I had sent an issue ticket to Foxwell regarding the NT644 Pro not clearing all the codes maybe a week and a half ago. They asked me to return it, and recommended the NT510 Elite for Porsche. I ordered it through Amazon, same seller and like before serviced by Amazon, shipped the NT644 Pro back to Foxwell.

Just finished replacing the HPFP, and got everything back together. Started the car, and it runs exactly the same as before I replaced the HPFP! What a waste of time, energy, and money!

So, following the Porsche instructions I deleted the high fuel pressure adaptation. Great, this $179.85, before discount, tool does a lot more than the old one! But it's specific to Porsche. (I won't mention I was acttually sent a Chrysler tool. While they noted last night they could help me change to Porsche, I noticed Chrysler software is actually more expensive than Porsche. I did not hear back from them yet. Ahh phewey, I paid $60 and downloaded the Porsche software, hence I am able to diagnose and work on the car. Now the car runs EXTREMELY ROUGH and STALLS either very quickly after starting or immediately upon firing up.

I pulled the DME/relevant codes:

P1027- Fuel high pressure fluctuates (Upper limit value exceeded)
P0344- Bank 1 intake camshaft sensor (Upper limit value exceeded)
P0349- Bank 2 intake camshaft sensor (Upper limit value exceeded)

On the bright side the car has a brand new FCP Euro lifetime warranted HPFP
On the down side it's now not even running and I don't know what else it needs? Camshaft sensors?

Sigh. Thanks for your patience and thoughts.

There is another pump in the tank that feeds fuel to the HPFP. If that goes bad, it can cause the HPFP to also not perform correctly.

The chances of both banks having the sensor go out at the same time is really low unless you had a power spike run through that part of the system. The easiest way to test them is with an oscilloscope, but my guess is you do not have one laying around. Does your tool read live-data?

Hi. Thank you for the response!
Yes, it appears to read live data.
I don't have an oscilloscope, but the tool does appear to record live data. What data should I record please?

I'm thinking of clearing these codes and trying to run the engine again. Do you think it has anything to do with mixing 100 octane racing fuel (from 76) with 91 to approximate 93 or a little higher? Since having trouble I've been trying to improve the octane hoping it would help.

Your note about a power surge reminded me, I have a NOCO G7200 I kept connected to the jump points under the hood to prevent the battery from dying. Is it possible leaving it there fried the two cam sensors?

So I cleared the codes, removed the NOCO charger, then started it. Engine cold starts right up and all seems fine. When coolant temp reaches 175 F engine starts idling rough. When the oil temp goes up to 150 F engine idle is worse. It progressively gets worse as oil continues to warm up. Can't recall but at some point Start Stop disabled shows on the display. Around 175 F oil temp engine stalls.

Forgot to read the codes...

​​​​​​P1024- Fuel high pressure too high after engine off (Upper limit value exceeded)
P1027- Fuel high pressure fluctuates (Upper limit value exceeded)
U0418- Check PSM control unit fault memory content

​​​​​​See another one but full code doesn't display on the computer:
Selector lever Control System
0563- Limit value exceeded (Upper limit value exceeded)

Since your codes appear to change randomly, has the PCM gotten wet? Check every single wire underhood in the harness, too.

It sounds like your car goes south when it enters closed-loop, and then there is a fueling issue that scales with the engine temperature. The fueling normally changes as the engine warms up, but yours may be taking it to an extreme based on bad data to the PCM, or the PCM not handing the data correctly.

Thank you for this insight! I'm afraid I don't even know where the PCM is? No, no washing of the engine bay. My goal was to clean the area once I had disassembled things to the point I was ready to remove the HPFP, but I was worried of all the open items and it looked pretty clean around the area.

Yes, the codes seem to change on me. I am going to try to clear them today and start her again. Hopefully the codes are repeatable now. (They changed after deleting the high fuel pressure adaptation. AND the engine runs EVEN WORSE!)

I'll see if I can get the same codes to come back...

There is a batch of electronics in the back of the car, where a spare tire would normally be. Maybe check back there too

Thank you.

The back was dry/clear. I've replaced the battery in the last two to three months, after March 13 that is. I also retorqued the neg and positive terminals once I found the torque value. No evidence of water intrusion to that area.

It's HOT today, 98 F on the display. I plugged in the NOCO G7200 and set it to "Supply" mode, 13.6 V at 5 A. I got in and turned the Ig-ON without pressing the brake pedal. I was immediately greeted with "Reduced Engine Power". I think I saw that last time in charge mode, but forgot to mention. I pulled the codes.

DME:
P1024 (old/repeat)
P1027 (old/repeat)
P0190- Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input (Upper limit value exceeded)
Transmission:
U0418 (old)
PSM:
C12086 (not clear the letter in front)- Fault in control unit for electric parking brake
Selector lever Control System:
P0563- Limit value exceeded (Upper limit value exceeded)
​​​​​
So I cleared all these, pulled off the NOCO, and restarted. It was idling a little rough from the start. I couldn't bear the heat inside so I left it running in the driveway and went in to have lunch. Eventually the engine stalled.

I pulled these codes...

​​​​​DME:
P1024
P0190
Transmission Control System:
U0418

That's all she wrote.

Anything else I might check please?
​​​​​​

A few hours later I came out to try to see if I can get repeat codes. Cleared them. Upon trying to start it would fire like it was about to start but immediately shut off. Tried several times and it would fire, I'd release the key, and then immediately or very quickly dead. No DME codes for a while.

Several more starting attempts revealed P1024.

This problem sounds like something that your scan tool is not able to decipher. It may be time for a shop to plug it in to PIWIS

Today I got in, turned it to Ig-ON, engine off, to clear the codes. When I go on to start I am immediately greeted by Engine Start-Stop disabled. Let the engine run for quite some time by sometimes revving the engine up to or slightly past 3k RPM, and putting it in Sport mode. When I finally shut it down I read the one code, P1027- high pressure fluctuates if I remember correctly.

Yes, thank you. Already asked the wife if it's okay to bring it to the dealer for a $275 diagnostic. Then whatever is suggested I may do myself...

I promised myself if I ever caught the PIWIS III clone under $1500 that I would buy one! Just now I saw it for $1429 @ vxdiagshop. Now to wait for it and see what kind of tax/tariff I get slapped with.

AC unit that supplies the bedrooms failed. (I wonder if my washing the condenser had something to do with it). Hope I can sort it before bed time...

Great! Quick question - Why did you get the III over the cheaper II? . Not criticising, just wondering.
A user called rbrunelle over on rennlist rebuilt a flooded Panamera and his a great write up. He has both versions.

In experience with clone Toyota products in the past I found the clone systems quite SLOW. This version requires a higher spec computer so I hope it’s faster as well. (It’s been hot here and sitting in the car with AC off because I care for her more than me I’d like to get the diagnostics done quicker).

From the store’s information you can add all the other brands to the PIWIS III, but you can not add PIWIS III to the older systems, need a new/more powerful computer. If I find I need version III I will be stuck with two systems, with some duplicate cost.

I get instructions for jobs direct from Porsche Tech Info using the $15/hour subscription. On a couple of repair jobs I see PIWIS III, and not PIWIS II. I do not want to spend $$$ on PIWIS II, then find out I need III.

Order status changed to shipping soon. I could have brought to the dealer, wife approved, they’d give me a loaner, but last time charged me $5xx dollars. This was for two days diagnosis and reset throttle adaptation. It ran silky smooth on the way home and lasted about a week, before trouble arose again. I do just as good work, her nickname is “check engine light once a week!”

My wife would not be happy with this! Nor would I by that matter....