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This is probably a question that needs to go straight to Johnny, but my engine and differential mount bushings are now bad, 20 years and it's time for new bushings. The engine mounts are obtainable but crazy expensive ($1,000 ea) but the differential bushing is now unobtainium.
the only bad part is the rubber bushing; can I simply take a used part to a machine shop and have them replace the bushing with something generic? I mean rubber is rubber is probably not rubber but still, a mount is a pretty simple concept? I can buy a used part for less than $50 but I don't want to change a worn-out one for a worn-out one.
The part number is 3d0599125e and Scudera doesn't carry it, it is "post VAG" which doesn't make a lot of sense. It's listed everywhere for the Phaeton, but I don't think it really exists in that realm either.
I'm tempted to buy one, take it to a machine shop and see what they can do.
I've done several of these Lemforder bushings on other Euro car suspensions where the aluminum housings are perfectly good, just the bushing wears. And typically, the whole arm or backet with a new bushing is astronomically expensive.
On these bushings I purchased a floor press from Harbor Freight (nothing in cost), pressed out the old bushing and pressed in the new one. I first refrigerated (doesn't need the freezer) the new bushing (24 hrs) so it presses in more easily. I don't see a big issue in your pic with press in depth, but I would just use a micrometer depth gauge and measure the bushing housing from the bracket housing and press in that same depth.
Hello @British ,
I have the differential mount available used with only 10k miles, but I wouldn't want to remove it from the complete rear subframe assembly I have, not for $50 🤑, especially when you can get the bushing for about $30, see screenshots.
As to the engine mounts, I do have both electrical mounts available, they have about 10K miles on them, I can get pictures of them later today if you are interested.
Just out of curiosity, if you don't mind to share, how many miles do you have on your 05 ?
Do your engine mounts have a brown goo oozing out of them ?
EDIT: @BWings beat me to it... Hello BWINGS 👋!
Johnny
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Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; Jan 12, 2023 at 11:13 AM.
Reason: Add question
Sorry guys I've been traveling and didn't get back to you right away, but THANK YOU! The differential mount really is unobtainium, but the bushing has already been ordered. Johnny, I already gave them the go-ahead to put on new engine mounts before I even saw your post, my assumption is that these things wear due to both age and mileage, so I figured new rubber was the way to go for the best ride.
The symptom was really pretty minor, I noticed that while driving up in a multi-level car garage, I could hear a clunking noise from the rear. It didn't seem related to bumps or anything (probably related more to torque). When I took my car in for the check engine light (ended up being just needed timing adjusted) I asked them about the clunking and they found the worn-out mounts. They were happy as can be to order the bushing, they'll have no trouble press fitting it.
My only worry at this point is that if the timing issue really is a timing gear getting worn out, it's an engine-out repair, which I don't really want to do, I just did that a couple of years ago for the turbo solenoids.
Johnny, my car looks brand-new, but has 78,000 miles on it. The only wear on the whole car is on the leather when you slide in the driver's side, and the speaker panel where you put your foot to keep the door from closing on an incline. It's really a nice car, I've spent seven thousand bucks on the stereo when all is said and done, the tires are nice, I re-did the wheels where there was curb rash. Not a single dent or scratch anywhere on the car, it's really a nice machine. I know that I could just let the mounts go, but I promised myself that if I bought an old car for less money instead of a new one for more, I wouldn't begrudge the repair costs to keep it perfect. It came with no faults. So far, the only mechanical issues have been the third brake light, the turbo solenoid and now this cam position error. If I could live with check engine lights, I would have never had to get anything replaced, the car has always run perfectly fine.
Oh, forgot about the small exhaust leak you helped with that was just a bad plug in the block.
