Hi all,

I just traded in my M3 and got a new GTR. Do I need to go easy on the motor for a while to break it in? Please excuse my stupid questions, I love cars but don't know much about them mechanically.

 

Go easy for the first 300 miles to break in the diffs; transmission and brakes. As for the motor, vary the rpm but only go for brief WOT when all fluids are nice and warm. Once you've reached the end of the factory break-in miles, continue to remember not to 'hammer' on the car until the engine/transmission oils are fully warmed up. Enjoy the car; it's a fantastic platform. And check out GTR Heritage for all your answers.
Bish

 

Don start launching the car at first, just let it build up

 

I echo the GTRheritage comment.

Yeah, even after a couple miles, I still wait until my temps are up a little (trans ~140deg) before I start going crazy. I warm up for a couple minutes (to get trans/engine temps up), then take it easy the first few gear shifts, then when it's all ready, have at it.

3Kings - the 2014 won't let him launch when the temps are too low.

 

What does the owners manual say? I would hope it reflects what the answers above are.

Wouldn't a company that hand assembles the engine in a negative pressure room and the transmission extra carefully assembled and maintained provide clear and concise instructions for the break-in?

 

My manual said to keep RPMs below 3000-4000 in all gears (or so - I don't recall exactly, it has been over 5 years since I cared) for first 500 miles. Then gears 4-6 I could run high RPMs for the next 500 miles. We were supposed to bring it to the dealer for the initial POS (around 1000 miles), then it was wide open throttle!!!

Don't listen to my exact mileage, because the recommendations have changed over the past few years...

 

You guys do know that they test the car out soon as its built right? For 20 or so miles they heavily test the cars acceleration and brakes on a road course. The car is constantly floored and the rotors get red hot. No need to a break in, its already done.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

That is exactly how I do my motorcycles and the twin turbo Cobra I drive now.

 

Yes. But if that were true, why would Nissan publish a completely separate procedure for breaking in the GT-R.

Yes, each GT-R is tested by appointed driver(s), for specific items, but there are still break-in procedures to follow (for diffs, trans, pistons, etc...). This period of time is when we'll see the most metal content in fluids that are changed for the first interval.

Anyone who says you can take the GT-R to the track right after you buy it, most likely doesn't own one.

 

For warranty purposes. Without that in writing, something were to happen to the car, they can bring it by so yeah, they have to put that in there just like with all vehicles.

The appointed test is for the motor, trans, brakes and suspension. Pistons do not require break in, its the rings on the piston to the cylinder wall that does. Acceleration and engine braking causes the gases from the cylinder pressure to mate against the cylinder wall for less blow by. This hard of driving will get rid of any gear burs and on the rings. IMHO, a full engine oil change is a must soon as you get it home. You saying whoever thinks you can take it to the track just because its a GTR and they don't own one is pretty ignorant. After this type of hard driving they do right off the assembly line, no easy driving isn't necessary. You can drive easy then hard which is fine for a break in but you can't go from hard to easy and think the break in will be better. Will more metal content still get into the oil after 5K miles, absolutely. Breaking an engine hard will not break the motor. Breaking it in on the track or dyno is actually better for the engine for sealing purposes. If the engine is going to break, it will do it on a hard break in or easy one.

Obviously nothing wrong with an easy break in but, there isn't anything with a hard break in either however, the hard break in is already done before it's delivered to the dealers. Ive done all my motorcycles along with my Cobra like this. My Cobra has 8.5 compression and all cylinders are in the 185psi range which if you know anything about motors, is higher than the norm with that low of compression. And no, I don't have total seal rings.

I bet that if you get a GTR (or any car) with one that was broke in hard vs easy, the hard one will produce more power than the easy one and the same reliability.

 

I don't disagree with much here (and yes, by pistons, you already knew it was more than just that - referring to the rings). It sounds like we are on the same page, but I'd seriously suggest going by the manual, as it explains this process in detail, and what is being broken in at what range of the process.

Regarding breaking hard or easy to compare is difficult, because of the hand-assembly of the motor, as well as the different piston compliments (1-2-3), selected by the engine builder (takumi). For those that have had an issue with the power, you know exactly what this means.

 

Oh I know, no problems with going by the manual at all, was just saying it didn't matter since they broke it in hard was all.

 

I'd like to see the differences vs. a hard broken-in motor vs. easy at 200,000 miles assuming factory maintenance is followed. Not applicable for sports/exotics due to excessive miles but it still could be very telling.

Also not all cars have a hard break-in, and I'm curious if hard break-ins are done on EVERY model off the production line.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "EVERY model"... If you're referring to the GT-R, then - yes, every GT-R runs through a gauntlet of tasks, to bed brakes, run RPM through a range, etc...

I know that no other Nissan goes through the same process.