work around for 3rd brake light led
#16
....just an observation...it is poor form to discover a work around and not share...in this case it was probably an oversight...this forum is successful due to sharing of hard earned knowledge...
#17
Hello All,
REDNOSEGT has not been active on this site since August 2016, although he did start this thread on March 28th 2016, and then updated on April 22nd 2016 that he "Just completed work around
no dash light
no resistors
Pretty simple fix
let me know if anybody needs instructions. Most people would want to replace the light".
Then to Steven's post of " Sure, post 'em just in case. Thx!", REDNOSEGT replied "How often do you think people drive with the light on vs actually change the brake light, to me it is unreal that an led brake light that costs so much $$$ fails.".
SO his reply is confusing as he never posted the fix, is it that maybe he then felt that one should fix the 3rd brake light as I feel and maybe thought to drop giving out the work around for safety reasons, I KNOW I AM REALLY REACHING HERE.... BUT he did give all of you the clue right in his first post, the circuit needs to see a current draw, so as he stated to insert a small LED into the circuit to fool the vehicle system into seeing that the 3rd BL is in working order, "I got to the connector and checked the light its for sure not working its dead, and it gets 12v when you hit the brakes.", So I will try to help BUT, THIS IS AT YOUR OWN DISCRETION TO PREFORM, AND YOU TAKE ALL RESPONSIBILITY, the connector he spoke of is at the top of the rear glass tucked up under the headliner on the driver's side (LHD), you would take that connector with the red and black wires and figure out what size LED would satisfy the required draw, one would not want to use to hot of an LED or even a incandescent bulb for that matter, because if one were to stand on the brake peddle for a period of time, it would produce unwanted amount of heat, and that would not be good....
REDNOSEGT has not been active on this site since August 2016, although he did start this thread on March 28th 2016, and then updated on April 22nd 2016 that he "Just completed work around
no dash light
no resistors
Pretty simple fix
let me know if anybody needs instructions. Most people would want to replace the light".
Then to Steven's post of " Sure, post 'em just in case. Thx!", REDNOSEGT replied "How often do you think people drive with the light on vs actually change the brake light, to me it is unreal that an led brake light that costs so much $$$ fails.".
SO his reply is confusing as he never posted the fix, is it that maybe he then felt that one should fix the 3rd brake light as I feel and maybe thought to drop giving out the work around for safety reasons, I KNOW I AM REALLY REACHING HERE.... BUT he did give all of you the clue right in his first post, the circuit needs to see a current draw, so as he stated to insert a small LED into the circuit to fool the vehicle system into seeing that the 3rd BL is in working order, "I got to the connector and checked the light its for sure not working its dead, and it gets 12v when you hit the brakes.", So I will try to help BUT, THIS IS AT YOUR OWN DISCRETION TO PREFORM, AND YOU TAKE ALL RESPONSIBILITY, the connector he spoke of is at the top of the rear glass tucked up under the headliner on the driver's side (LHD), you would take that connector with the red and black wires and figure out what size LED would satisfy the required draw, one would not want to use to hot of an LED or even a incandescent bulb for that matter, because if one were to stand on the brake peddle for a period of time, it would produce unwanted amount of heat, and that would not be good....
#18
#21
British, how log did it take them to do your light? My only problem is finding someone to follow me out there if I have to let it stay a few days and then getting a way back to pick it up.
I could take it to them the same time I take my headliner down to get fixed. Hopefully save a few coins in the process since they wouldn’t have to do it.
I could take it to them the same time I take my headliner down to get fixed. Hopefully save a few coins in the process since they wouldn’t have to do it.
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 04-11-2020 at 03:59 PM.
#22
That's an interesting thought; it makes sense to do it at the same time as the headliner, doesn't it?
Unfortunately, they don't operate like a dealer, I guess it's possible you could wait, but I wouldn't count on it. They usually get the parts delivered the day after the car is in the shop (obviously they don't keep Bentley brake lights on the shelf) and they're often kind of slow, but not in a bad way. We're talking Fluid Motor Union in Illinois for those following along. They're my independent who have done a ton of work to my car and I've been really happy with their quality. They're family-run, so you might get a special arrangement from the office manager, she is super-accommodating and friendly. Getting there and back is a hassle for me. Once, she personally delivered the car to my building because she was visiting family. Once, they delivered it via flatbed and once I just took an expensive Uber.
You're pretty far away, but I would look into how much an Uber would cost and if they'd go that far, but that was by far the easiest. They also have a contractor that flat-beds cars for a reasonable price, you might look into that. They're not far from the Naperville Metra station, so that might work as well, they'll pick you up. All might be different during this quarantine, but I can say that they are supremely flexible and have earned my loyalty.
The way it works is this: you drop off the car, they call you the next day or day following with the bad news, they charge a deposit, they wait for the parts (usually the day after the deposit, I don't know where they source Bentley parts), they do the work, it takes a while, they call back with the rest of the bad news, you pay via credit card over the phone if they're delivering or pay in person if you're picking it up.
