Hi John, Sat 7am here in Kiwiland and just waking up to the challenge of another day trying to get this Bentley to go!
Yes the shipping company disconnected the batteries and had them replaced with new. Cost me 300 pounds, $600 NZD. The car arrived at the shipping depot with flat batteries. They couldn't get the car to start either and pushed it into the container with a forklift but the looks of my front bumper.
I have had the batteries charging on a 7 stage projecta battery charger at 5 amps and they both test just fine.
I will start from ground zero again and follow the correct hookup procedure. I am not confident though as tried this many times over the course of the day yesterday and no crank...no nothing other than lights on the dash.
Why do you think the dash lights, or most of them come on when the batteries are hooked back up even when there is no key in the ignition? This is what is puzzling me.
Anyhow, I will let you know how I get on. Even if the thing wont go I could just look at it and get a buzz....what a stunning car design wise.....I cant wait to drive it!
Thanks for getting back to me.
Cheers,
Stephen.

 

I had the same issue on a 2006 model ....there is a post on you tube showing this problem.
sppears to be a poor terminal connection on the starter battery.
check the video and there is an e mail address that you can make contact with the chap who identified the diagnosis.
Goodluck

 

Update....a day of failure. I have been through and checked the batteries again, checked all the relays I could find, and fuses. Nothing changes. The key is out yet when I hook the batteries up the dash lights come on but nothing works. I have ordered a VCDS to get more in depth. I have a generic Launch scanner which communicates through the VW software and there are a million codes most of which are phantom DTC's and nothing I can use. Lost communication stuff.
Still looking for answers. Let me know if you have one.

Stephen.

 

There’s a shed load of relays associated with the KESSY , so will influence the starting side , located under the passenger foot well ( RHD ) .

The box has a supposed tight lid ,but it’s a fiddle to replace correctly.
Crucially it’s by design open ( scuse the pun ) to water ingress .
Two sources .
1- the first very common is from blocked scuttle drains and the car parked frequently outside in weather .Water seeps into the passenger compartment then into this relay box .Its been known a common fault for the starter relay to jam on and burn out the S motor .No biggie I hear you say but access involves removal of the engine to replace the SM .

2- Airco drip tray blockage = damp from spillage turning corners or going down steep gradients tipping on to the carpets in both foot well.
Drivers = wet Capet , but passenger = water finds its way into the relay box inevitably!


Yours might just be damp , recoverable damp ness from the motion of the ship and crane .....existing water sloshing about ? .
Obviously 12000 mikes away I can only diagnose from an arm chair with out a physical examination.

So next up remove the passenger foot week carpet and investigate that relay box ....do remove the lid and check all relay connections .

 

Thanks John. Interestingly I was reading last night about KESSY in the online manual I purchased. I will check it today and get back to you.
Thanks again for your input.

Cheers,
Stephen.

 

Hi John, well wouldn't you know it....the KESSY ecu was full of water. No cleaning this one as it is well corroded inside. For those who dont know the KESSY ecu lays flat in the front passenger foot well on the left hand side.The date on the unit is 2015 so it has been replaced previously. They obviously dealt with the symptom and not the problem at the same time. I will be looking for and checking the drains you mentioned John.
I can only hope when I replace this there is nothing else damaged as a result of water ingress. I will let you know when I get the part and am able to try it.
Cheers,
Stephen.

 

Sorry to hear this .Thx for the feed back
Here you are ........and benefit of others .

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...enance-gt.html

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-part-2-a.html

 

Legend John, Thank you!

 

Hi all, just to update..Finally the new Varta starter battery arrived (the old original was also a Varta, that lasted 14 years!), and was changed following all procedures carefully. This seems to have cleared most issues and the car started happily. Interestingly enough, it also lifted / adjusted ride height the moment I connected the main batt negative (i.e. before I had connected the starter batt negative). Having re-calibrated the windows, the only gremlin I notice that still hasn't cleared is the soft close doors. So, the door-close motor runs but does not "engage" to pull the doors closed. Is there a re-set for this, or just a matter of hoping the car re-learns with more driving ? (I only took it two rounds round the block - literally).
Anyone know of a re-set / re-calibrate for the soft-close doors?
Thanks.

