Rechecked all the connections and they are all secure. I can't clear the errors because they immediately reappear. The compressor from Suncore is due today. I will replace that and see if it clears the code, but I agree with you that it seems like the block is still the problem. The suspension worked for about 30 seconds and raised the rear to the high position but failed to raise the front at all and the failure message appeared after a delay where it seemed the suspension was trying to raise but did not move. I am very fortunate that the rear raised and held or I wouldn't have been able to get jacks under the suspension at all. My quickjack will not fit with the front slammed so I am working off of two floor jacks in the rear. I don't know if the rear will purge the air when I disconnect the compressor. If it does, I won't even be able to get the car off the jacks if the suspension still doesn't operate. If the compressor makes no difference, I am going to seek a replacement block. My PIWIS2 should be shipped today. If all else fails I will see what issues are present with a scan. From what you and others have told me, PIWIS2 should be able to identify the issues more specifically than my current scan tool. Hopefully I will update later today with success upon replacement of the compressor but I am not hopeful. The error comes up within seconds of turning the car on so it seems like an electrical failure somewhere since it doesn't even attempt to raise the suspension. Thank you for all your input!

 

Well, the Suncore replacement compressor was very high quality, came with another relay and was installed relatively trouble free. The bad news is that the suspension is still in failure mode. I am still getting the exact same errors. The one I think is the main problem is :

00120 Shock absorber valve FR, short to ground, low side

That sounds like the valve block to me. As far as I know, there is no valve in the shock/strut itself. When I disconnected the air line from the strut, the air leaked out, same thing when I disconnected the valve block. When I disconnected the compressor, no air leaked from any of the connections. Suncore has an aftermarket unit for $79 shipped so that is already inbound. It should get here about the same time as the PIWIS2 so I plan on swapping the valve block again and seeing if that fixes the issue. For $79 it is worth a shot. Rebuilt Master Tech will not replace the block without a report from the dealer that it is faulty. That is ridiculous since they sell the part to lay persons to install. If I went to the dealer, they would have replaced it, not me. I am going to wait until I see if the Suncore valve block fixes the issue and I am going to send the RMT unit back to them and ask for a refund. Let them test it. If the Suncore valve block doesn't fix the issue, hopefully the PIWIS2 will narrow it down.

 

when you disconnect the compressor it will not purge out all the air, but when you disconnect the distro block it will purge the line.

My dealers and indy shops will not put the suncore products in the car as they all had trouble with the car recognizing the components, they would only do OEM and Arnott.
It does sound like your distro block is bad, I had my entire suspension components recently replaced everythine was Arnott but the distro block that was a amazon special since no one had one in stock in time. That freaking distro block is doing the same thing as yours and i have a appointment to replace it but its 3 weeks out.

 

Thanks for the input. I’m hoping the Suncore block solves my issue. I’m going to let the Suncore pump installed and keep the oem unit as a back up. The block is now due on Monday. It is driving me nuts seeing the car disabled in the garage.

 

Well, the sun core block did nothing. I’m still getting the chassis system failure notice and now the rear end is slammed as well. I left the jacks underneath it well, basically because I couldn’t get them out so at least I can raise the rear end again if I need to. The PIWIS2 is scheduled to be here Thursday. Does anyone know of a crash course posted anywhere for PIWIS2? Any other thoughts? At this point I have replaced both front struts, the compressor, the valve block twice, and the relay three times. All the fuses are good. I can enable and disable the system because I can see that right before the chassis system failure warning comes up. I can’t make it do anything but I can at least turn it on and off.

 

PIWIS2 did not reveal anything new so I ordered a replacement front right shock. Turns out Arnott has a lifetime warranty so why not? If that doesn’t work I’m admitting defeat and having it towed to the dealer.

 

OK, at this point I feel like I’m talking to myself but maybe this will help someone else in the future. I ordered a replacement front right strut from rock auto. I’m glad I bought from them because there was an option right on my order to request a warranty replacement as the Arnott struts have a lifetime warranty. The new strut will be here on Wednesday. Since the car is hanging in the air anyway I removed the strut in anticipation of replacing it with the new one on on Wednesday. Like I said, if the replacement strut doesn’t clear the failure error I am giving up and having it flatbeded to the dealer. I’m probably going to have to have him put it on rollers under each tire since the suspension is so low I don’t think he will be able to get it up onto the flatbed. Fingers crossed that the replacement strut clears the error. At that point I have replaced everything possible that could be causing the failure warning except for computer components.

 

Success! Replaced the front right strut with a warranty replacement from Rock Auto. Cleared the codes. Let it run for about an hour and it seems to be back to normal. Oh and what I initially thought was the pump running every time I opened the driver's door definitely was not the pump. Something energizes but it aint the pump. I now have a spare pump and two spare valve blocks, oh and a $1,000 PIWIS2 that I didn't really need. Not for this project anyway. If anyone gets the following code it's the strut itself, not the valve block and just because something is new or almost new doesn't mean it isn't your problem.

"00120 Shock absorber valve FR, short to ground, low side"

 

Glad you got it fixed, thanks for sharing the info as this fix will surely help others!

 

@clc3251 So sorry I missed the boat so to speak.

Glad you got it worked out in the end.

 

Interestingly, the pump seems to come on for few seconds at almost every shutdown now. Not long, only 1-3 seconds, but it’s noticeable. I made sure all connections were secure. I will be checking for leaks next. It’s a constant struggle evidently.

 

So the technical instructions say to replace the air lines that plug into the struts. The alternative that I tried was cut off the little part at the end which had a little mar/cut in the line where the adapter bit into it to hold into place. (If that didn't make sense feel free to let me know and I'll try to clarify).

 

Exactly what you should do. Instead of replace (unless visibly deformed or damages on outside or at tip of line), take razor blade and cut 90 degree slice iff the tip. Use that to push into the connections.
FYI, these brass connections have two tiny o rings inside. Literally less than 1mm in thickness each. Super easy to rip especially if lines are mot prepared.
I ripped one in valve block. Ended up using brass connection from old block. Took apart suspect one and sure enough, one seal was partially ripped.
Compressor coming on each time means tank pressure keeps getting lowered. Try check or repeat aur lines from tank to compressor and from tank to valve block.
since you replaced shock, those connections are suspect too. Good luck. You're 99% there.

 

OK, I am officially at my wits end again. When I got into the car today I noticed the front end raised, indicating it had dropped a little in the last few days. So I thought I would redo the air connection for the front right shock. I did that and literally the only other thing I touched was the electrical connection right next to it since I had to remove it to remove the air connection. Car was supported and the strut aired right up after turning the suspension back on. Now I am getting the chassis system fault error. Previously I was getting the failure error. It will almost flicker on and off indicating to me an electrical problem. I plugged and unplugged and checked the connection several times and there does not appear to be anything wrong with it. Since it is the only electrical connection that I touched I figured it has to be the problem. Now I rechecked the air connection and when I did that it obviously let the air out and now it will not air up that strut again. I obviously have an electrical gremlin somewhere in the system. I should have left well enough alone and just let that pump come on occasionally. The suspension was working fine other than that. Extremely frustrated.

 

Gotta remember if you see errors it I'd from situations that jappened on past. If it was low and you fixed by wiggling connection, sensors were recorded at time connection got fixed. Easily can throw code.
bottom line, fix connection, clear codes while car engine off but power on. Then turn whole car off then on. Turn engine, let idle, allow compressor build pressure in tank. Don't rush.
Then car off again, scan for codes.