While not as sexy as 900hp, I like to stop.
Don't have funds for big brakes (new wheels too...for them)...so stock OEM will have to do:


Castrol SRF is the fluid of choice...why, when "wet" the bioling/capacity temp doesn't get affected much.......all the others drop a good deal. I consider this a HUGE safety advantage.

Pads...toyed with lots of options...did review/searches, etc.

Going with the new formula EBC redstuff ceramics (early DE and street). These seem good for this and at 175 for all for corners....not a badly priced option.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/redstuffinfo.html


I'll report back once I brake them in .

 

never used them, hope all goes well.
the stock brakes will serve you well into your DE career.
think about the Cup brake ducts for the front, cheap and good upgrade also.

 

Thanks and will do!

Someone said the 997 turbo ducts are the same (or at least nearly the same) as the 996gt3 ducts, and a LOT cheaper....wonder if they fit...)

jb

 

Instead of SRF, try the GS610. Much cheaper alternative.
I've used both and the GS610 holds up just as well on the track (never had to bleed)

 

Thanks..

I did not have to bleed, but over time (say my zone allows 180 days...) all brake fluid will collect H20...no need to adjust or change (at my level) with the SRF. Boil is basically the same as new.....

If you change fluid before each session/day/weekend....perhaps. I like insurance and brakes are important to me. I am neither a clown nor a comedian....


JB

 

Agreed... When I had my turbo the brakes felt like garbage. I changed fluids, stainless braided lines, pagid pads and the thing was night and day!

 

Couple of comments here...

A: you do not need another set of wheels for bigger front or rear brakes. I'll help you out here when you need or want to go bigger. Remember, I have ONE caliper at a substantial savings, so all you need is the other caliper, the pads and the front and rear rotors...

Ceramic ANYTHING in a pad in combo with steel rotors is bad news. I've used EBC pads for years on motorcycles and Datsun Zcars. Just be aware that ceramic isn't a good compound for stopping. It's a great compound for the waxer crowd because there is little to no dust, but a horrible compound for stopping. If EBC has mastered something different, its news to me.

If you want a great pad with great life, prepare to spend a few bucks, but buy the Pagid Yellows. They perform well, are rotor friendly and last a long time. They'll be a little noisy once you bed them in, but the stopping power is amazing. Also, I'd consider swapping pads from street to track between events. I bought ATE street pads for street use and then would swap to my PAgid Yellows for the track. I'd flush the rotors with brake cleaner, and had no ill effect on the pad, or the rotor when swapping them back and forth.

SRF is good fluid... No, let me change that... it's GREAT fluid. But I don't use it. It's simply to expensive, and for these cars you should bleed your brakes before each event. You "WILL" soak the fluid over time, due in no small part to the leaking fluid yuo'll eventually see around your master cylinder cap... If fluid is escaping, air is getting in. Doesn't matter the brand of fluid.

I've used GS610 and currently have Motul RBF600 because I got a case for $100 on sale and jumped on the deal. Otherwise, I'd use GS610. Great fluid for the money... Swapping pads takes less time than jacking the car up and removing the wheel... Bleeding the brakes? Another 3 minutes per wheel... Get a motiv bleeder, bleed bottle from OG or CDOC and prepare to save some money and DO YOUR BRAKES BEFORE EVERY EVENT!!! These cars are heavy, and therefore need more attention to brakes...

JBC, You should come down one weekend and we should walk you thru this once. You'll be set for life... Don't let shops scare you. Brakes are important, but simple.

Mike

 

JCB,

Agree with the above. If your brakes are that important to you, then you should really switch them out between events. The Pagid yellows are great, but not so great for street driving. Also, as said above, bleeding the brakes is nothing. Get some motul and save some money. The only hassle with the brake pads is the wear sensor. I ended up zip-tying the sensor, so I wouldn't have to worry about it.

 

Dittos on the last two posts. I was using PFC 97 pads for the track, and switched last year to Pagid Yellows. I like them a lot, because they areeasier to modulate than the PFC's. I used Castrol, but switched to Motul for price.

Jon