I guess it could be that you always park on a slope (or something) and hence it always activates as you get in, but ours does not activate every single time, but rarely. Maybe there is a very tiny leak somewhere. When I replaced one strut I cut off the end of the air tube so that the tip that was inserted into the new strut was perfectly smooth. (I think instructions say to replace the entire plastic tube but I don't know if everyone does that. One possible source it warns).

 

thanks, but it’s parked in a level garage.

 

Clc3251,

The two areas you should focus on are valve block and/or compressor.
Compressor should not be coming on every time you open doors. That's an indicator of leak in system.
if sports mode unavailable, it's likely due to valve block not opening or closing proper valves in time.
Without piwis2, cannot tell.
Air compressor makes pressure in system. It's the valve block that distributes the pressure air into or out of shocks. It must do so in specific time, or ecu thinks somethings wrong. The yellow chassis error indicates system does.not get inflated quickly enough. Either because compressor is not pressurized, or because valve block isn't adjusting correctly.

1st thing I would dwould replace relay to compressor. If worn out. It will make compressor work less.
cheap 15 dollar part.
Then, I would replace valve block. About 150 .
Last part to replace is compresor, about 400 bucks.
Without piwis2, that's what you're left with. Unless you have a way to enter diags mode and test valve block and compressor individually. I would retest the shocks too with doapy water. To see if you have a leak.
FYI, those small tunes which they tell you to replace, that the air lines go into? These tunes contain two seals inside them. The air lines are sealed by the seals around the lines. So not replacing them means old seals are re used. Those tiny seals are extremely easy to tear. I replaced one and it got torn by me insweting a line into it. Had to buy new one.


Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out.

 

Thanks. That was my plan. I replaced the relay and that had no effect. Next up is the valve block and then compressor. It's strange, the compressor kicks on for like 1-2 seconds every time I open the driver's door. It always does it and it is always for just a couple seconds. Is it possible I am hearing something else besides the compressor? Does anyone else's car make noise when you open the driver's door? It's not the seat and is definitely coming from the back underside of the car where the compressor is located. I am also going to recheck the connections on the front struts I replaced some time ago. I will report back when I receive the valve block and find a compressor. Everywhere seems to be out of stock on compressors and will only rebuild yours if you send it in. Anyone do a write up on replacing the valve block?

 

I made a write up while back 9n valve block replacement. You'd have to look around. It's under car , back, driver side. Loosen aluminum shroud, remove 2 bonds holding block to chassis, disconnect electric plug.
if you're not prepared, car will slam down when you loosen valve block air lines.
I place wood with rubber jack pad under front. The wood is short enough that after process, air shock inflating will lift car back up.. back is supported on 2 jacks to replace block..

 

OK, so the valve block replacement went fine. I disconnected the battery before I started. After reconnecting the battery and starting the car, the chassis system fault was gone. Hooray. Not so fast. The car was slammed to the ground after I lowered it slowly. I hit the chassis system raise button and it showed chassis system off. Hmmmmm I tried to turn it off before I disconnected the battery and did not get a message that it was turned off because the fault message trumps all. I guess it turned off. Anyway, I hold the button for 10 seconds and the system turns on. I hit the chassis system raise button and the rear end raises up but the front does not. After a few seconds, the chassis system fault message is back and the front end it still slammed to the ground. I checked with my code reader and found the following faults:

PSM: 002086 sport mode level control faulty, 00208A sport mode faulty
AC (air conditioner): C1209D Check gateway control unit fault memory content
GW (gateway): state current check A/C unit fault memory content, 000401 current distributor, terminal 30 reset
LCM (level control module) 000120 state current shock absorber valve FR short to ground low side, C12097 check air conditioner control unit fault memory content
RECM (rear-end electronics control module) C12097 check air conditioner regulator control unit fault memory content.

The air conditioner is working just fine. I checked the connections at both front struts and nothing seems out of order. I replaced both front struts last year with Arnott units and that cleared my previous fault message. I am just about to agree with my wife that this thing is not worth the aggravation and sell it. Unfortunately I have to get the suspension up an running no matter what.

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Oh and I don't think my compressor was coming on when I opened the driver's door. It sounds more like something energizing rather than the pump.

