ACTIVE REAR AEROFOIL stuck on 07 Bentley GT
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ACTIVE REAR AEROFOIL stuck on 07 Bentley GT
Hello guys, I just purchased a 2007 Bentley GT about 2weeks ago, while trying to get used to all the buttons and the switches I realized that the ACTIVE REAR AEROFOIL would not close back to its original position. I took it to a shop where they specialize on Bentley’s and the guy told me that the switch had lost its memory and he had to reprogram for $500 which I find extremely ridiculous. He further told me that he would have to work on it from the trunk to get it fixed. Any advice on which way to go about fixing this am in the Houston Texas area. Anxiously waiting for ur advices.
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Hello there, I copied and pasted this from elsewere but they had the same problem. There are 2 fuses one in the drivers fascia fuse box #71 fuse 5amp
and the other one is the trunk fuse box #9 25 amp ,,,,, Hope this helps.
and the other one is the trunk fuse box #9 25 amp ,,,,, Hope this helps.
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Hey John Fiametta and Quarryman,I really appreciate ur responses. John I tried pushing it down but it feels very stiff and I really don’t wanna mess around breaking this piece because that part might be very expensive to install. Have you tried this technique before and did it work? I did try the battery disconnection before on my Mercedes and it took care of that problem. But on a Bentley I don’t know. Quarryman I will try the fuse boxes as you advised as soon as I am free this weekend. Thanks
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There’s plenty of threads on here “ rear spoiler “
removal of the trunk cover is pretty easy .On a U.K. spec 2 torox screws holding the warning triangle and 1 in the pull down handle .Then it just pry s off .
held on with push clips .If they detach from the cover ,just add a bit of glue when lining it all up when reassemble .
you will see the motor and in the middle of its gearbox a hex / Allen screw —- use this ,turn it to lower the spoiler.
but it should push down ,mine did .
You can lubricant it all if you remove the motor mechanism ( 3 torox ) - comes off and reinstalls v easy .
unpluggung it and replugging it with its 12 pin ?plug may copy a system reset .
Thing is there’s a control module somewhere, so that really needs a batt disconnect/ reconnecting to reset it .
Again plenty of posts on here about the two batts - easy enough one each side of the trunk .
LHS is the “ house “ runs all the systems.RHS the engine dedicated starter .I think for a system reset disconnect both remove all 4 terminals .
You will need to go for a run and do a few restarts for it all to relearn various stuff .
while the cover is off check the tubes holding the guide wire are ok .
The guide wire are what the motor push’s / pulls to operate the spoiler mechanism.
See the various threads about these splitting and how to remedy .
I have had an intermittent spoiler light on .
turned out to be a fractured wire in the RHS umbilical at the corner of the trunk lid .Opening and slamming or gently rubbing the external wire cover on the RHS ,would cure it temporarily
Mechanism s all ok inside after I inspected after trunk lining removal .
How ever there is control module ( somewhere?) and the switch bar on the tranny tunnel to go wrong .
suggest for now just wind it down and try and do a system reset .
fuse location is in the service handbook .
As QM said ^^^^ - Check those 1 st obviously.
removal of the trunk cover is pretty easy .On a U.K. spec 2 torox screws holding the warning triangle and 1 in the pull down handle .Then it just pry s off .
held on with push clips .If they detach from the cover ,just add a bit of glue when lining it all up when reassemble .
you will see the motor and in the middle of its gearbox a hex / Allen screw —- use this ,turn it to lower the spoiler.
but it should push down ,mine did .
You can lubricant it all if you remove the motor mechanism ( 3 torox ) - comes off and reinstalls v easy .
unpluggung it and replugging it with its 12 pin ?plug may copy a system reset .
Thing is there’s a control module somewhere, so that really needs a batt disconnect/ reconnecting to reset it .
Again plenty of posts on here about the two batts - easy enough one each side of the trunk .
LHS is the “ house “ runs all the systems.RHS the engine dedicated starter .I think for a system reset disconnect both remove all 4 terminals .
You will need to go for a run and do a few restarts for it all to relearn various stuff .
while the cover is off check the tubes holding the guide wire are ok .
The guide wire are what the motor push’s / pulls to operate the spoiler mechanism.
See the various threads about these splitting and how to remedy .
I have had an intermittent spoiler light on .
turned out to be a fractured wire in the RHS umbilical at the corner of the trunk lid .Opening and slamming or gently rubbing the external wire cover on the RHS ,would cure it temporarily
Mechanism s all ok inside after I inspected after trunk lining removal .
How ever there is control module ( somewhere?) and the switch bar on the tranny tunnel to go wrong .
suggest for now just wind it down and try and do a system reset .
fuse location is in the service handbook .
