cjv,

I'm assuming the big advantage of the bigger turbos is their greater efficiency at higher airflow levels ie no need to overspeed them and go to points on the compressor map that are less efficient and generate too much heat.

I guess you can always leave the NOS in at all RPMs to help the cooling effect, since the TT is hard to fit with really huge intercoolers.

Heres a pic of the intercooler used in two of my Skylines (this is a single entry version) held by my engine builder:



And a pic of the 3037s:



The car (under new owners) recently ran 1015bhp at the wheels on a Dunapack and has trapped 155mph on the quarter, but has yet to break into the 9s due to traction issues.......

It has never been fitted with NOS and has huge turbo-lag as only 2.7 litres are driving the turbos ie no boost until 5500rpm then insane power.......

Guy

 

For some reason I thought you had GT3 heads. What did the knocking noise turn out to be? Do you think that Turbo variable cam lift heads can turn high rpm (8000) reliably? It seems like the GT3 valve train would be much more simple and reliable.

 

Guy,

I only wish I had that much room. That isn't to say there isn't extra room. We did a pretty good job with the extra room available.







Regarding traction, I believe that is why we broke the last motor, Tilton 4 disc 1000 hp clutch, 3.16-1 tranny gears, beefed up axles/drive line. 10" wheels on 275's up front and 12.5 wheels on 335's in the rear. Something had to give.

 

ebaker,

You are confusing my two motors. The stock internal motor is the one that broke. The other motor had some prototype issues. What we are presently doing is building off what we learned with both motors.

We have not found the failed part yet. Hopefully Monday or Tuesday. We will post pics when it is found.

The GT3 Cup heads are designed to turn 8100 rpm's. The GT3 Cup motor utilizes a variable cam.

 

Any idea of the rpm capability of the stock valve train, possibly with stronger valve springs?

 

About 6700 rpm's. I have pushed mine to 7400, but it wouldn't last there very long. The Cup's valves, keepers, lifters, springs and cam are different as to design and materials used.

 

We made plans today as to extra steps to making this motor live longer along with keeping the temperatures down. We have choosen to make extensive usage of certain coatings.

We decided on four types.

1) Thermal Barrier Coating (TBC)
2) Solid Dry Film (SDF)
3) Heat Reflecting Coating (HRC)
4) Oil Repellant Coatings (ORC)

Parts that will use TBC are:
a) Combustion exposed surfaces of pistons.
b) Combustion exposed surfaces of valves.
c) Head exhaust ports.
d) Bottom surface of intake injector block.
e) Hot side turbo housing.

Parts that will use SDF are:
a) Piston skirts.
b) Valve stems.
c) Bearings.
d) Oil pump gears.
e) Cam.
f) Lifters.

Parts that will use ORC are:
a) Internal case walls after boat tailing.
b) Bottom of pistons.
c) Interior of valve covers.

Parts that will use HRC are:
a) Hard piping inductive air after intercoolers to throttle body.
b) Splitter.

 

Well, it looks like I will have to eat a little crow. I said I have never heard of a 996tt motor that bent a rod. Well, S Car Go found my ticking noise today. It was a bent rod on the number two cylinder.

I knew we were leading the pack on power output, well now we are leading the pack for bending a rod. Whose going to be next?

I hope to have some pics to share this evening.

 

heheh good one!!! LS1 Camaro guys that drag race ALWAYS end up bending a push rod

Sorry about the cost tho... Man that stuff and your wheel going poof...

 

sharkster,

Lots of LS1 Camaro's bend rods. What other 996tt is putting enough power to the ground to bend a rod?

When are you going to join the "cjv 996tt bent rod club?"

The new Killer Angel motor will make the old motor look like a walk in the park. S Car Go is gunning for a true 996tt. That is 996 rwhp.

 

Maybe she should be named Suicide Angel? What good is leading the pack output if the car spends 90%+ of it's time in the shop (er: R&D) before grenading?

 

Hey, a VW Bug could be dangerous in the wrong hands. Regarding the second question, good point if it's your daily driver.

 

At least it didn't throw the rod.
What HP/boost/RPM levels did it take to bend the rod? Was it street or track use? Was the crank, rod bearing, piston or cylinder damaged? Are you going Carillo or titanium next?

 

ebaker,

You are right about throwing a rod. Had we thrown a rod most of the motor would have been scrap.

Don't know about the hp as we were stressing it just prior to the dyno run and it had new turbo's. My guess would be 680-750 rwhp. The boost was limited to 1.3 bar max. The big difference was the power getting to the ground. The car had just been modified as to clutch, axles, cv joints, tranny, wheels and tires. Right before she broke the G tech recorded a 0-60 of about 1.9 seconds.

The only damage according to S Car Go was the rod although the crank was rubbed by the bent rod (this is probably where the ticking sound was coming from) and S Car Go said they would not reuse the number two piston again. I understand the bearings and the cylinder linings were fine. Hope to have some pics to share soon.

None of the parts are going to be an issue. They will all be spares for a stock motor. I have an extra set of stock rods that Elliott750tt gave me when I sold him some Ruf titanium rods and I had to buy a new stock piston to send to Wossner in Germany when they made my 104 mm turbo pistons and liners. We currently have a new GT3R crank, Carrillo rods, Wossner 104 mm pistons and a GT1 oil pump for the bottom end of the new motor.

Based on my experience, if you run much over 600 rwhp and find a way to make the power stick to the ground, you better go with stronger rods.

 

I think my tranny will go out before that happens.... We'll see I guess... I do need some rods though. We're going to do those