Help!!! Hello, I have a 04 CTT and I'm in the middle of doing a Leistune intake install. I am currently working on the passenger side(right) intake. There was a hose attached to a nipple of the stock air box that I removed, but there is no attachment or place for it to go onto the Leistune intake. My question is, what do I do with it?
Thanks for your time.

 

That's the air line that feeds the air suspension compressor.

 

Thanks. Rob called me, walked me thru the rest of the process.

 

Please let us know what you did to complete this install, so others in similar circumstances can have a complete picture of what is needed to be done here (Leistung intakes - passenger side connection to air compressor hose).

Then, this will be a useful thread to keep.



Thanks.

 

i put that to one of those breather filter and vent it to atmosphere through the breather filter.
I had them vent back into the intake pipe similar to stock. It causes weird idle and sometime after a moderate drive the compressor will vent back into the intake the car will shut the engine off.

 

I've been thinking about an air intake, but that's definitely not acceptable to me.

Has anyone else had this problem?

 

I will post some pics of the install.
About the air-suspension hose: Rob from Leistune said that there is a small filter that attaches to the hose. So far I haven't experienced any ruff idling or engine just shutting of issues as of yet.
I will post if I do encounter any of those problems.

 

yea the small filter like the EVom intake i believe. That what i meant. Some know them as breather air filter. Used to put them on the honda back in the teenage years.

 

Let me start out by saying that I am far from being a mechanic! That being said, this install wasn’t too complicated or difficult to accomplish. Save your $$$ you would give to your indy shop and take a few hours and do it yourself, and use the money you saved to get more performance goodies.



Disclaimer: I am by no means responsible for any alterations made by you, to your vehicle. This is just an explanation of what I did to my personal vehicle.

Tools Needed: 10mm wrench

Needle nose pliers

Phillips screw driver

Long Standard screwdriver





Remove engine body panels. (Turn screws 90 degrees and pull)





Both sides and the front pieces




This will expose everything you needto work on for the removal of the OEM air boxes.



1) On the elbow connected to the air box there are two phillips head screws, locatedon each side of the elbow, where the elbow connects to the air box.




On these screws you will find small indicator tabs. There are also indicator tabs on the housing.



2) A-line these two tabs and use some pliers to pull up on the screws. The elbow will now become unattached from the air box.



3) Unclip the clips holding the air box and the front cover will just pull up and out.



4) Removethe air filter element



5) Now that you have a little more room to work with, unscrew the clamp holding the mass airflow sensor onto the inlet tube. Carefully pull up and remove the mass air flow sensor, It takes a little effort to pop out.

 

6) Remove the 10mm bolt near the front of the air box securing the back side of the airbox to the vehicle.



7) If you have air suspension, there is a hose coupling for the air suspension on the side of the air box, (pointing towards the firewall), that needs to be removed. And the fresh air duct at the bottom front, (towards the bumper), of the air box which needs to be slipped off (use the long standard screwdriver to pry it off).



(Now your fun begins, for this is truly the hardest part of this process.) I chose to remove the passenger side first cause of all the horror stories I had read about its removal.

8) Now,with some finessing, pull up and push the bottom portion of the air box in while simultaneously tilting the upper portion of the air box towards the engine. Or, just simply do whatever works for you to get out the air box.


9) On the mass air flow sensor, (where the elbow from the air box attached), I had to remove the elbow in order to use the new silicon hose couplers that came with the new intakes.




It is secured by two phillips head screws.



10) Repeat the above procedure for the driver’s side. There are no extra hoses or anything connected to the air box on the driver’s side to worry about, just the air inlet tube up front. Also, this side comes out with ease compared to the passenger’s side air box.

11) The new intakes go in with ease. It takes a little effort to carefully push the mass airflow sensor back into the hose you took it out of (be mindful of the direction for air flow symbol), but other than that, no major headaches.





You reuse the 10mm bolt you removed from the stock box, and secure your new intake covers with it.

 

I decided to use an old K&N R/C filter I had laying around for the air suspension hose. I used a Ľ” inside diameter hose to push into the connector for the air suspension hose.






Then I routed the Ľ” hose thru the small whole that is on the new intake wall.







Inside intake cover

 

Job complete



Engine covers back on











The intakes are a bit nosier than what I was expecting them to be. But, the improvement in the low rpm’s is phenomenal! The turbo lag is barely noticeable now. And for that, I will live with the louder than expected outcome. Besides, I think it woke up the 2nd cat bypass pipes a bit also too.

Now… what to do next. IPD Plenum, or ECU and diverter valves.

 

nice write up. i did diverter valves after the intake and 2nd cat by pass. Next up are tuning and plenum. The fine tuning should unlock more power from all the mods that were done.

 

Just curious, how often would you have to change the intake? 5k 10k 50k miles? I failed to find that spec.

 

Aren't you just sucking in hot engine bay air with that thing?