996 Alarm module over ride.
Well, after 9 hours of investigation, I have found it possible using multiple links and connections to run all the Windows, engine hood lock,front hood lock, fuel cap release, all internal lighting and Aux power without having the Alarm-Cl module in the Car. Completely removed.
My goal is to have the car running with no alarm, immobiliser, central Locking unit fitted in the car.
Not permanent but just as an exercise as to how the system is built and can be overridden.

My next task, is to work out how the immobiliser works and over ride that too.
The reason for all this is: Well, if I have got to live with a car that relies so much on technology, I want to know how to over come that technology if I get stuck in the middle of now where.

The transmitter in the key fob is not required to start the car either. I have taken out the internal remove electronics leaving a bare Key and just the tiny induction coil set in the plastic. It is this induction coil ( no batteries required0 that triggers the ignition engine lock ( immobiliser).
If I can get round this then even the Master non remote key could be used to start the car and run it.

I have been surprised by the sheer complexity that each individual system in the Car interacts with each other via the alarm module, but once out of the alarm how old fashioned the rest of the interlinks are. Still good old earth/ground switching and old fashioned relay control.
I need to know how the engine is stopped from starting. Is it by removing power to the starter relay , dme relay or fuel pump relay? So going to have another bash at it later.

I will, of course keep running the car with the alarm - Cl module fitted.
Frank

 

Since both my key remotes has stopped working, I'm considering installing an aftermarket alarm that has turbo timer and remote start (really hot weather where I'm at right now) ... $300 vs however much the dealer charges ...

I was told that the OEM alarm cannot be taken out of the car ... apparently, this information is incorrect.

What did you end up doing to achieve this?

Do you have the wiring diagram for locking / unlocking the doors?

 

I'm not there yet....
Every thing I have done could be called extreme at the moment. I have had each system working without the alarm unit in the car. I have still to work out the immobiliser and the central locking.
If I can get the immobiliser "immobilised" then I will look at the last system which is the central locking system. That looks the most complicated.

I intend to keep posting my efforts even if it doesn't work.

However I can already see why the alarm-CL unit not functioning correctly can cause so many other faults.

My aim is no longer to completely remove the system. The unit from Design911 is only about £250. I would think an after market system would be about the same. No, what I want to do is understand the system so I dont have to take the Car to a garage.
So far I have found the module controls the following. and there's more still to come:
A. Interior lights (100 % control of them), including all door lights, courtesy lights, engine and hood lights, orientation lights, foot-well lights, vanity mirror lights. The rub is, most of the lighting systems are not linked together. You have got to jump out each lighting system to make them
work. Total of about 4 sub systems to jump out to get all the lighting to work.
B. Alarm sounder & Tilt unit outside of the Car.
C. The power load shut down system. ( eg 2 hrs & 5 day shut down)
D. The immobiliser.
E. The Power Windows. All the powered for the different Window functions( eg up/down/comfort down etc) are all different sub systems with individual control from the Alarm . I had to jump out 3 signals to get the Windows to work correctly. The Open door/open window operation is not controlled by the alarm-cl unit and if the fuse C3 is pulled to the alarm unit you can still open the doors with the key and start the car. But will have no other control of the windows /CL/interior lights etc. Even with the Alarn unit completely removed the dor/window functions works.
Frank

 

From all this research ... how do I resynch my remote key with the OEM alarm?

I tried the reverse battery thing, the open the door with the lock and press the button ... the ignition on and off and press the button thing ...

Nothing seemed to work. I'm not sure if its the control module or key remotes...

I already have the aftermarket alarm ... I just need to figure out how to wire it in right ...

 

My research so far probably wont help you at this stage. Its more like finding out you have bubonic plague, finding a cure is another problem altogether. lol
However, you could try the following.
Pull Fuse C3. You will loose all control of windows, CL and interior lighting. Start the car, stop the car and wait for 20 minutes. Put the fuse back in. Shut the doors and lock using the Key. Wait for another 20 minutes or so. Try the key fob.
You could also check to see if the antenna has come off the Alarm module. Its under the left hand seat (uk car) Remove the seat 4 bolts. Don't have to disconnect it just tilt the whole thing backwards.
The unit smack in the middle of the floor is the alarm check for any lose connections. The antenna is a small gold single connection. check all the connectors. The unit is prone to damp if the door membrane has been compromised. To remove the connectors for the alarm unit first it is best to disconnect the battery. use the standard disconnect procedure.
Hope this will help for now.
Frank

 

Frank... I noticed the post on PH also, remember our Alarm system (ROW) is different to US... we also have a battery backup on our system... pointless posting here

 

.

The battery back up for us here is just an aftermarket alarm bolted next to the battery. I have mine sitting on the garage floor. Totally removed so I dont have to be deafened whilst I am playing with the rest of the system.
I would think the USA system will be the same as ours minus the aftermarket alarm sounder. It looks like something you might buy from Halfords. To remove it, Ignition to on, remove battery connection, undo 1 X 13mm nut to external alarm unit, unplug. Put connector into a plastic bag to keep out weather. Put battery back on again. No screeching external alarm. Just the horns to the car. Which silence when you turn the key. Silence is golden ahh.....
Frank.

 

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew...ngdiagrams.asp

This might help you somewhat..

 

grazzie infinite!

 

I have hit my first real problem since starting.
The immobiliser side of the alarm unit talks to the dme via a "W".
I will put a scope on the wire later and see what sort of signal it has on it.
Frank.

 

Well,
I have reached the proverbila brick wall. The end.

I know how to override all the cars systems that run throught the Alarm-Cl unit apart from the immobiliser. Its digitally encoded into the DME. Had my Tektronic 455A scope on the signal lead.
So bank goes my hopes of removing the Alarm unit completely from the car and still have it running if I ever had to. I have learnt alot about the system though. So not a total waste of time.
Going to keep chipping at the problem when I have time in the future.
Frank

ps, now if I could use a simulator to replicate the immobiliser code???

 

The immo can be by passed through dme changes. I have 1 ecu for emulation that I can use in any car durning live tuning. Its not something I would offer, but its possible.

 

Hi Tony, any chance you can PM me with some more details so I can do the same. Or email enquiries@sunnysidebb.co.uk.

Any help would be very much appreciated
Frank