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I am running into Immobilizer active. I was able to locate a guy that had the software. We reset the key and the Kessy system on sat. The module in the steering colum is not showing up at all in the diagnostics. Car is a 2005 Cayenne 3.2 vr6. 120k miles. It was traded to me as is and I am wondering does anyone rebuild modules. If i can remove it from the car where could i send it for the rebuild or is there any bypass solution to get the car to start.
So today I pulled the drivers seat and installed a brand new battery. I also did a new remote battery and reset all of the codes in the car. They car is currently showing no faults besides code 1176 and still keeping the Immobilizer active and not allowing me to start my new to me cayenne. Can anyone please help with a bypass and or another way to start the car. I have the title in hand and not sure were to go from here. 300 plus people have looked at my post and not one person had an idea.
Thanks Biz,
Last edited by David R. Bizousky; 10-03-2018 at 10:20 PM.
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What diagnostics tool are you using? If it isn't Porsche specific you won't be able to do much, and even some Porsche specific ones (Durametric for instance) have trouble with some modules in the car. I haven't heard of anyplace that rebuilds the modules. There is a place that rebuilds the electronics in the steering column (Porsche only sells the entire column.) There is a relay in the column and a few reed switches that have been known to be a problem.
Last edited by deilenberger; 10-03-2018 at 10:28 PM.
I am using Durametric, I have cleared all trouble codes. The only code that was coming from the steering colum was from the previous dead battery. The car is currently showing no faults besides low key signal. I purchased two new keys last night as the car only came with one and it is very beat up.
I am now looking for someone that can program the 2 new keys and also cut them for me. Does anyone on the forum offer any sort of group buys. Sorry I am use to the M3 and M4 forums usually a lot more posts and volume of traffic. I guess most people do not purchase these to modify but I wanted a new 4x4 instead of my Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and the plan is to first get running then clean interior and then Rhino Line it for off road use.
I am using Durametric, I have cleared all trouble codes. The only code that was coming from the steering colum was from the previous dead battery. The car is currently showing no faults besides low key signal. I purchased two new keys last night as the car only came with one and it is very beat up.
I am now looking for someone that can program the 2 new keys and also cut them for me. Does anyone on the forum offer any sort of group buys. Sorry I am use to the M3 and M4 forums usually a lot more posts and volume of traffic. I guess most people do not purchase these to modify but I wanted a new 4x4 instead of my Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and the plan is to first get running then clean interior and then Rhino Line it for off road use.
A dealer can program the keys - but he needs the vehicle and keys to do it. If you bought new keys off ebay - those often don't have the chip - they assume you'll reuse the chip from your old keys. Getting the blades cut requires a special machine. I'd start calling local locksmiths who might have one. (When I needed one for my M3 - a local locksmith had the tool needed to cut the surface-cut key.)
As far as volume - RennList's Cayenne forum is much more active than 6SpeedONLine. Both are owned by Internet Brands. I tend to hang out over there - and it's a much more active environment. There is one serious off-roader there - look for "Otis"..
Today I was able to make some more progress on the car. I was able to roll back the carpet, cut all of the wet coverings out of the way and really start to dry this thing out. Since ownership everything has been wet and very clogged so just keep cleaning and taking apart more and more. Tomorrow after 2 full days of drying I am going to rewire what is needed to be rewired under the drivers side. Then a master reset again. Also my 2 new keys came in so now I am working on getting them re programmed.
Did you unwrap the black tape over the splices in the wiring harness shown here?
There are 6 splices there that can corrode, and this will cause problems for the canbus signals between the various computer modules in the car. You need to cut out the corroded sections of wiring and re connect those (usually by soldering) and covering with marine grade water proof shrink wrap.
I had a ton of faults after replacing a dead battery, and not so coincidentally... just after the first rain in my ownership.
Well here is an update. I have been in all kinds of classes to get my lending liscense and mortgage bank back open so I have not had as much time to play with the car as I would like. I have been able to compete the following.
A.) Pulled up the carpet and finally got the carpet dried out.
B.)Cut and spliced all the wires that were in the we area that had a water intrusion point.
C.) re wrapped all the wires
D.) Sent out the ECU of the car and had theIMMO turned off from an ecu level. I am still getting Immobilizer active even with the ECU bypassed.
E.)I also tuched the negative and positive terminals together for a hard reset.
They Key that I have will unlock and lock the doors from the Fob. However if i lock the doors with he remote and then manually unlock the door with the key and try and start the car the alarm comes on and flashers flash. If I remove the key and hit the unlock button the alarm on the car stops but still reads Immobilizer active.
Any other ideas? Knowing that it is bypassed at an ECU level not sure what to try next.
Thanks Biz
Last edited by David R. Bizousky; 10-25-2018 at 06:12 PM.
Did you use a scan tool like Durametric or PIWIS to reset the errors on all modules? The "hard reset" of touching battery leads together will not do that.
I did that prior to the ECU coming in the mail today. They only code that is left that I can not remove is code 1176.
It appears you're using a VW tool to read and reset the system? The Porsche AllDataDIY website has a listing of all ECU (and TCU) codes - and there isn't a code 1176. The fact that the VW one references the immobilizer is certainly a clue - but the actual error may not be entirely accurate, and since you can't seem to clear it, it would seem to be pointing to the cause of the vehicle not starting. Perhaps you can find someone with a Porsche specific tool (Durametric, iCarScan)?
So yesterday I called the mobile locksmith. I am still seeing immobilizer active. So far I have done the following. Purchased a new car battery, rewired all wires under the drivers side carpet with splices, sent the ECU out to have Immobilizer code set to OK. When the locksmith came out to program the two new keys i purchased he is not able to communicate with the system. The current key unlocks and locks doors but will not turn over the car. I am only getting one code with durametric it is code 01176. Is there a way to jump the system for a reboot? Possibly turn it off all together? I am going to be using the car for 4x4 and camping so would rather it gone all together.
Did you try resetting the code with durametric with the key not in the ignition? This is how I was resetting my Steering fault, so that I could drive it the next morning, since it would trigger as soon as I removed the key (steering lock couldn't lock). I could reset it without the key in the ignitioin, by pressing the brake pedal and then connecting durametric.
Alternatively, did you try resetting it with the key in the ignition, and then without removing the key, then have the lock smith try to reprogram.
With all of your other faults though... it seems like you still have a canbus problem similar to what happens when the wiring is corroded and cross-talking. How did you splice your wires? How many splices? And how did you remove the corrosion? And how did you re-wrap the wires?
09-23-2018, 05:54 PM
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