Those with Xenon Fogs please read....
Those with Xenon Fogs please read....
Installed xenon for they work and look great the only problem is that i get a check for light message only when I turn them off ???
I have the error canceller installed kit is from DDM
I have the error canceller installed kit is from DDM
I have the same problem with mine with cancellers installed too. I sell HID components and as of now I am stumped as to how to correct this. I may try to install some load resistors next to simulate a 55w draw and see if that works. Its not that bad to live with though since it only happens when I turn them off and then the car is off shortly thereafter. I really love the way the HID fogs accent the front end too, I am currently running 3000k 35w.
I know a friend of mine who tried DDM 35W kit on his BMW but didn't work out well, had all sorts of problems, thought the unit was bad but after getting RMAed and etc, he tried using 55W kit and all those problems went away.
Would it be a issue with using 35W kit on 55W sourced unit?
Would it be a issue with using 35W kit on 55W sourced unit?
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Ok you are going to have to use a relay harness with resistors on them. Only way to get the error message away. Be careful with those warning boxes bc I have had them explode on us at times..
OK so the relay harnesses that I have in stock are typically wired to the battery for the positive side and then there are seperate grounds. I have thought about this option but since the battery is under the seat I think its a lot of trouble. Also considered the pos electrode used for jumping under the hood but I put a meter to it and its only putting out like 10 volts. Do your relay harnesses connect differently?
Are you worried about the heat from using resistors or heat with a 55w kit. I am currently running a 55w kit in my WRX headlights for the high beam and the low beam and havent noticed any real difference in the heat levels when I was running 35w kits. Now resistors on the other hand get really freakin hot. You have to be careful about where they are located because they do get hot enough to melt plastic and skin for that matter. As for a kit that will not run a code, i think the best bet is a 55w kit, which I haven't tried, just because of the reason the code is being brought up in the first place. The system is designed to detect 55w of draw per side and when the system detects anything less, like your 35w hid kit, it sees an error and throws the code. Maybe a canbus type hid kit will work. They are a little more expensive but they claim to work with canbus electrical systems with zero errors. Not too big of a selection here in the US either.
Last edited by FastHackem; Aug 16, 2010 at 03:39 PM. Reason: Spelling



