First time changing the oil on my 4S since I got it late last year, fairly straight forward and I had no "gotcha" moments. I then reset the OIl change reminder with a iCarSoft.
The trick for me getting the pan back on was to hook the front on (the only part that is above anything) and put the screws on either side in and start working my way back, keep the screws loose-ish until you get past the halfway point, by then everything should be staying lined up
Got 2 4.73L jugs of Mobile 1 0W-40 at Walmart for $22ea, manual stated with filter it takes 9.5L, worked out perfectly - oil plug is torqued down to 30nm and the oil filter cap is torque to 25nm
I couldn't find a torque setting for the cross brace bolts so I just snugged them done good.

this gives you an idea how far back you are going to have to crawl to get the pan off. you'll need a T-25 bit to remove the screws, you'll want something to put them in as there are a lot

Cross brace removed for access to oil filter, brace is held in place by 7 bolts, use a 13mm socket to remove

be prepared to get splashed with hot oil!

oil filter housing, you really have to push hard to get the new filter in place.

the iCarSoft is pretty easy to navigate








this one took me a few tries as I just scanned over the format instructions, so year month day

 

Nice write up! For anyone else coming along the steps are exactly the same in the turbo (and I suspect the S or any of the 4.8 models).

You didn't mention it, but a few things I've noted:

- The Mahn filters I got off of Amazon didn't include a crush washer - make sure you buy one if whether or not you replace your drain plug.
- The drain plug is aluminum and is "supposed" to be replaced each oil change. However, if you are careful with the removal and torquing you can easily replace it every other.

 

thanks tallpaul, yes you'll need to order a crush washer, the aluminum oil cap is of a pretty high grade, and as you stated if you're careful is good for multiple drains, I'm thinking I'll replace mine every other change.

 

Rather than removing the cross brace entirely to access the oil filter,
I removed all the bolts except the middle one, then just loosened the middle to allow the brace to swing around to provide access to the oil filter.
Not a big time saver, but made the oil change just a tiny bit easier.

 

cool, good idea, like you said not a huge change, but every little bit counts

 

Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
000-721-975-30 Socket Wrench Insert


got it at SunsetPotscheparts

 

I just spent almost two hours doing this oil change. That’s with the hydraulic QuickJack. That was probably the last time. I’ll pay $215 at a local indie shop next time. It’s just not worth the aggravation. Too many annoying steps like removing the damn underside panel.

 

Hey @Nikita4Ever! Don’t give up! Nobody will do it better than you! So satisfying letting every last drop of the old oil drain out before you fill it fresh! I use this little cordless screwdriver to remove the T25 screws holding the underbody panel. Works great and takes just a few minutes. You have a QuickJack too (I do it with ramps)! So many stories of auto techs not replacing all those T25 screws (lazy!) so just image what other things they are cutting corners on!

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/w...p.2992078.html