I'm working on that. Lot of things could have been done differently... oh well.. this is what it is..
There are many things on this car that wasn't done right. I am trying to get the correct parts (including screws, seals, clips etc) and do it the right away. The good thing is we have 2 other cars so I can take time to figure this out. I was able to start the car and everything seems to be ok mechanically.. I need to get durametric or some other scanner that will help me diagnose the car better..


Few things I noticed that need to be replaced are.
1. Shift ****... Can't change gear.. It's in neutral now and it takes lot of force to move the shifter... even then it doesn't change the gear
2. Seatbelt tensioners... both driver and passenger side are bad..
3. Exhaust muffler has a crack in it and I don't know if a muffler shop can fix it.
4. There is no way to check if the airbag sensors are good or if they need to be replaced. They are very expensive as well.
5. The steering wheel is not installed correctly. The clock spring needs to be replaced and programmed. I believe only dealer can do this.

and a lot of other things...

 

Cant believe that I have to take the seat frame off to replace the distributor.
To take the seat frame off, driver's side carpet needs to be removed. Fun! fun!

Remove center console
Remove driver and passenger side trims
remove front seat
remove carpet
remove seat frame

The workshop manual doesn't say anything about removing the seat frame to replace the power distribution box..

 

I assume if this is a used distributor - you checked to make sure the pyrotechnic fuseable link is there? You could check continuity between the two big lugs that hold it down - that shouldn't trigger the explosive charge.

 

I believe it's a new distributor and yes the pyrotechnic link is there. I haven't checked the continuity... How do you suggest I do that?

 

An Ohmmeter connected across the two BIG nuts that hold the link in place should read 0 Ohms, or very close to it. If it passes that test it's good to use.

DO NOT stick the Ohmmeter probes into the small connector - that's the trigger for the pyrotechnic device and it might make a very loud bang noise and then be worthless.

 

BTW - it's also possible if you want to avoid disassembling most of the vehicle to replace the entire power distributor (if the rest is good) - that you could just swap the pyrotechnic link from the good one to the bad one. Be careful installing it so you don't put a lot of twisting force on the tabs that hold it in place.

 

That's what I tried but it's just so difficult to get it off the board and put it on the other one. It was lot of work to replace the distributor...took me almost 4 hours to get it done.. it looks okay for now..

The major problem I have now is with the shifter.. I just can't seem to get the car out of park. The display says move the lever to park but the shifter is in park. I am able to start the car but can't change to gears. I removed the shifter **** and tried to shift by pulling the white lever there...still no luck. Not sure what's wrong.

 

You're stepping on the brake obviously..

There is an interlock that won't let you shift out of P unless the brake is depressed. I'd be suspicious of that interlock.

Fig 2: Shift Interlock Circuit - wiring diagram. If you search for that - or 357712 (the diagram number) it should turn it up on your factory manual.

I haven't looked to see what Durametric would tell us about the functions there - but if it can read values from the left side Body Control Module (BCM) - I'd be looking to make certain the brake applied signal is getting there. IF that looks OK, I'd want to check the signal at Pin-11 (Shiftlock) of the "Selector Lever Control Unit" - under center console.

 

I managed to fix the problem. It was the selector lever cable.. for some reasons, it was stuck. Removing and reinstalling seems to have fixed the issue. Now I'm able to move the selector lever..
But here is the question, I am able to shift even without pressing brake pedal just by turning the ignition on. Is it normal behavior?
When I say turning the ignition on, just by turning the key once without starting it.

 

I just tried it..

If I have the key outside the vehicle - basically nothing changes except a message on the multi-instrument-display telling me "Key not recognized". Pressing the brake pedal has no effect on the Parking lock. Can't move the lever.

If I have the key in my pocket - and turn the ignition on without pressing the brake pedal - I still cannot move the lever UNTIL I press the brake pedal - then I can move it. Another message about moving it back to PARK and trying to start the engine again appears.

Behavior may be different if you don't have keyless-entry-ignition, but I don't see why it would be. The idea is that someone can't take it out of park without pressing the brake pedal - to prevent it from rolling away perhaps..

 

Thanks for checking. I guess I have a problem with the brake sensor as well. I need to check for codes and see what is stored in the system..

 

Replaced the distributor and now the car won't start. When I try I hear a single click sound. It usually is because of weak battery but I have checked the battery completely and it's good. I have also checked the cables visually for bad ground but can't see anything wrong. All the fuses seem to be intact as well. It never ends.....

 

2012 Cayenne S.
Car just won't start with the battery fully charged. When I try to start I hear a single click.. nothing else. I checked the battery and it shows 13.89v. All the lights inside including the dash, blinkers, tail light, headlights work just fine... but the engine is not getting any power I think...
I tried to jump start the car, but the car is getting no power whatsoever when I connect an external battery via the jump start terminals. Not even a single light... it's completely dead.

I think there is a disconnect between the main power distributor and the fuse box in the engine compartment. Could it be the relay 433 in the engine bay fuse box? If the relay goes bad, would it completely cut off the power to the engine?

Anyone has the wiring diagram? I'd greatly appreciate any help on this. Thanks!

 

Tested all the 3 relays in the engine compartment and they all good. Something to do with the distributor then...

 

I'm keeping the rennlist thread updated..
http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-c...art-power.html