 

1. Turn ignition on, but not the engine, clear out all errors from car. Do few times if needed.

2. Turn car on, make sure suspension enabled. Then leave it on idling for about 20 to 30 minutes.
co.pressor will have to cycle few times, and ha e time to cool in between.

3. Check electrical connection to valve block (very hard to mate fully, I use plumbing pliers to squeeze them together. Make sure batt is disconnected before ypu unplug any connections.

Those are first coming to mind.
if not working, it's possible your air lines to valve block from front are not plugged in correctly. Air line connection should be minimally trimmed, outside free of any burrs, dents, etc. And very clean. The brass connection cannot be over tightened. I gayge its tightness from old unit I'm about to remove.. hope this helps.

 

Thanks but I did all that. The connection was hard to put in but I heard a click when I plugged in the electrical connection to the valve block. All the lines were slightly trimmed and put in with new fittings. Battery was disconnected for all the work. I disconnected the battery again and I am going to let it sit that way until I replace the compressor. I ordered a new compressor from Suncore because they were in stock and cheap. I generally don't go cheap but since I am just throwing parts at it at this point I didn't want to shell out like 2K for a new one from Porsche. When I replace the compressor I will check the electrical connection and air lines to the valve block again but I am fairly confident that they are correct. It's kinda hard to screw them up since there is a color on each connection that corresponds to the lines. I am also going to clean the electrical connections to the front struts and I may trim the air lines and refit them as well. I figure it can't hurt. I don't think there is anything else I can replace at this point other than computer modules that Porsche will have to replace. Can't drive it since the front end has no suspension at this point. It is fortunate that the rear end is sitting up because I can't get the quick jack under it with the suspension slammed in the front. I am going to have to just jack up the back end with two jacks enough to get at the compressor. If the compressor doesn't fix the issue I guess I will have it towed to the dealer.

 

"LCM (level control module) 000120 state current shock absorber valve FR short to ground low side"

Did I get a bad valve block?

 

Is this the PIWS2 scanner you keep mentioning? If so which version and which software? Thanks

https://www.vxdas.com/products/porsche-piwis-tester-2-piwis-ii-diagnostic-tool?variant=31468925845586

or this?

https://www.autonumen.com/goods-4738...hoCYFMQAvD_BwE

 

[The link you provided shows only the controller. Piwis2 is a whole computer that dealers use to do diagnostics on porsche cars.
it includes a laptop with software, controller you show, and cabling to connect car to them.
There are some out to buy, gotta look though and price for piwis2 is 500-800 bucks now.


QUOTE=clc3251;4907151]Is this the PIWS2 scanner you keep mentioning? If so which version and which software? Thanks

https://www.vxdas.com/products/porsche-piwis-tester-2-piwis-ii-diagnostic-tool?variant=31468925845586

or this?

https://www.autonumen.com/goods-4738...hoCYFMQAvD_BwE[/QUOTE]

 

Did you touch connections to the shocks? Electrical ones? Could it be one of them was not plugged in correct?
was the valve block an oem porsche part (continental), or aftermarket?
I had lots of issues once, had to replace valve block 3 times before all worked. Since then, only buy valve blocks made nit in China. There are some cheaper German ones that work well. Yes, it is possible the block is internally bad from new.

 

All connections are secure. Valve block is from rebuild master tech. This one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20214510715...&segname=11051

I am going to order this PIWIS 2 with the laptop. Looks complete.. If I'm spending a grand on a computer for this buggy I am keeping it haha. This one:

https://www.autonumen.com/goods.php?id=4738

 

Hard to say but looks like oem Part.
only other thing I would say, without more pd, I still say block.
it. Ypu can do is redo all connections. Air lines should not be pushed in forcefully. Should be pushed in about 10mm 8nto each connection. Each brass connection has 2 tiny seals inside. Easy to tear them, losing seal. Try to use brass connections from old block in place of those which stay slammed. Make sure all connections clean, even and sure. Disconnect batt before electrical connectors ate redone.

one more thing u can do is clear all errors,, then turn iff ignition,, then disconnect battery for about 1 hr. Then reconnect and start car to idle for 30 min.
Make sure to put something on trunk latch ir it will close and you will need batt booster to open it.