So, I am at 90k miles and thought that I would replace my coffin control arms and upper strut mounts to get rid of play. I am currently running H&R coilovers and will not be changing those anytime soon. However I do need more camber adjustment to get the camber settings I am trying to run. Would it be better to replace the lower control arms with the Gt3 units, or go with stock? Also, if I am replacing strut mounts would it just be better to go with camber adjustable upper mounts and switch to new stock non-adjustable lower control arms? Also, I am considering installing monoballs on the control arms. Any input or reviews of the monoball cartridges that go into stock control arms?

Any other advise on things to replace while I am in there would be great.

 

The H&R coilover kit is a great out of the box street coilover but works well at mild track work also. I would not buy the stock LCA but rather spend the few extra bucks and get the front 996GT3 LCA which will allow you plenty of camber adjustability. I prefer these over upper camber plates because as you shim the lower LCAs you are also widening the track at the same time. A good place to start is with the 7mm of shims per side and flip the arms left to right so you can pull your caster back out to stock with the added shims. With 7mm of shims per side and maxing out the tops you will get about -2.5 mm of camber (give or take depending on ride height). For the rear LCAs, I would just install monoballs and solid caster pucks in your existing units unless the outer ball joint is shot in which case you will need new arms.

Monoballs are a great improvement with no downside. Added NVH is negligible so I wouldn't worry about that. Tarett makes top quality monoballs that you can retrofit on on the GT3 LCAs or you can purchase these with the monoballs already installed. Having monoballs in the rear is a huge benefit as it really locks down the rear suspension and prevents toe from changing under braking and acceleration. Tire wear (especially the inner portion of the tire) improves dramatically. Monoballs is the front are not going to be that important for the street but still a plus. Solid Caster pucks (Tarett) are also a great addition with virtually no downside. I would go with nonadjustable ones in the rear and adjustable ones in the front so you can fine tune caster since that will change as you add shims in the GT3 LCAs

 

unfortunately as far as I know, the tie rod end can not be replaced... double confirm whether this is the case, as i'ts one more reason to replace the OEM lower arm. (note gt3 and other aftermarket require minimal drilling to retain the sensor bracket.

GT3 units allow additional camber adjustment (via shims) because it comes in 2 pcs. Inner section comes OEM with rubber bush. Outter section thrust bush is also rubber. Believe the extra camber (castor adjust) is useful for aggressive track settings and to fit wider track.

Monoball inserts or aftermarket inner/outer section are optional and additional cost. Lots of aftermarket options for the outer section as well, but most of them offer only solid non-and-adjustable caster (thrust arm) bushings. Thus if choice is to go mono, believe it's cheaper to use after market. Remember with gt3 arms. additional labor to press out rubber bushings and install solid.

I've heard it's better to use all rubber bushings or all mono. Mixing it up tends to bring additional stress and increased movement to remaining rubber bushings. Monoball bush will make noise over time. Can add dust covers + Teflon lube but eventually they'll make noise.

play can also be attributed to strut mounts, thrust arms & tie/steering rods: replacements range anywhere from OEM to monoball fully adjustable aftermarket.

lots of variables to consider on lower arms, mix n match what's right for you. Make sure to check regulations in your area, some countries check arms/bushings for annual inspections.

 

[QUOTE=Mad Ness;3950113]unfortunately as far as I know, the tie rod end can not be replaced... double confirm whether this is the case, as i'ts one more reason to replace the OEM lower arm. (note gt3 and other aftermarket require minimal drilling to retain the sensor bracket. [QUOTE]

The factory steering tie rod end can be replaced. The OEM piece is only about $70 per side.

The OEM 996GT3 2pc. LCA comes with the xenon sensor bracket. No drilling or mods are required. It's a direct bolt on.

 

You're right most product offerings now do include the bracket. Seem to remember installing my Gt3 LCA's years ago, didn't come with brackets. But that's irrelevant now.

Attached a photo of the outter LCA circling the tie rod. Is this the part that can be replaced OEM for 70/side? Would you happen to know the part number, can't seem to find it. thanks.

For those looking for more info. More details/links in this old thread here.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...lower-arm.html

 

When you said tie rod I thought you meant the steering tie rod. What you have circled is the outer lower control arm ball joint. Those are not replaceable.

 

Vagscum: Do you have any pics of you car, I'd like to see how it looks w/the H&R Coilovers? I heard they really slam the car. Which ones are they the street- perf or clubsport? THx.

 

They are the street coilovers. The old version used to be slammed but then they revised the front shocks to remedy this. The older ones used stock front perches with conical shaped springs like the stock ones.

 

Do you know in what year they revised them? I'm just wondering what years mine fall under before I install em.

 

I have done all. I would go with the two piece units. You can get Porsche ones with the rubber bushing or a mono ball. if you decide that the mono ball is for you I would look into the RSS units as the price is pretty good. I have all 4 RSS arm and also have gt3 mono ball ones on the shelf sitting stand by.. The gt3 ones have a seal outer ball joint the RSS ones are open to the elements.

 

2009 timeframe. Give or take a year. This is a picture of the new version fronts:

 

Not sure when. However, the best thing is to look at the front springs and see if they are ~10 inches wide or 5 inches. The distributors of these sometimes had old stock that they sold fora discounted price after H&R updated to the newer perches. So dating the ones you are looking at or own bases in when it was purchased is not the best way.

 

Don't forget about the rear business end were all the weight a power are. Rear upper dog bones, adjustable toe links, adjustable drop links, motor mounts, tranny mounts, and a 997 factory short shifter (or a numeric with GT cables if you can afford it)

 

Pwdrhound,

Is 7mm worth of spacers on the front GT3 LCAs too much camber for the stock awd front axle? Will I need the 10mm axle spacer?

I'm on stock suspension and ride height. What is a good camber angle for the street?

 

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I had RSS LCA in front and they were good, but need maintenance every few thousand miles. On the initial install things were so horribly out of adjustment with wheel rubbing and the dash warning lights lit up like Xmas tree that I ended up flat-bedding to the alignment shop. Doing it again I’d go oem gt3 for greater reliability.