I just took my wife's Cadillac into the Chevy dealer, because our Cadillac dealer dropped Cadillac. Ugh. Night-and-day difference between the rip-off ffactory that is Chevy with drooling service writers.
Unfortunately, they don't operate like a dealer, I guess it's possible you could wait, but I wouldn't count on it. They usually get the parts delivered the day after the car is in the shop (obviously they don't keep Bentley brake lights on the shelf) and they're often kind of slow, but not in a bad way. We're talking Fluid Motor Union in Illinois for those following along. They're my independent who have done a ton of work to my car and I've been really happy with their quality. They're family-run, so you might get a special arrangement from the office manager, she is super-accommodating and friendly. Getting there and back is a hassle for me. Once, she personally delivered the car to my building because she was visiting family. Once, they delivered it via flatbed and once I just took an expensive Uber.
You're pretty far away, but I would look into how much an Uber would cost and if they'd go that far, but that was by far the easiest. They also have a contractor that flat-beds cars for a reasonable price, you might look into that. They're not far from the Naperville Metra station, so that might work as well, they'll pick you up. All might be different during this quarantine, but I can say that they are supremely flexible and have earned my loyalty.
The way it works is this: you drop off the car, they call you the next day or day following with the bad news, they charge a deposit, they wait for the parts (usually the day after the deposit, I don't know where they source Bentley parts), they do the work, it takes a while, they call back with the rest of the bad news, you pay via credit card over the phone if they're delivering or pay in person if you're picking it up.
I just took my wife's Cadillac into the Chevy dealer, because our Cadillac dealer dropped Cadillac. Ugh. Night-and-day difference between the rip-off ffactory that is Chevy with drooling service writers.
#23
Yea I'm going to see what I can do within the next few weeks.
I wonder who they order from also. I just looked at Flying Spares and Scuderia and their prices are still the same from I bought mines (it's sitting on the shelf collecting dust. I forgot I had ordered one last year but Bentley said the rear glass needed to come out which now I find isn't the case.
I'll add these if any new people come looking on the cost or places to get them from.
Scuderia
Flying Spares
I wonder who they order from also. I just looked at Flying Spares and Scuderia and their prices are still the same from I bought mines (it's sitting on the shelf collecting dust. I forgot I had ordered one last year but Bentley said the rear glass needed to come out which now I find isn't the case.
I'll add these if any new people come looking on the cost or places to get them from.
Scuderia
Flying Spares
#24
If you have a third high level brake light not working, and it is showing on the cluster each time you start the car, than you either buy a new brake light led strip for around £500, and than have to remove rear windscreen to fit it, or cut the old one out, which could damage the screen in the process
Ok, I have done the work around, and it worked perfect. I am not fussed about having a third brake light, plus the cost of replacement and fitting is huge. it is a very easy job to do, and it cost me £11.99 for a 12v led light pack, will post photos of the one I used, but plenty around. There is a post on here that shows which panels to remove on the left rear corner, https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ent-howto.html
takes around 20 mins, once done you will be able to get your hand under the corner of the roof lining, and feel and pull the third light connector. There is plenty of slack so you should be able to pull it out. Disconnect the connector. The red and black wire side of the connector is the one that goes to brake light, the brown and green is the power going to it. So snip off the wires on the red and black wire connector, we want to use this connector again...(leave enough to connect the new wires to connector),.. Than use the snipped off connector and attach the new led light wires to it. Once done connect back to power by pushing the connectors back together. Than test, put brake lights on and the new led should light up. If all good, tuck the wires and leave under the roof lining, and put back the trim and seat.
All your doing is tricking the system to think the third brake light is working, which gets rid of the fault code and warning light.
Do not forget to plug in and delete codes out, as it will sometime keep coming up brake light not working, until you clear the codes fully.
it is as easy as that folks.
Ok, I have done the work around, and it worked perfect. I am not fussed about having a third brake light, plus the cost of replacement and fitting is huge. it is a very easy job to do, and it cost me £11.99 for a 12v led light pack, will post photos of the one I used, but plenty around. There is a post on here that shows which panels to remove on the left rear corner, https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ent-howto.html
takes around 20 mins, once done you will be able to get your hand under the corner of the roof lining, and feel and pull the third light connector. There is plenty of slack so you should be able to pull it out. Disconnect the connector. The red and black wire side of the connector is the one that goes to brake light, the brown and green is the power going to it. So snip off the wires on the red and black wire connector, we want to use this connector again...(leave enough to connect the new wires to connector),.. Than use the snipped off connector and attach the new led light wires to it. Once done connect back to power by pushing the connectors back together. Than test, put brake lights on and the new led should light up. If all good, tuck the wires and leave under the roof lining, and put back the trim and seat.
All your doing is tricking the system to think the third brake light is working, which gets rid of the fault code and warning light.
Do not forget to plug in and delete codes out, as it will sometime keep coming up brake light not working, until you clear the codes fully.
it is as easy as that folks.
Last edited by heathrow99; 07-22-2021 at 08:25 AM. Reason: photos too big and description better
#25
#26
Would you please pm me the instructions? Many thanks
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