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So my drivers window is doing some mad stuff and its drivign me crazy!!
1. Wont come up using window switch on driver panel
2. Will close on Comfort close by holding lock on fob being held down for 5-10 seconds
3. Turning clockwise the door lock using the key being held for 10 seconds
ChatGPT telling me to try all sorts and I can't see its things in VCDS
I have got into Module 46 -> Measuring Blocks 001 (the first 3 001 / 002 / 003 are useful to see whats going on with driver side panel)
I can see (comparing to passenger window) E40 Driver Window Switch - Manual Open (it switched to Auto Open when pressing DOWN, but this is after that and doesn't change when I pull switch UP which I thought it would change to Auto Close)
I have tried the trick of sitting inside the car and comfort closing it all etc and then holding the switch up for 20s but no change.
Its like it doesn't know where the window is to go up to using the switch or the switch is blocked. It goes DOWN with switch but wont come UP using switch. Just to complicate things I then had my back window drop and was locked and eventually cleared using the comfort close.
Is there a process anyone has used to reset window pinch points or adaptations to initialise the window switch or reset the window. DEMENTED!
As a side note Bentley Barcelona suggested KESSY to be renewed but I would like to just clean all the grounds first.
So last night I eventually got all my windows up via the comfort close and key in door lock.
I think maybe its a wiring harness problem according to ChatGPT then again it told me to order thr wrong battery so the jury is out on its advice atm.
Hopefully the car has had time to settle and will take it for a drive today to hopefully reset everything.
Battery on both sides of boot is all good, and will do a charge up for both tonight and tomorrow, but overall I am hoping any gremlins get cleared with a few DTC clear outs and maybe the window will start working.
It has been showing a Short to Ground like a lot of the problems in the car electrics, and I do wonder if my Kessy is on its way out and maybe just a new one and some new keys will help sort it, so maybe a quote from Barcelona Bentley will get that and my window rubbers and my tail light sorted. (Oh I proper broke that, but will leave that for another thread.)
Any spare tail lights welcomed for a Gen 1, as I would prefer to canibalise an old tail light not get a used newer one as my car lenses are tinted and will mean I need 2 new lights!!
The thing about ChatGPT is that it's going to get the wrong end of the stick quite randomly. You might get three good answers in a row -- but the following one might still be complete rubbish.
Best just to use it for hints, which can then be checked up on.
@CUE99T ,
If while you were in 46, it showed the button being pressed down for opening, but then showed no action when the button was lifted for close, wouldn't that mean that the switch itself is bad, because if all else (fob & lock cylinder) works to open and close all windows, including your drivers door glass, then all wiring would be good and in working order.
I would check the main switch panel for any corrosion, or bad contact points.
I did strip it down and everything looked great. No corrosion or anything. Looked very new actually. Might have a double check of it now youve showed the video and your comments etc.
@CUE99T ,
Great, if you watch closely in the video, the switch is upside down, and the broken piece he talks about is for the driver's side (RHD) window, it appears that a piece of the pad broke off, therefore the switch for that window probably only worked in one direction..
@CUE99T ,
Great, if you watch closely in the video, the switch is upside down, and the broken piece he talks about is for the driver's side (RHD) window, it appears that a piece of the pad broke off, therefore the switch for that window probably only worked in one direction..
Johnny
Good catch. I will pop it open tomorrow and take some pics. I did try uploading pics a week or two ago but they wouldn't upload fully so will try again. Thanks for pointing that out.
@CUE99T ,
Your upload issue may be a problem with one of your pictures, this has happened to me in the past, so I uploaded one at a time, until I found the one that wouldn't, not sure what the issue was with the picture, it wasn't size...
No, I dont get it, its different pics, and it freezes on the first all the time no matter what opic. Is there a size or dimensions limit as these are just mac screen shots so not big etc.
So ChatGPT tells me this is the close procedure as I've cleaned the circuit board and nothing fixed, but from what I have told it where comfort close works, it believes its the "lost end-stop"..... not sure I believe it, but it says thats the problem.
The procedure that works on a 2004 Gen 1 when 42/52 are NOT accessible
This is the only reliable way to teach the front left window on early cars.
Do this exactly in order
Ignition ON
Engine not needed
Driver’s door CLOSED
This is critical on Gen 1
Using the driver’s window switch:
Press DOWN
Hold until fully down
Keep holding DOWN for 10–15 seconds
Release the switch
Now use comfort close (choose one):
Key fob lock button OR
Turn key clockwise in door lock
Let the window go fully UP
When it reaches the top, keep holding comfort close for 15–20 seconds