I'm upgrading my tools from a PC to a Flex. Can anyone give me some advice on the settings that should be used with Menzerna products? I had typically been using PC on 3 to spread, 5 or 6 to polish.

 

bob,

basically its the same thing.

let me know if you need anything we have them in stock ready to go.

 

Whatever setting you had with the PC, it's one setting less on the FLEX. I usually have the flex on 3 to spread and don't go above 5.

 

Bob,

Here is a video you can watch.

Its a side by side of the Flex and the PC.

 

wanted: sale on flex between NOW and the end of the year!

 

Here's a great deal we're currently running on everything you'll need to get staretd:

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...sh-Kits/Detail

Shipping and Handling are included.

 

Phil, Moe...as always thank you.

My concern about the flex is that it is a true dual action drive...I'm worried that I will be cutting more than before. Usually with my PC, I can use something with minimal cut like PO85RD and go until the cows come home and know that I'm not going to do any serious cutting or damage. Do I just simply back off the settings by 1?

 

Depending on the pad/polish combo you're using, you're not cutting as much as you think. The flex isn't llike a rotary that creates a good amount of friction. The goal is to use the flex to get the imperfections out and have a great foundation. This isn't a tool you'll be using every month, rather once every 12-18 months to keep things looking proper.

I'm assuming most of the swirls and scratches have come from improper washing or car wash, etc. Once things are corrected with the flex, you need to use proper wash mitts, towels, products, etc. to keep the finish looking great. So the next time you use the flex, you'll be using a mild polish like 106FA and a white pad to do the minor correcting from the light stuff that towels and mitts leave behind. Hope this makes sense.

 

Almost frgot, you can also try Menzerna's newest polish, PO203 Power Finish, which is a hybrid between Super Intensive and Nano Polish. It's a 1-step polish that has a cut and finishing ability. Depending on the condition of the paint, you may only need a white pad or an orange CCS pad. Pretty cool polish.

 

Thanks for your reply Moe.

The biggest issue I have really isn't swirls from washing technique. I'm actually very careful in my weekly washes...and use DI water with a leaf blower to dry the car. The issue I have is that my source water has over 30 grains or 580 ppm tds...and despite using DI, every once in a while, when the DI resin is saturated, I'm left with spots.

I use softened water through an iron filter, then feed this into my DI (instead of straight from the private well.) So I assume that most of my water spots are sodium based or silica. It's hard enough to leave spots that won't wash, but they do come off without using SIP or PowerGloss...usually PO85RD and some work with my PC is enough.

I bought the Flex hopefully to save me some effort.

Obviously, I need to watch my DI resin more carefully...

 

Bobby, thanks I believe you got all the answers you need correct.

 

If you have hard water, you will go through resin more rapidly. You can extend the life of the resin if you use a simple pressure washer from lowes or home depot. Usually, the pressure washer will triple the life of the resin. This is if you're using a CR Spotless with a 4 gpm output and the pressure washer has a 1.5 gpm output.

 

Moe:

What is the pressure washer you recommend? I remember you may have posted this before? Thanks.

 

Already thought of that...Home Depot special. Nothing else I can do....my water just sucks...

I just need to watch the tds more carefully.

 

This is probably THE reason why I won't do paint correction on my own and why I can't take the next step. Water in Columbus is basically dilute cement...the spots are just obscene.