996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Has anyone upgraded to GT3 control arms?

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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 08:46 AM
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Has anyone upgraded to GT3 control arms?

Please describe the difference in your car's handling after this upgrade. Did you do just the fronts or both front and rear? Did it help prolong tire life as well as handling?
 
Old Jun 16, 2009 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by landjet
Please describe the difference in your car's handling after this upgrade. Did you do just the fronts or both front and rear? Did it help prolong tire life as well as handling?
The main thing that the GT3 control arms give you is the ability to adjust camber to more negative values than is possible with the stock setup. It's a 2-piece control arm. You can separate the two halves and insert shims totaling up to 14mm (at least that is all I can fit in) to get various camber settings. More negative camber helps the car handle on track by keeping the tire flat on the ground under turning loads. This tends to reduce outer shoulder wear, but tires still wear more there than on the inside in the front.

It is possible to go between track and street alignment settings by removing shims.

I think it's a good mod.

Hope this helps.

Jon
 
Old Jun 16, 2009 | 02:50 PM
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Great awnswer thanks, I want to do it too.
 
Old Jun 16, 2009 | 03:53 PM
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I believe my mechanic installed GT2 rear control arms so we could get to -2.00 camber.
 
Old Jun 16, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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Thanks Jon, I knew you had done this. Was there any down side to this mod.

I just did the sway bar update. Should have done it a long time ago. What a difference.
 
Old Jun 16, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by landjet
Thanks Jon, I knew you had done this. Was there any down side to this mod.

I just did the sway bar update. Should have done it a long time ago. What a difference.
Yeah, you shoulda done those bars right away. That takes you a good part of the way to eliminating the push, but you need more negative camber to really make it work.

There are only very minor down sides that I can think of. One is that I have to crawl under the car to take the shims in and out, and getting that last shim in place can be difficult. The other is that you have to fiddle with the position of the drop links to avoid either hitting the control arm at the bottom or the axle at the top of travel. But those are convenience issues - there is no down side to the handling that I know of.

Jon
 
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 07:48 AM
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Changing the Camber also changes the Toe, so it isn't just as easy as that. That is the downside.
 
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 08:20 AM
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with camber plates I run -3.0 in the front already how much more do you need?
 
Old Jun 17, 2009 | 08:51 AM
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Dietz is correct - you also have to change the toe. I went to the alignment shop and wrote down the number of turns required to go from street to track setting. In fact it's a lot: almost 8 turns.

In response to Tom Kerr - that certainly wasn't possible in my car. The top of the strut hit the inside wall of the opening in the body before I could get even 2 degrees negative. I think that others have had the same experience.

Jon
 
Old Jun 18, 2009 | 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by tom kerr
with camber plates I run -3.0 in the front already how much more do you need?

I need my tires riding on their corners. seriously if you can get that with the stock setup, why need more?
 
Old Jun 18, 2009 | 07:17 AM
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Photos of GT3 front control arms

I was prepping my car for the track yesterday. Here are a couple of pics of the GT3 control arms with all of the shims in place.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by tom kerr
with camber plates I run -3.0 in the front already how much more do you need?
You're pulling in the tops = keeping track width, but with GT3 arms you're extending the track width.

I'm interested in doing the GT3 arms as well, would be nice to see some more details, what was done with the swaybar links to clear the half-shafts etc.
 
Old Jun 18, 2009 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWhite
You're pulling in the tops = keeping track width, but with GT3 arms you're extending the track width.

I'm interested in doing the GT3 arms as well, would be nice to see some more details, what was done with the swaybar links to clear the half-shafts etc.
Just finished doing that, too! Pics don't show much, but here's how I do it:

1. Disconnect sway bar drop link at bottom.
2. Install shims in control arm.
3. Lower car onto ramps so that wheels and suspension are loaded.
4. Adjust drop link length until there is about 1/2" above control arm. (They move up much more than down)

This length seems to be a little too short (interferes on half shaft) when the shims are removed, so I do the same thing on the reverse install.
 
Old Jun 18, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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Larry, I have them on the front of my car, and would recommend them on all four corners... They are the smartest money spent to make the car handle as designed from Porsche...




Make suire to use the TRG front drop links, and get LOTS of shims, along with the special shim that holds the sensor for the PSM.

With my setup, I was able to dial in up to 2.9 negative on the front (with stoick upper mounts) and 2.5 negative in the rear running Vivid's rear dogbones. I think the rear would benefit from rear GT2/3 lower control arms as well...

Mike
 

Last edited by Mikelly; Jun 18, 2009 at 06:51 PM.
Old Jun 19, 2009 | 08:28 AM
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Mike, I have the TRG drop links. Where did you buy the GT3 control arms and shims? How about the special shim for the PSM sensor? I think I'll do this upgrade when I change over to the Motons.
 


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