Hello friends,

For this Bentley Continental GT 2005 left hand drive,
those who are familiar with the forum can see from these links

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...gt-2005-a.html


https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...leae-help.html


how difficult it was to bring this car to this crank no start status with a valid programmed starting key.

Many and many thanks to Johnny Hotspur GT to have taken me in his arms to bring me at this encourageous state.

But it seems like I still have a lot to do to start this car; the status now is the following

1- I have 2 brand new batteries:
92AH AGM battery on the left
65AH AGM battery on the right

2- After installing the batteries the car cranks once and then at each time I try to start I hear a knock from the starter (the testlight connected to the solenoid cable shines while hearing the knock sound) and that is all.

Even with this status I can manually activate the starting solenoid if I open the starting relay (433) and manually depress the relay head.

The new batteries was installed direct from the box, and the main battery was at 12V for 15 to 30mn, then as the tension was slowing down I connected the charger to stop the decreasing of the voltage.

The 2 fuel pumps are not yet controlled by the starting key, so to test their fonctionnality I have jumped its 2 relays, now that they are jumped the pumps are working (these 2 pumps also suck a lot of current I imagine; especially from a non running car...).

The fuel tank is half full.

I have tried to activate starting (or at least cranking) from the starting battery on the right, result = no way I cannot succed to do it. It always cranking from the main batt.

You can find attached the diagnostic report.
By watching carefully you can see that from time to time I am not able to diagnose the Address 01: Engine
and when it is possible the fault
18331 - Please Check DTC Memory of ECU Number 2
P1923 - 008 -
is highlighted
for me it seems to be critical

On Address 11: Engine II I have a fault
16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
if it is related to RPM then it can be critical and prevent the car from starting.

Please help guys how to resolve these faults and fire up this marvellous car.

Best regards

 

Hello friends,

I just notice a detail that may help:
the car prevents to start a second time when i try to start and leave the key in the starting position and the car continues automatically to start up to its time limit. Then it will not crank again I will just hear a kok as described previously.
Then to be able to crank again I will have to carefully disconnect the main battery.

Now, when I crank and bring back the key by myself after 2 to 3 seconds, I can crank again as many times as I want. The important thing is to stop cranking after 2 to 3 seconds, as soon as I see that the car is not willing to start.

Here attached is the diag report after successfully crank 30 times.

Regards

 

Hello @kilog ,
The link you posted is not the correct link to our original discussion, I will find it and replace.

I will be back with thoughts on your issue.

Johnny

 

@kilog ,
Right off the bat, 100% the G28 engine speed sensor will NOT allow the engine to fire over (run), it will just crank, been there in my rebuild, so check the plug and wiring at the sensor, it is located at 6 o'clock on the transmission bell housing.

I am confused by your comment as to the starter only cranking from the house (left) battery, for that to happen I believe that your parallel switch would have to be on every time, therefore sending the positive from the house battery to the starter battery positive cable, which then would make me think that you should check the starter batteries positive cable connection and it's pyrotechnic connection.

Please clarify that if you push the head of the relay, does the starter crank every time, and or does the starter only crank by way of pushing the relay head when the key is in the ignition and turned on ?

Has anyone turned the key to the left to activate emergency start aka parallel power mode ?


But FIRST, check out the G28 on the transmission !

Johnny

 

Here are the answers on differents questions asked.

Please clarify that if you push the head of the relay, does the starter crank every time,
Answer: YES
and or does the starter only crank by way of pushing the relay head when the key is in the ignition and turned on ?
Answer: I have to check on the car to confirm but i can confirm that with the key inserted and ignition on the car cranks always by pushing the relay head.
Additionally I dont remember if i have tested to crank with the key not inserted.Has anyone turned the key to the left to activate emergency start aka parallel power mode ?

Answer: Yes, result = nothing, the behaviour is the same: no crank.

Tomorrow I will check and follow the other indications and report.

Manu thanksRegards

 

@kilog ,
Great, good night, talk tomorrow.

Johnny

 

Hello Johnny
Here is the pirotech positive cable from the right hand Batt.
As you can see the small cable is broken and the black junction is missing.
Please tell me if there is a way to adapt and connect it back while looking for where i can buy a new pirotech cable from.

 

I juste notice that the pirotech element is ​is housed in the positive terminal (yellow ellement in the picture). The head is broken or disconnected. I will try to reconnect it while looking for another one.



​​​​​​

 

​​Answer to a question yesterday:
Does the starter only crank by way of pushing the relay head when the key is in the ignition and turned on ?
Answer: Key inserted or not by pushing the relay head i can crank the car.

The G28 fault has disappear. In fact the sensor connector was not well inserted.
Now that it is correctly inserted the fault has disappear as you can find in the attach diag report.

Regards

 

I am no expert, but that looks like it's been triggered to me. I'd have thought it would be comparatively simple to have a replacement cable made up for the high current cable and any piece of wire for the low current pyro detonator.

Of course, it may not start without the pyro charge, I imagine Johnny will know

C

 

Hello @kilog ,
Yes, I see the the yellow connector is broken off of the positive terminal, but that is not your issue, my pyrotechnic connection was blown also in my flood car, they actually blow apart, and as I can see by your picture, yours blew apart and someone used bailing wire to tie it back together, take that back apart and clean it good, even inside the hole that the nipple if the cable end slides into, post pictures of it separated if you would, I cleaned mine put it together and crimped the larger outer portion to get a good connection before I found replacement, which I have not installed as of yet, and my vehicle runs and drives with the expired Pyro charge.

How is the engine speed sensor, get to that first, because you have the engine cranking, so I would get on the speed sensor and take care of this cable afterwards, meaning don't wait to find a replacement, make a connection and check the speed sensor.

I want to hear this engine run!!

Johnny

.

 

​​Answer to a question yesterday:
Does the starter only crank by way of pushing the relay head when the key is in the ignition and turned on ?
Answer: Key inserted or not by pushing the relay head i can crank the car even with the negative cable disconnected from main battery I can still crank the car by pushing the head of starting relay 433.

The G28 fault had disappear. In fact the sensor connector was not well inserted.
Now that it is correctly inserted the fault has disappear in the former diag.

But now it is back again.

I have to dismount it and check it out

Regards

 

@kilog

I don't know what made me write "negative" cable, that Pyrotechnic connection cable is the positive.

Just to note, I had no code for G28 engine speed sensor, yet it was what kept my engine from firing up, eventhough it was a replacement from another Bentley engine, it wasn't until I plugged the old broken one back in that she fired up, then I got a brand new one.


Sorry about the neg / pos mix-up.

Johnny

 

@kilog ,
I would get a new speed sensor, it's not just the connection, the sensor itself goes bad, you may want to pull it out and make sure that it is clean, no oily gunk build up.

Johnny

 

I pulled out the speed sensor I discovered it dry and a bit dirty. i cleaned it plugged it back and connect its connector firmly. Then I went back and crank the car imagine what happened...

it fires up!!!
Hurray!!!
Here attached is the last diag sessions (no more G28 fault in fact, and the report is shorter too)
Thanks you all...

Tomorrow I will try to see what is the problem with the pumps relay, as for now they are jumped....