Hi




I think most of the potential problems/concerns were addressed in the thread. Basically, a checklist for a new car in long storage (or similar circumstances) could be something like:

• Paintwork (well covered in the thread)
• Tyres - should IMVHO be replaced (unless the dealer has good documentation that the car has been moved regularly, or has been stored on jacks - wheels in the air). Tyres can not only go 'off' with age (cracks in the rubber, and the rubber actually age hardening), but they can also suffer from 'static deformation'. Some tyres are much worse than others - generally, those with softer and weaker tyre 'carcasses' <sp?> such as Pirelli and Dunlop.
• Rubber comonents - a very careful examination of all rubber components. The most obvious are the 8 driveshaft joint gaitors. Others are all the suspension bushes along with the rubber bump-stops. Steering gear gaitors and swivel joint boots. Under bonnet/hood hoses, such as coolant, air con, power steering, and oil cooler (engine and tranny) lines. Flexible brake hoses. And finally, rubber door and trunk seals
• Filters - as a minimum, I would ask for both engine air filters to be renewed (and the airboxes and intake trunking cleaned - it is not unknown for small birds or small mamals, along with spiders and insects to nest in such places). I would also ask for the cabin pollen/odour filter to be replaced. Finally, I would push for the fuel filter to be replaced. I'm sure you know that petrol can go 'stale' when stored for any length of time - basically it forms a solid 'gum', and can often cause a 'varnish' build up. This is why petrol lawnmowers are difficult to start after coming out of 'winter hibernation' - and two years is exceedingly stale petrol. I would actually recommend the fuel filter being changed after say 250-500 miles (rather than first delivery to you) - this will give a tank or too of 'fresh' petrol to thoroughly dissolve and flush out the fuel tank.
• Corrosion - I don't know how far 'inland' the cars have been stored, but if there is any chance of 'sea air', laden with salt, being blown onto those cars - then particularly bare alloys, such as suspension arms and alternators need checking. Suspension arms shouldn't really be any problem - but corroded alternators which haven't turned for two years can be highly problematic. Might not be advisable to press for a new alternator before delivery - but make sure you insist on some kind of 'no quibble' replacement should any fault develop (rather than allowing the dealer to go through a whole raft of 'diagnostic procedures' before agreeing to change it).
• Service - being as the car has stood for two years - this takes it into the territory of needing a main inspection service - so this MUST be done. Don't let them fob you off with just an oil change or fluid service. And make sure the service book is stamped, and you get not only an invoice/receipt - but also the 'tick box' check sheet which the workshop technician should use. Not all dealers give you this latter check sheet, but you are fully entitled to it - and it forms a vital 'belt and braces' history for the car.

One potential issue which was sort of concerning me is the warranty and servicing package. I'm guessing you are in the middle east - but what if you move back to the US and take the car back with you? Is the warranty/service restricted to the dealer in the desert who is selling the car, or is it all being underwritten by the 'country' importer. And more importantly, will that warranty and servicing package be 'transferrable' back to Audi of America (and their network of dealers). It is not uncommon for a dealership to offer their own warranty in scenarios similar to yours - but for those said warranties NOT to be honoured by say Audi of Dubai / Audi UK / Audi of America, etc - all of which would be tied into the central Audi AG Germany warranty and technical support.


Another issue is the mileage - you said they were all basically delivery mileage, and the photos you provided confirmed the low mileage. However, as I hope you know, modern 'digital dashboards' can be very easily 'clocked' (the mileage wound back) with just a laptop and the right software. However, the 'true' mileage is still 'hard coded' in one of the cars ECUs. Do you have, or know anybody who has VAG-COM or VCDS, as that can read all of the ECUs memories in exactly the same way as the genuine Audi dealership equipment can. Might just be worth checking for some piece of mind.

Onto prices and 'packages' - being as I'm in the UK, I can't really comment on these. Re the Ceramic brakes - my comment on them being fitted to front and rear is based on UK fitments, so some slight caution should be taken with my comment, as different locales may have different 'specs' - however, I personally very strongly doubt that the S8 would be front only for the Ceramics. From my research, the only Audi to be fitted with front-only Ceramics is the RS4 - the R8, the S6 and the RS6, along with Volkswagen Group related cars such as Bentleys, Lambos and the mighty Veyron all have four-wheel Ceramic brakes. To confirm for yourself, look either the inside front cover of the service book, and/or under the boot/trunk floor carpet - and you should find a 'data sticker'. The lower half is usually full of three digit codes, known as 'PR' numbers - the front Ceramic brakes are coded with '1LW', and the rears are '1KU'.

Hope this all helps, Sean.