As QM said ^^^^ - Check those 1 st obviously.
Last edited by John Fiammetta; Dec 19, 2017 at 01:34 AM.
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This could be a dumb idea but worth a try if they fixes described above don't work:
My spoiler is programed to go up automatically at 90 MPH. Once it is up and I slow down quite a bit it will lower.
Perhaps if you drive over 90 MPH and then slow down to 60 or so the memory will come back alive, reset and will lower the wing for you.
My spoiler is programed to go up automatically at 90 MPH. Once it is up and I slow down quite a bit it will lower.
Perhaps if you drive over 90 MPH and then slow down to 60 or so the memory will come back alive, reset and will lower the wing for you.
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Posts: 414
From: switzerland
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The most common fault is a broken wire in the LHS ( as you stand at the back looking Fwds ).Of the wires around the hinge .
I think you need the Bentley diagnostic computers to tell you which one .
I used the guys at Prestige Service Leeds to fix mine .From memory about Ł100 mostly labour .They re connected the open circuit .
symptoms were light came on and it did not move ,stayed down .It was intermittent depending on wether the open circuit closed by accident with boot opening .
Before giving up and taking to them ( due a service anyhow ) I did take a look, removed the motor , checked the worm drive and the rods and the plastic things that suppose to snap - all seemed ok .
I dismantled the motor on the kitchen table , when reassembled found the +ve and ground and applied 12 v both ways it turns .
Theres a whole load of pcb inside and it’s Bentley stickered on the outside .
so I fugure the D.C. motor turns both ways for a predetermining time when the spoiler reaches its out limit ( no external sensors ) you will get a temp inc in resistance at it stops , the pcb will detect this and cut the power .Same when it retracts .
This movement time ( up or down ) and subsequent resistance end time to cut the power will be unique to Bentley I guess .
And the VW Beetle .Hence the differences in part no and external sticker .
ok the motor , the housing / mounting are identical ( except label ) but the pcb will be unique to the vehicle because of the different timings for the up / down as they are different spoilers weight / size / shape / range of movements-etc .
I did look like others at the VW part something like Ł50 as said it was just a broken wire and paid a Bentley tech to fix it .
What we need now is somebody to come along with a live example ( and MY of car ) to say the VW part is plug n play .
btw You can manually pull up and push down the spoiler when it’s not working as there’s no power to the motor and the gears / motor just turn as you move it or push it down .No harm done .
Nice to clean the cr8 p out under it and poke strimner line down the two drains .Theses drains open out under the boot lip .
I think you need the Bentley diagnostic computers to tell you which one .
I used the guys at Prestige Service Leeds to fix mine .From memory about Ł100 mostly labour .They re connected the open circuit .
symptoms were light came on and it did not move ,stayed down .It was intermittent depending on wether the open circuit closed by accident with boot opening .
Before giving up and taking to them ( due a service anyhow ) I did take a look, removed the motor , checked the worm drive and the rods and the plastic things that suppose to snap - all seemed ok .
I dismantled the motor on the kitchen table , when reassembled found the +ve and ground and applied 12 v both ways it turns .
Theres a whole load of pcb inside and it’s Bentley stickered on the outside .
so I fugure the D.C. motor turns both ways for a predetermining time when the spoiler reaches its out limit ( no external sensors ) you will get a temp inc in resistance at it stops , the pcb will detect this and cut the power .Same when it retracts .
This movement time ( up or down ) and subsequent resistance end time to cut the power will be unique to Bentley I guess .
And the VW Beetle .Hence the differences in part no and external sticker .
ok the motor , the housing / mounting are identical ( except label ) but the pcb will be unique to the vehicle because of the different timings for the up / down as they are different spoilers weight / size / shape / range of movements-etc .
I did look like others at the VW part something like Ł50 as said it was just a broken wire and paid a Bentley tech to fix it .
What we need now is somebody to come along with a live example ( and MY of car ) to say the VW part is plug n play .
btw You can manually pull up and push down the spoiler when it’s not working as there’s no power to the motor and the gears / motor just turn as you move it or push it down .No harm done .
Nice to clean the cr8 p out under it and poke strimner line down the two drains .Theses drains open out under the boot lip .
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Hello guys, I just purchased a 2007 Bentley GT about 2weeks ago, while trying to get used to all the buttons and the switches I realized that the ACTIVE REAR AEROFOIL would not close back to its original position. I took it to a shop where they specialize on Bentley’s and the guy told me that the switch had lost its memory and he had to reprogram for $500 which I find extremely ridiculous. He further told me that he would have to work on it from the trunk to get it fixed. Any advice on which way to go about fixing this am in the Houston Texas area. Anxiously waiting for ur advices.
Thanks
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