Carrera GT oil change
Carrera GT oil change
Have a 2005 CGT, since I'm obsessive (and have had some 'interesting' luck with the quality of work at some P Dealers), looking at doing my own oil changes. Have a lift (4 post) and probably more tools than a porsche tech, so that's not the issue.
I have the workshop manuals coming from a wonderful person on rennlist, but they are being shipped from the other side of the pond, so it could take them some time. In the meantime, I'm impatient and had a few questions.
Can someone that has actually done this PM me some details? I am aware the rear underbody panels need to be removed to access the filter housing and the drain plug. I also am aware that they have specific torque specs, nothing difficult there.
- Do the rear wheels need to be removed to access the filter housing and the drain plug?
- Seeing some photos of under the car, which one is the drain plug for the engine oil? There seem to be two close to each other, I assume one is for the gearbox.
- Pulling the underpanel, draining the oil, replacing the filter, etc. What supposedly takes this job so long? I'm failing to see the labor intensive part, but I'm sure it's hiding somewhere?
I have the workshop manuals coming from a wonderful person on rennlist, but they are being shipped from the other side of the pond, so it could take them some time. In the meantime, I'm impatient and had a few questions.
Can someone that has actually done this PM me some details? I am aware the rear underbody panels need to be removed to access the filter housing and the drain plug. I also am aware that they have specific torque specs, nothing difficult there.
- Do the rear wheels need to be removed to access the filter housing and the drain plug?
- Seeing some photos of under the car, which one is the drain plug for the engine oil? There seem to be two close to each other, I assume one is for the gearbox.
- Pulling the underpanel, draining the oil, replacing the filter, etc. What supposedly takes this job so long? I'm failing to see the labor intensive part, but I'm sure it's hiding somewhere?
Just PLEASE make sure you strap the car down to the lift when you raise it. There is a very specific procedure required to lift that car otherwise you run the risk of it literally tipping off the lift.
Thanks for the heads up, Tom. I was aware that the rear lift point was dangerously close to the CG of the vehicle. I was planning on using a 4-post lift (drive on lift) assuming I don't have to remove the rear wheels to do the oil change, as that would be preferred (I don't have the torque multiplier to do the centerlock properly)
But yes, if I have to use my 2 post, I will make sure to strap down the front of the car, no question.
Tom, do you happen to know if the rear wheels need to come off to do the oil change? If so, I can start the hunt of getting a loaner torque multiplier.
But yes, if I have to use my 2 post, I will make sure to strap down the front of the car, no question.
Tom, do you happen to know if the rear wheels need to come off to do the oil change? If so, I can start the hunt of getting a loaner torque multiplier.
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All done with the oil change, it wasn't that bad, to be honest. Took about a total of 5 hours, but was going slow. It could easily be done without a service manual, but having the service manual didn't hurt to verify all screw locations, etc.
It just takes time because there are a TON of screws, I think it's right around 80, give or take 5, to get the pieces off. There are no shortcuts around that one, it is what it is.
If any other GT owners read this and need encouragement, feel free to PM me, I could walk you through it. Only tools really needed were a T30 torx (I have a stubby one which helps in some places), a T20 torx (there are 6 that require the T20), a 13mm socket, and a torque wrench (I have a nice little compact 1/4" drive torque wrench that did wonderfully)
The torque settings for all the underbody panels are 4.5ftlbs (6nm) and I also checked the strainer while I was at it.
And no, the rear wheels do not need to be removed at all. It only makes it mildly more difficult, but barely.
The 4 post lift, however, is a must. I can't imagine doing this on jackstands, or something to that effect.
It just takes time because there are a TON of screws, I think it's right around 80, give or take 5, to get the pieces off. There are no shortcuts around that one, it is what it is.
If any other GT owners read this and need encouragement, feel free to PM me, I could walk you through it. Only tools really needed were a T30 torx (I have a stubby one which helps in some places), a T20 torx (there are 6 that require the T20), a 13mm socket, and a torque wrench (I have a nice little compact 1/4" drive torque wrench that did wonderfully)
The torque settings for all the underbody panels are 4.5ftlbs (6nm) and I also checked the strainer while I was at it.
And no, the rear wheels do not need to be removed at all. It only makes it mildly more difficult, but barely.
The 4 post lift, however, is a must. I can't imagine doing this on jackstands, or something to that effect.
Do you have a photo of your CGT on the lift? Do you drive it on or use a winch? I bought the lift, but the car only has just 1-2 inches per side on the clearance..too tough to try and drive it on. It also seems that the spoiler will not clear. Congrats on the oil change...you have more patience than I (and obviously more time).
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