pwdrhound or pete95zhn a slightly o/t question for either of you. what type of fasteners are you guys using to attach the side panels from the 997gt3 underbody? i have all the panels but havent installed them yet.

 

Kind of rivets that have long threaded pin that's left above the surface. Needs a spacer to your rivet tool. Easy to make out of a piece of round bar of alu or steel. Aluminium, only available from Porsche. (I have the part number somewhere in the garage.) Then use OEM plastic nuts. Be careful when tightening, that aluminium is not very strong. OTH, if you have welding machine, use those weldable threaded pins.

 

no welder . are they as strong as the oem pieces that are already on the car? only 2 have broken on mine in 13 yrs

 

I cut the side panels off on both the 996 and 997 underpanels. I then riveted the 996TT side panels to the 997GT3 under panel. The 997GT3 "hybrid" panel then bolts right up to the existing under car locations. Simple...

 

not sure i visualize that. i have a host of underpanels both 996 and 997gt3. my understanding was the 996 center panel was the only one used and the side panels connect to it easy enough but mounting them to the side of car was my concern. dont want to get to far o/t from your thread john

 

Maybe we're not speaking the same language Steve. What do you mean by "side panels"? I only changed out the rear panel to the 997GT3 version as that is the one that has the NACA scoops that divert air to the rear brake caliper ducts. You can also add the aft most triangular 997 under panel to the 996 which never came with one.

 

i have a left and right side panel that connects to the center panel effectivly flat bottoming the entire underside. 997gt3 side panels

 

Gotcha. Yeah, I didn't mess with the paneling in the forward section of the car. Only the rear.

 

John side note on the adjustable cup pca. In the rear, how much can you widen before you run out of cv shaft adjustment? I'm guessing if you had to you could space the cv after trans mount

 

It's a non issue in the rear Freddy as you are not actually widening the track, only adjusting camber. Any additional track width will come from the selection of wheel width and offsets but you are limited there with what you can stuff under the fender. 13" wheel with ET45 is about as wide as you can go with tightly rolled fenders and trimmed at the fender / bumper junction.

You install the PMNA LCAs with just a single shim each because you still use the eccentric bolt to adjust your camber. With a single shim the 997RSR LCAs are essentially the same length as stock, actually a couple of mm shorter. On one side you install the Xenon bracket shim and on the other you will install a 1mm spacer shim to keep both sides equal length. The eccentric bolt gives you plenty of adjustment easily in excess of -3 degrees or more depending on your ride height. Min camber would probably be slightly under -2 degrees, again depending on ride height.

 

Going beyond camber adjustment you'll need to use spacers between drive shafts and transmission. Then, of course, you'll need adjustable UCAs and thrust arms. Planning to go that way.

 

Well I have adjustable dog box arms right now, should add toe and thrust maybe to the list this year.

Only as because if I widebody the car, widening the track instead of just very high offset wheels would give better suspension control imo. Mostly just thinking out loud here

 

Changing the length of the dog bones will alter the suspension kinematics. Make sure you use a shop that is knowledgeable with setting up race suspension on these cars and that can check your bump steer through out your suspension travel after you've make what ever changes you make. Changing stuff may seem innocent on the surface but can easily make handling get ugly in a hurry.

 

So, is this the reason for to use these flares or not?

 

Not...those look terrible IMHO.