Anatomy of Bose subwoofer enclosure
Anatomy of Bose subwoofer enclosure
There was a thread earlier inquiring about the subwoofer enclosures in the Panamera and since I had some time to burn, I figured I'd explore and provide insight.
The enclosure is held in place by 4 torx screws (T25 I believe), and you'll need an extension to get at the two closest to the rear bumper.
After removing the screws, you'll have to be careful to unplug the wiring harness connected to the sub (its on the rear of the enclosure).
It turns out that the housing is a single reflex bandpass box made from plastic
The speaker is held in place by 6 other torx screws as well. I'll let the pictures do the talking.
Enclosure Top:

Speaker in Housing:

Decided I would remove the speaker and take some measurements for myself and others in the future, and what do we have here? A Chinese made driver:

Driver measured:


For those like me that will consider replacing the driver I measured the depth of the enclosure as well:

You have about a solid 4 inches should you desire.
I put mine back together for now but I will be replacing the driver and lining the enclosure with either Raammat or Dynamat or something.
Hope this was helpful.
The enclosure is held in place by 4 torx screws (T25 I believe), and you'll need an extension to get at the two closest to the rear bumper.
After removing the screws, you'll have to be careful to unplug the wiring harness connected to the sub (its on the rear of the enclosure).
It turns out that the housing is a single reflex bandpass box made from plastic
The speaker is held in place by 6 other torx screws as well. I'll let the pictures do the talking.
Enclosure Top:
Speaker in Housing:
Decided I would remove the speaker and take some measurements for myself and others in the future, and what do we have here? A Chinese made driver:
Driver measured:
For those like me that will consider replacing the driver I measured the depth of the enclosure as well:
You have about a solid 4 inches should you desire.
I put mine back together for now but I will be replacing the driver and lining the enclosure with either Raammat or Dynamat or something.
Hope this was helpful.
Not quite sure yet, initially thinking of looking at some Dayton units that may fit. I should have measured the volume of the unit, but didn't
I'm sure you could replace it with something better, I would recommend against the Bose as it would likely take as much if not more time and effort to retro fit it in.
Keep in mind, if you are keeping the stock amp, that changing out speakers isn't just finding one that fits the size requirement.
All speakers are different, even if they are the same size physically. Some speakers are more difficult to "drive" and will throw off the synergy with the rest of the system.
Some speakers will also be louder at the same wattage, again, leaving the system out of balance, and unfortunately the audio system does not allow for much adjustment to overcome these imbalances. Anyhow, let us know how it goes.
Last edited by PanaTaco; Jun 18, 2016 at 02:07 PM.
Meanwhile bought the broken window master switch for 164$ had been using a superglue version since last so many months now hoping I can replace it without opening door panel.
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Keep in mind, if you are keeping the stock amp, that changing out speakers isn't just finding one that fits the size requirement.
All speakers are different, even if they are the same size physically. Some speakers are more difficult to "drive" and will throw off the synergy with the rest of the system.
Some speakers will also be louder at the same wattage, again, leaving the system out of balance, and unfortunately the audio system does not allow for much adjustment to overcome these imbalances. Anyhow, let us know how it goes.
All speakers are different, even if they are the same size physically. Some speakers are more difficult to "drive" and will throw off the synergy with the rest of the system.
Some speakers will also be louder at the same wattage, again, leaving the system out of balance, and unfortunately the audio system does not allow for much adjustment to overcome these imbalances. Anyhow, let us know how it goes.
Go for it!
Agreed. I should also note that the OEM Bose subwoofer is rated at 200Watts, I'm going to assume that's peak and not RMS. In any case I don't believe we need to over think the replacement of a paper cone sub with one suitable for a similar enclosure and power rating. I do agree with you though.
There has to be a first...so why not you?
Go for it!
There has to be a first...so why not you?
Go for it!Haha I would love to but it's difficult here in India with high end cars. Music system would often have to be ordered from another country so techs here won't have much clue unless I give them Visual info.
It was difficult for me to get LED package installed... I posted pics in another thread.. Took whole day.
Abroad I believe it takes 2 hours
No worries I will remeasure this week, currently mid suspension install (H&R) springs.
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