CJV,

Does the GT3 oil pump bolt on in place of the standard TT pump? Are any other mods/adjustments necessary to make this change? How difficult is it to change the oil pump?

Thanks,

Craig

 

Still waiting for your response..

 

I have never installed a GT3 oil pump. I used the GT1 pump. I understand there is a little machining involved for rod clearance. The pump change isn't easy as you need to remove the motor and break it down.

 

I am strongly considering installing the Carrillo rods. When I have the engine apart, what other weak links should be replaced? Head studs? What else? What are the second, third and fourth weakest links, after the rods?

Thanks,

Craig

 

There is a clearance issue with the Rods, not the pump. The stock pump would have to be profiled to clear the 3/8 bolts. We have had to do that on all of them.

 

Craig,

It depends where you are going power and rpm wise.

1) Stronger Rods
2) Larger diameter rod bolts
3) Wettable dry lubricating coating of bearings
4) GT3 or GT1 oil pump
5) GT3 Crank
6) Shuffle Pinning the case

You also can machine your heads for metal o-rings but then then there is a whole lot of things that can be done to the heads. If you are going to move the redline up, there is many things that need to be replaced.

 

Glad to see someone really take these cars to the limit!!

 

Hey Stephen,

We got you back into the discussions again. Must have peaked your interest?

 

K24madness,

I have been accussed by a few who don't know me of being a garage queen.

 

But you are not machining the rods or the rod bolts.

 

I can attest that cars anything but a garage queen! One look and one would know this car gets driven! Granted there have been some extented stays at S CAR GO but them be the breaks when thinking outside the box.

 

Oh I am always around. Just busy these days. Just returned from Sunny FL

No machining to the rods or bolts. The clearance is to two sections of the oil pump. Doesn't matter what pump GTIII, GTI or even the original 964 pump. As the rod passes the top of the pump on the sweep the force and expansion will tap the top of the pump. Not much, but it doesn't take much to drive a hole through the pump OR shove the rod into the bottom of the bearing and destroy the liner then kill the bearing. Leave it to long and it will pinch and go out the side. A little filing and the issue is taken care of. When Carrillo sends the rods they should provide a TSB with it to show the profiling marks. If not then I will show you one I have in the shop.

 

Hey Stephen, are you going to be at the shootout in November?

As for the oil pumps ....... agreed.

 

Stephen,

So what is your opinion as to what will be my next weak link? I definitely know there will be one.

 

Do you think a motor similar to yours WITHOUT nitrous would bend rods? I assume there are several people who have, or are considering, motors similar to your's, who are now paranoid. If the limit is 550-600 wheel HP what "stage" is that?
If the rods are bending at mid RPM when max torque/cylinder pressure is produced, should the midrange boost be limited a little to protect the (stock) rods?
If the rod bending is aggravated by the rapid drop in RPM when you dump the clutch might a heavier flywheel be protective?