Brake fluid selection for 2005 CTT
Brake fluid selection for 2005 CTT
If you want to top up brake fluid in the ctt, what fluid is the one to use? I do not know what is in there now, but assume it is original fluid. I searched and some say ate 200, some say ate gold, and some places say to use pentosin dot 4 fluid. Are all these suitable? Which is best to use to ensure it will work fine with fluid in there?
User guide says mineral fluid from Porsche which to me doesn't mean much now.
Greatly appreciate enlightening me. Thanks.
User guide says mineral fluid from Porsche which to me doesn't mean much now.
Greatly appreciate enlightening me. Thanks.
Last edited by ciaka; Apr 22, 2012 at 10:00 PM.
If it's the original fluid - you're 5 years past due on a brake fluid flush (called for every 2 years from date the P!G was manufactured..)
Any DOT-4 fluid will work. Do NOT use DOT-5. ATE fluid is good stuff. I'd assume Pentosin fluid is good stuff. Mineral fluid (non DOT-4) is much different from brake fluid - do not add mineral hydraulic fluid to the brake system.
And you really should consider getting the P!G's brake fluid flushed.
Any DOT-4 fluid will work. Do NOT use DOT-5. ATE fluid is good stuff. I'd assume Pentosin fluid is good stuff. Mineral fluid (non DOT-4) is much different from brake fluid - do not add mineral hydraulic fluid to the brake system.
And you really should consider getting the P!G's brake fluid flushed.
When I said original fluid, I did not mean the fluid that was put in there before it was first purchased. I meant whatever the dealer used to put in there.
The fluid is still light in color but I do not know for sure how log it has been, so I am gearing up to get this done, especially since it calls for it on 60K service anyway.
How do you guys do the flush? Do you buy one of them power bleeders? If yes, which ones will fit the brake res. cap? What seems to be the easiest method?
I hear there are 2 bleed nipples on each wheel (did not look yet though). If so, do you bleed from both or just one of them per wheel?
I have done it several times but never on a Cayenne yet.
It would need to be a 1 person job as I do not trust my wife even entering the garage, never mind holding stuff for me.
The fluid is still light in color but I do not know for sure how log it has been, so I am gearing up to get this done, especially since it calls for it on 60K service anyway.
How do you guys do the flush? Do you buy one of them power bleeders? If yes, which ones will fit the brake res. cap? What seems to be the easiest method?
I hear there are 2 bleed nipples on each wheel (did not look yet though). If so, do you bleed from both or just one of them per wheel?
I have done it several times but never on a Cayenne yet.
It would need to be a 1 person job as I do not trust my wife even entering the garage, never mind holding stuff for me.
Last edited by ciaka; Apr 23, 2012 at 01:01 PM.
I just bought 1 liter of
due to the incredibly high wet boiling point 518 deg. F. However, it is insanely expensive.
Bought a in order to bleed brakes solo.
Bought a in order to bleed brakes solo.
How did that motive Power Bleeder work for you? Is this the one with 45mm cap (I think that is the option you can get, but did not specifically say for Cayenne). This is the one I am thinking of for when I decide to pull the trigger on brake flush.
I just bought 1 liter of Castrol SRF due to the incredibly high wet boiling point 518 deg. F. However, it is insanely expensive.
Bought a Motive Power Bleeder with European Cap in order to bleed brakes solo.
Bought a Motive Power Bleeder with European Cap in order to bleed brakes solo.
The European Cap is the correct version for the Cayenne. I believe there is an Amazon review with someone else with a Cayenne that used it fine.
The motive unit itself got rave reviews, so I am looking forward to using it.
cool. Yes, agree on the unit. Seems to be a piece of cake with the user just getting pressure up in the unit and then starting at the farthest wheel pass/rear, then driv/rear, then pass/frt then driv/frt to and use bleed screws to push out the old fluid out. Keep an eye on the bleeder to ensure id does not run dry and you will be just fine.
Just fyi, racing pads will require more heat to work properly so if you do not drive very aggressively, they may not give optimal braking (not sure exactly which ones you bought but that is something to keep in mind - I am sure I am saying something you already know though).
Thanks again.
Just fyi, racing pads will require more heat to work properly so if you do not drive very aggressively, they may not give optimal braking (not sure exactly which ones you bought but that is something to keep in mind - I am sure I am saying something you already know though).
Thanks again.
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A hint on using any power bleeder/flush..
Don't over pressurize it. 10PSI is more then enough (and I usually shoot for 5PSI..)
Too much pressure can cause the fluid reservoir (at least on BMWs) to pop off the master cylinder then fly around spewing brake fluid everywhere. On BMWs - I take a large tie-wrap and put it around the reservoir and the master cylinder - snuggly (not "tight") so this can't happen. Hasn't happened to me - has happened enough times to a mechanic friend that he's stopped using the power bleeder.*
* = I know we'll hear from someone who uses 40PSI and has for ages and never had a problem, yadayada.. It only takes once (or seeing the aftermath of it happening once) to make a believer outta me..
Don't over pressurize it. 10PSI is more then enough (and I usually shoot for 5PSI..)
Too much pressure can cause the fluid reservoir (at least on BMWs) to pop off the master cylinder then fly around spewing brake fluid everywhere. On BMWs - I take a large tie-wrap and put it around the reservoir and the master cylinder - snuggly (not "tight") so this can't happen. Hasn't happened to me - has happened enough times to a mechanic friend that he's stopped using the power bleeder.*
* = I know we'll hear from someone who uses 40PSI and has for ages and never had a problem, yadayada.. It only takes once (or seeing the aftermath of it happening once) to make a believer outta me..
A hint on using any power bleeder/flush..
Don't over pressurize it. 10PSI is more then enough (and I usually shoot for 5PSI..)
Too much pressure can cause the fluid reservoir (at least on BMWs) to pop off the master cylinder then fly around spewing brake fluid everywhere. On BMWs - I take a large tie-wrap and put it around the reservoir and the master cylinder - snuggly (not "tight") so this can't happen. Hasn't happened to me - has happened enough times to a mechanic friend that he's stopped using the power bleeder.*
* = I know we'll hear from someone who uses 40PSI and has for ages and never had a problem, yadayada.. It only takes once (or seeing the aftermath of it happening once) to make a believer outta me..
Don't over pressurize it. 10PSI is more then enough (and I usually shoot for 5PSI..)
Too much pressure can cause the fluid reservoir (at least on BMWs) to pop off the master cylinder then fly around spewing brake fluid everywhere. On BMWs - I take a large tie-wrap and put it around the reservoir and the master cylinder - snuggly (not "tight") so this can't happen. Hasn't happened to me - has happened enough times to a mechanic friend that he's stopped using the power bleeder.*
* = I know we'll hear from someone who uses 40PSI and has for ages and never had a problem, yadayada.. It only takes once (or seeing the aftermath of it happening once) to make a believer outta me..
It doesn't sound like it will hurt to use a nylon tie as a safety measure.
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