Yes, saw buildup on the valves. I will have to look into this and investigate. Dont have adapters for walnut shell blasting, so would cost me to get the setup. Will see how much shops charge to blast these. Taking intake is simple as you said (actually, very simple).
If they dont charge too much I may go with them. We will see. Have some poor pics, will post up when get time. Tinkering with car now. Looking for torque specs for intake bolts. FSM annoying me now.

 

15 ft. lbs (25 N*M)

 

At harbor freight, they have everything you need for the walnut blasting including the walnut.... you dont need any special adapters at all.. just a good shop vac..... Also, another GREAT alternative, is using the CRC Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner stuff... You can spray it on directly onto the CLOSED valves, and let it soak and it'll break up and clean up really well... Make sure you get the Coarse walnut. Ive done this many times and works out vreat. The harbor freight setup is about $100 with everythig.

 

If that is so, I will be sure to plan on doing this sometime in winter, on a nice warm day. I will be sure to be touching bases with you on this, as the valves were not super clean, and I hear this increases fuel mileage, etc.
Thanks for all help.

 

So the car is done. Took for a drive and man, I missed it.
After I put all stuff back, got into the car, tried to start, and - cluck, cluck, cluck, cluck. Nothing more.
Gave it about 20 seconds. Tried again, same noises. CRAP!!!

After panic subsided I started thinking. Sound is starter trying. Thats where the sound was coming from, area where starter is.
Got out, took out the DMM.
Placed across terminals of battery. Read 10.75V. WHAT?!!!!!
The battery was disconnected the whole time, inside the trunk. About 1.5 weeks. Why would it discharge.
Connected booster cables directly to the battery in trunk, from my minivan.
Car started right away, barely any sputter, even with the fuel rail removed.
Cleared out all errors with Durametric. All good. Took for a test drive, maybe 20 minutes. All worked perfect.
DONE.


When I had battery tested at Oreillys, they said it was good, but now, after seeing the voltage drop to 10.75V with nothing connected to the battery, makes me think the battery may not be holding charge well.
Anyone with insight will be greatly appreciated. Just replaced starter, and would hate to do anything to it with a bad or low charge battery.

 

AGM batteries are pretty much toast if they get pulled below 11V

time for a new one

 

Say it ain't true, say it ain't true!
Well, deed inside I knew I will likely have to swap the batt. in addition to the starter. Crap. There goes couple hundred more bucks.

 

Ciaka and Friends... Holy crap have a dealt with a couple of dead batteries from Oreillys as well as Autozone.... For some reason, I always have these issues dealing with AGM batteries(BMW cars previously) and just dealt with a dead brand new battery.... I think you should still be under warranty Ciaka...

 

Also, be careful not leaveing the battery too low either.... Ive had to help a few friends with their DME's needing to be reset(physically program) because they let the voltage drop too low, and/or too many attempts at trying to start the car... Keep it on a trickle for now and if you had to buy a new battery all over again I highly recommend getting it from PepBoys(as they have the Bosch ones there in stock).

 

My battery now us Bosh. I went to O'Reilly's to test it. They said it's good, but I call bs on that now.
Wilk check out pep boys. Do u think they would honor warranty for one I have? Dated mid 2017.
Just wondering.

 

Damn, no, they wont warranty that... However, on each of those occacisions that I brought it in, it would show 12.0v on their machine, however, the batteries did not have enough power to crank the starter. Im stuck with an extra dead battery as well.

 

I believe this is true although I am not at home to verify the voltage. (Toyota used AGM batteries in Prii because they were placed inside the passenger compartment/in the trunk similar to Porsche). The instructions on testing note a voltage below which you should replace, and IIRC it’s below 11 V as DogWood notes.

The Toyota testing instructions note this as “surface charge”. Once you turn off the car or battery charger, (their) instructions note to run the high beams for 30 seconds to remove this surface charge, after which you measure voltage at the battery + and - terminals to check if the battery is good. The battery in the Panamera is much larger though, so maybe extrapolate to 1 minute?

 

I will have to try that test.
Haven't replaced yet, driving car daily so it gets topped up, but overnight I notice voltage drops from 12.6 when car parked, to about 12 or 11.8 in morning. That's looking at cluster info.
Thanks.

 

After I replaced my battery I monitored it for a few days, it would only drop about .01 to .02V in a 24 hour period - measure with a multi-meter at the jumper points under the hood
I was afraid that there was a large draw on it since it died so abruptly, but monitoring it showed that to not be the case.

 

I drove the car for about 45 minutes today. Then parked. Cluster said 12.6V.
Turned car off. Turned on high beams for 1.5 minutes.
Measured with DMM, voltage across terminals of batt in trunk.
Measured 12.4V.
But when I drove car to work today, am, cluster said 12V, drove for about 45 mins, parked for about 8 hours, when came to car, cluster said 11.8 V.