Thought I should update everyone. 2010 GT3 has the same crappy LSD as previous generation according to Matt at GT gear as follow:

"I figured I would update this information here since this has kind of become the GT3 LSD resource thread. I just got in the first 2010 GT3 LSD that I've seen so far. Same part number as before. Same ramps as before. Pretty much the same thing. There's no change for 2010.

I also found some damage that I haven't seen before. I'll post pictures tomorrow. People frequently question why our gears and other parts cost what they do. A large part of it is because everything we make is from cnc billet. When I show you pictures of the cast factory ramps and what happened to them on just a couple thousand miles you'll see the difference between cast and billet."

 

At the beginning of this thread there is a picture and comment about removing a transmission cover. I looked at my 04 996 GT3 and I do not see this cover. Am I missing it or did the 04 996 GT3 not have this cover?

 

He means the sidecover on the gearbox. You can see it in picture number 3 on the first page. It's how you remove the differential from the gearbox.

 

[quote=GTgears;2806121]He means the sidecover on the gearbox. You can see it in picture number 3 on the first page. It's how you remove the differential from the gearbox.



I was asking about the lower body panel cover "Remove 4 screws securing the transmission cover then you can see the LSD cover on the driver side which is secured by 10+ bolts". It looks like it is made of black flex kind of plastic. Sorry I wasn't more specific.

 

I just read, great write up. Thanks.

 

I don't know what 6 GT3's plastic cover look like but it's basically the plastic under body tray that you need to remove to gain access to the LSD

Any time

 

Even though I don't own a GT3, thank you for this write up! One of the most thorough and concise examples of a great DIY!

 

That is a great write up.

Total newbie question for you tho... (I have an '07 Cayman S... no LSD, which is why I was reading)..

Anyway, I see the "bell flange" (the one w/ the center bolt you said not to use an impact wrench on)... I see how the drive shaft bolts back up to that w/ 6? bolts...

The piece I don't understand is what is keeping the bell flange in SOLID contact w/ the differential. The only thing I see in the pics is that center bolt... Obviously that can't be "all of it", because the drive shaft is bolted w/ 6 outside of that...

What am I missing?

 

You are right with your observation. I can't believe the drive shaft flange was only bolt to the LSD with one center bolt but it does the job somehow. I have check the flange couple times since I rebuild the LSD and so far so good.

 

More update from Matt on the 2010 GT3's LSD rebuild as follow

So here's a few photos for your review:



See the chip? See the hairline crack on the upper side that suggests that one is about to break off as well? At first I thought it was some weird fluke. But it's on 3 of the 4 posts!!!



Also, here's what the gears look like. See the pitting? The crazy thing is that I have brand few OEM LSDs showing the same inconsistencies in the gears. The spider gears are going to be the next thing to go on these LSDs. And this is one thing that's no different on a motorsports LSD. The same gears are used.



Lastly, I want to show you what happens when these get driven hard and are really done. While the mileage on this car is very low, this owner pretty much tracks the car and not a lot else. For reference, Mikymu's LSD had an internal gap of less than 1.6mm. That's pretty typical. I see them from a low of 1.3 or 1.4mm when brand new to around 2.0mm when worn out. This particular LSD had a 2.8mm gap!!!
And this is what happens with that gap. It gets hot. It gets really hot because the plates are just spinning in there and not biting on each other. This is what happens if you keep driving on it once it's worn out.

 

what da.... did somebody dropped that thing on the floor!?

 

If they did, it happened in the factory the LSD was manufactured in. There were no tool marks on neither the ring gear bolts nor the LSD cap screws that would suggest that the differential had ever been apart since the day it was first assembled.

 

LOL

They sure are awful looking for a crucial moving part in a track oriented Porsche

 

Hello,
I had a 996 GT3 LSD through the shop yesterday and figured I would use that to show you the differences I am talking about with respect to the inner gears that are going in these LSDs. There's already posted a 997 GT3 spider gear above. Below is the 996 gear. You can see that they used to be billet and properly ground, like a gear should be.

And here's the side gears, side by side. One is a used 996 gear and the other is a brand new 997 Cup side gear. In case it's not obvious, the lower gear is the 997.

The old style gears are definitely wearing better than the new cast gears they are using. I just put it out there because it's something you should consider for the future that you are going to need to service on these differentials. And it's not something that is resolved by upgrading to a Cup Car LSD. I've been getting asked a lot why someone should buy our $2700 LSD when they can get an 8 plate Cup Car LSD from Porsche for the same price. Well, this is the answer in pictures.
Something that would be worth exploring would be what exactly one gets if they order the side gear and spider gear service packs for a 996 LSD. If the old gears are what fall under that part number, it may be a cost effective way for people get the better gears in their LSD. But my gutt feeling on it is that like purchasing our gears separately, it's likely not cost effective and probably going to point people towards the direction of buying an all new LSD at the point that their spiders wear out.
Regards,
Matt

 

Chances are that was my 996 gt3 LSD. Matt had excellent turn around time on my LSD rebuild. He received it at 1pm and had it shipped out with ups the same day! I should have it all back in today.