 

Hi John....and everyone. Hope you are all safe and well insulated from Covid 19.......surreal is all I can say but very happy to be at the bottom of the world in NZ!
The only problem with being at the bottom of the world is the KESSY unit I ordered for my Bentley is....no one knows where! I am sure it will turn up at some point.
Anyhow, the Kessy ECU I purchased off Ebay was used as in the guy bought it and then didn't need it, but brand new because it is still virgin.
It was originally purchased for a 2015 Porsche Cayenne but the part number is identical to the unit out of my Bentley. P/No 3D0909137FX.
I contacted Bentley NZ to see if they were able to get the pin number for my car out of their system so I could program the unit when it gets here and they have just put the fear of the big guy upstairs into me!
They claim that even though the part numbers are the same, the porsche kessy may still be different from a genuine bentley kessy and if I try to program it I could completely muck things up by locking out the ECU, the steering column, and a heap of other stuff! The last one they had a similar issue with cost 20k to repair!
Needless to say he got my attention. He was genuine in his approach and not just trying to get me to bentley for profit. I made contact through a mutual friend.
Does anyone know if this is correct? The units look identical, the main part number is identical, no porsche branding on the new one and no bentley branding on the old one. I just cant see how there can be a difference?
Would it make better sense to have the eeprom swapped from the old unit to the new and avoid attempting to reprogram the new kessy.
Help please all.
Cheers,
Stephen.

 

That’s a shame .I have heard seemingly “ same part “ electronic part like a rear spoiler motor with a built in PCB from another VAG car although it plug and play does not quite work exactly the same because the Bentley chips inside are different specific to Bentley or VW or where ever.
So tread carefully .
Hope fully some one will along soon with more info .

 

To expand on John's comment above:I’ve had a look at the IETIS parts list and according to that the part number should be 3D0909137B for a 433MHz KESSY in a car of that age (i.e. Non US or Far East, for which a 315MHz KESSY is required, and has a C suffix)

The good news is that from my understanding the fact that the part number has a 3D prefix means it is from the Phaeton originally, and is not Bentley specific (it would be 3W if that were the case). It is therefore a generic ECU used across the VW family.

However, the suffix is important, and I suspect that the ‘FX’ version that you have ordered will not be interchangeable with a ‘B’.

Having confirmed that the part number and suffix are correct, you then have to consider the hardware and software build standard:

When you look at the KESSY unit, on the left side of the label, below the VW logo, are two numbers, one preceded by a letter ‘H’ (for Hardware) and one preceded by an ‘S’ (Software).

These are the build standard for that particular control unit, and for it to be truly and reliably interchangeable, the two numbers must be identical on both old and new boxes, meaning that the boxes have identical hardware and software versions.

Here's an example of a KESSY showing a Hardware version 15, and software version 6700:





Somewhere, I am sure, VW will have a table of interoperable build standard versions across the various Control Units in the car, but I am not aware of such information being publicly available, so we must assume that that unless hardware and software versions are the same then replacement shouldn't be attempted.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I suspect that you'll need to find a different KESSY control unit, or do as you've talked about and have the relevant components swapped over into the Porsche box.

 

Great post ^^^^ Dark Green

 

Hey Dark Green, thanks heaps...you have answered my question.with the hardware and software enlightenment.
Turns out the new one coming has exactly the same numbers!
My understanding from research so far is that the F is a supersession of the B. The x simply means it has been replaced some time in the past......so an F will work the same as an Fx.
Below is an Ebay listing link for a kessy revamp and swap service. I made contact with Sam through ebay and he has been really helpful. I think there are many out there who could benefit from his expertise. He does seem to know what he is doing when it comes to KESSY reprogramming.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-P...kAAOSwACRaoavi
Or email Sam directly....sam00cleveland@hotmail.co.uk

Cheers,
Stephen.