Yes ....... based on my experience and to the best of my knowledge .... but, it could be that there are exceptions. If in doubt, it's pretty easy to crawl under the car specific car you're working on and you can see the rubber bulging out if it's there. You can look closely at the pictures of this car's subframes and you can see what the solid ones look like. If I get a chance in the near furture I'll try to take a pic of a car with rubber... or maybe someone else out here with a stock setup can take a pic of their's and post it...

 

Then im sure i have the soilid ones, becouse i have looked at a turbo and i did se the rubber bulging out, but on my gt2 i only se solid busches, i thougt maybe it was rubber inside them

 

what is the advantage of the solid mounts?

less movement...which will lead to a stiffer chassis over all

 

Yup.. you're good to go... that's all solid... Now the next trick is you can have your side supporst machined down on top to RSR specs and you basically have the same thing at that point. I will pick up your roll center and help flatten out your camber curve that grows too much when these cars get too low.

 

In a sense yes. There are some different places that you can replace rubber with solid mounts. In this case it's the side supports that tie the entire rear suspension to the chassis or Tub. So when it's mounted with the solid mounts those sub frames can move and now act more like roll cage strengthening bar. Also Under hard cornering it possible to flex the rubber enough to allow the entire sub frame to actually twist in a turn taking away the precise feel that you want when you are at 10/10's. When you're driving to the Drug Store... the rubber gives it a more comfortable ride and the chassis is not trying to twist in the same way. Another thing about the these mounts is that it allows you to raise the supports upward once again helping to raise your roll center as well. On the really low cars this is a good thing...So, if you're going really fast ... there are a lot of reasons to go to these solid mounts.

 

Cool thanks for the explanation..

Rod

 

Cary,

Since he has a GT2, isn't just better to replace the uprights with the street GT3-RS uprights, which are the same as RSR spec? You get a lighter upright since it's made with a hollow magnesium alloy (less unsprung weight), as well as double strut mounting which appears more secure.

In the rear, my understanding is that the uprights are largely the same except for the hollow Mg alloy aspect, however the mounting points can be changed with the rear subframe from an RS street version or RSR? I also heard your A-arm links can do the same trick too.

 

You guys are great!

 

Wow. Beautiful car. Those tires are hugeeeeee and they look like they grip like no other.... Thanks for sharing!

 

There are several different GT3 uprights that use the same casting but the pick up points and brake mounts vary. The GT3-RS is not raised as high as the RSR but much higher than stock. I have a special strut that allows me to even use those on AWD Turbo's which I've done for a hand full of car's including my own. I went out and weighed some bare uprights and found tha the 996 Turbo upright is 3000 grams and the lightest GT3 RS was 3500 grams. I didn't have a bare stock 996 upright but, I did have on of the original 996 stock uprights that I had welded... extended and modified (it is the one I built for the factory car before the made the new style parts) and it was 3500 grams as well which meas it would for sure be lighter that the GT3 RS part. While they are not lighter, for sure they have much better geometery and are much stronger. Keep in mind that it is a MUCH larger part. I'm also pretty sure the GT3 uprights are just cast aluminum and not mag because I've machined them and welded on them and it sure doesn't act like mag. While there could be some special mag ones somewhere in the world.. I do believe these parts to be aluminum.

When you're talking about "double strut mount" do you mean the double pinch bolt? and yes.. I agree.. they are MUCH stronger..

As far as the rear goes the geometry of the GT3 hollow uprights are significantly different from the stock GT2, maybe even more so than the fronts as long as we are talking about a 996 part number.

As far as the differernt sub frames.. you are right in that you can change the roll centers buy changing the mounting points. While there are several versions of these be careful to check closely on which ones you use because the racing ones changed almost every year. It's almost best to machine the ones alread on the car to get exactly what you're looking for ... that's all the factory did.

As far as my rear links, those can be used to adjust bump steer but, they won't change the roll center...

Hope that info is helpful

btw.. good to hear from you and see you on the board!

 

Right after I hit enter I realized we're really getting off the subject of this thread. I'm happy to discuss this stuff but, if we continue maybe would should start a new thread on "geometry and pick up points" or something like that so we aren't deviating from this thread so much. I can't promise how much I can participate right away because I'm working pretty hard at the moment on my own stuff and preping two World Challenge cars that 911 Design will be taking to Sebring. After we get back I'll have a little more time and will do the best I can. thanks..

 

just more admiration for your project. I'm stoked for still more pictures/videos of the final product. Exquisite. jaj

 

cjv

I am not sure where you received the info regarding throttle body count, but to clarify, we are using six individual throttle bodies. Here are additional engine photos that might clarify.

 

UGH ..... 1bad gt2 , that thing is plain sick and insane ... wow.... on the exhaust is that a cat right there as it come out of the turbo ? what is that second part near the tips ?

 

Here are some trick additions that we recently installed that might be of interest. The first pic is of a dry break valve that allows the brake lines to be disconnected without losing fluid, thus allowing a caliper to be removed and also eliminates the need to bleed the brakes after pads replaced and caliper reinstalled. The next three are of a very trick valve system that allows the quick bleed of the brakes. First pics show bleed valve and last pic shows quick attachment bleed device.