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The fitting next to the coolant hose may be the easiest to see. Here is my engine after I had pinned the coolant fittings. You can see the head of the allen head screw in the circle. Basically you should see a screw or weld in this area.
Later, Steve
Weird. My engine looks different. Mine has a car around it.
Thanks for the picture! - I'm going to take a look tonight
Stock except for tune/exhaust/headers. 58k miles. Catastrophic failure today... PSM saved my behind when they let go... back end got all out of shape. Damn failure could've killed me.
Stock except for tune/exhaust/headers. 58k miles. Catastrophic failure today... PSM saved my behind when they let go... back end got all out of shape. Damn failure could've killed me.
Damn, that sucks...glad you didn't bin it. Also glad I'm getting mine done now while the motor is out.
Was it the fitting at the "water neck" coming out of the driver's side cylinder head?
Reason I ask is that I recently read through all of the documentation on this issue at the NHSTA and in Porsche's opinion (with which the NHSTA concurred), the fitting most likely to experience failure is the curved pipe coming out of the water neck.
I've read through all of the threads and simply can't decide whether it's worth investing the $3K+ to R&R the engine and have all of the fittings addressed via pinning or welding (another big fork in the decision tree), or just proactively replace the water neck (part no. 99610603973 on 996's) that is most likely to fail. Or just wait until failure, if ever, and get it repaired then.
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I've read through all of the threads and simply can't decide whether it's worth investing the $3K+ to R&R the engine and have all of the fittings addressed via pinning or welding (another big fork in the decision tree), or just proactively replaceQ the water neck (part no. 99610603973 on 996's) that is most likely to fail. Or just wait until failure, if ever, and get it repaired then.
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IMO wait until the engine has to come out and weld or pin the fittings then.
I replaced mine when a small o-ring let go on top of the engine the only way to replace the o-ring was by removing the engine, while it was out I replaced the coolant pipes.
Funny thing was that as they were removing the engine two coolant pipes fell off all by themselves, luck seemed to be with me that day for a change
Buy a set of the pipes and keep them on the shelf on standby until an engine out event comes around.
Was it the fitting at the "water neck" coming out of the driver's side cylinder head?
Reason I ask is that I recently read through all of the documentation on this issue at the NHSTA and in Porsche's opinion (with which the NHSTA concurred), the fitting most likely to experience failure is the curved pipe coming out of the water neck.
I've read through all of the threads and simply can't decide whether it's worth investing the $3K+ to R&R the engine and have all of the fittings addressed via pinning or welding (another big fork in the decision tree), or just proactively replace the water neck (part no. 99610603973 on 996's) that is most likely to fail. Or just wait until failure, if ever, and get it repaired then.
When I lost mine, it was the area you are referring to.
His fitting was on passenger side in the PS pump area (attached pics).
FWIW, if you are mechanically inclined, I pinned my car without removing the engine completely- disconnected mounts and lowered it a few inches was all it needed. It was harder than basic maintenance, but certainly wasn't the most challenging thing I've ever done.
I wouldn't replace it with a new factory part... Porsche never addressed the problem from my understanding. As far as pinning vs welding, plus and minus to each method I suppose. There's a lot to read on that topic. I chose to pin given the information out there and for simplicity sake.
Depending on how you use the car and what your acceptable sphere of risk should determine your method going forward. If you track, auto-x, drag race, or push the car hard regularly... Do it. Too much at stake to leave it untouched should something go wrong IMO.
Mine failed driving home from work after my first track day, cruising steady state on the freeway. My friend's car has 110k miles, original owner, never been tracked, no modifications, it failed sitting in traffic; he said he had barely been above 3k rpm that morning. This week is our first hot weather of the year up in our area, maybe a coincidence?
the fitting most likely to experience failure is the curved pipe coming out of the water neck.
This makes sense as those fittings experience additional torque and leverage on the glue joint. GT3's pop these same fittings left and right.
For the two curved pipes, I elected to pin and JBWeld with just a fillet of epoxy at the junction. Worked out nice and it gives the pipe a little more support.
The two curved pipes are relatively easy to reach with the motor in the car to epoxy. I would do at least those.
While those two are the most likely, the straight ones have been known to fail as well.
