give up. I do not at all like the "stock" C8 stance and looks, but when a proper set of wheels, side skirts, etc. is put on, then it's a really nice looking car.

I signed up for a C8 allocation about 6 months ago and was not expecting the call so early. I'm driving the dealer crazy because the car is ordered with my spec, no changes. The car will sell one way or another but they'd rather have it pre sold before it gets built.

Of course these are 1st world problems so I keep things in perspective. Whichever I choose, the world won't notice or care........

 

Agree…actually found the interior wanting too…without causing offence…it’s a wannabe super car imo…so near..but the accountants ruined it…

 

No offense at all. All valid points and I've only owned the Aston for a year, which is another of my problems, I go through cars too fast. I honestly have a disorder of some kind, not sure what, but as soon as I get a car and get it exactly how I want it, I'm on to the next one, usually about the 12-18 month point, it's ridiculous and I'm fully aware of it, yet I can't seem to control it. My current 06' Vantage with a Stage 2 tune from Severn Tuning runs absolutely flawlessly, like butter (plus it's a manual, which I love). I've also been looking at R8s (manual V10s), though the ones I want are really stretching my budget. I think I take the YOLO concept to the extreme......there are about 15 cars that I want, but I can't have all of them at once. Too much information, but there you have it......

 

Seems legit…used to upgrade often…but now we are in Canada..and your paying tax on the car every time..I’ve kinda slowed that down..taxes kill every deal..effing government…lol..the v10 r8 is on my buy list…