996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Engine rebuild questions...

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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 02:34 PM
  #106  
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To really appreciate this oil pump installation you need to know there were some rod clearance issues. Take a look. I believe wee wore ot this housing just installing, visually checking, installating, checking. etc. etc. etc


 

Last edited by cjv; May 6, 2022 at 03:24 PM.
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 02:42 PM
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Yes, the case also needed some attention to fit the GT1 pump.






 

Last edited by cjv; May 6, 2022 at 03:24 PM.
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 03:21 PM
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I run less then 1 psi at the crankcase at full tilt with a properly set up gt3 pump.
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim941NYC
I run less then 1 psi at the crankcase at full tilt with a properly set up gt3 pump.
Tim .... I don't know a thing about you, but the fact you know your case pressure says a good thing about you.

Hopefully, threads like this gives fellow 6speed readers an opportunity to better understand certain principle's of their motors. I was more than hesitant to share some of this as much of it goes to extreme and it can lead to people looking at one in a unfavorable light. As in show off. This was certainly not my intention. In some instances both myself and people I have used to help design and build this motor have made what in hind sight looks to be some silly errors.
 

Last edited by cjv; Nov 10, 2013 at 09:04 PM.
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cjv
Hopefully, threads like this gives fellow 6speed readers an opportunity to better understand certain principle's of their motors. I was more than hesitant to share some of this as much of it goes to extreme and it can lead to people looking at one in a unfavorable light. As in show off. This was certainly not my intention. In some instances both myself and people I have used to help design and build this motor have made what in hind sight looks to be some silly errors.
I build hot rod motorcycle motors for a living and have since the '70's. Mainly big V-Twin and for a decade or so 4 cylinder roadrace motors. I have too, made mistakes. One, in about 1980, I did a free sidewalk cam chain tensioner adjustment on a Kaw 900 for a customer. Cost me a free teardown and reassemble, a few valves, guides and gaskets. I've made several other mistakes along the way. I've found honesty is by far the best policy. Admit your mistakes, offer to right your wrongs + a little bit more, you'll keep your customers and gain a few.
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by nick49
I build hot rod motorcycle motors for a living and have since the '70's. Mainly big V-Twin and for a decade or so 4 cylinder roadrace motors. I have too, made mistakes. One, in about 1980, I did a free sidewalk cam chain tensioner adjustment on a Kaw 900 for a customer. Cost me a free teardown and reassemble, a few valves, guides and gaskets. I've made several other mistakes along the way. I've found honesty is by far the best policy. Admit your mistakes, offer to right your wrongs + a little bit more, you'll keep your customers and gain a few.
Ditto but I am a hobbyist/gearhead,, but that is part of the learning curve,,LOL.,,I did that cam chain tensioner mistake on the first Suzuki GS1000 motor builds,, LOL...
Then I went to Harley stuff later on ,,these are back in the days when I built and tuned my Harley stuff...
 
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 01:40 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by cjv
I was more than hesitant to share some of this as much of it goes to extreme and it can lead to people looking at one in a unfavorable light. As in show off. This was certainly not my intention.
There are just way to many keyboard experts out there that are willing to try and call you out, I have all but shut up on forums because of this; But I really do like seeing what some other guys are experimenting with.

And hey we all screw up sometimes, one of my most epic screw ups has been watched millions of times on you tube; and it took place in-front of tens of thousands of fans at a track. Oh the internet!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Last edited by Engine Guy; Nov 11, 2013 at 01:46 AM.
Old Nov 11, 2013 | 06:16 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Tim941NYC
I run less then 1 psi at the crankcase at full tilt with a properly set up gt3 pump.
Tim,
What is the part number for the GT3 oil pump? Is it a 996 or 997 pump? Direct bolt on or any mods required to fit? Thank you.

Also, anyone know the part number of the GT3 crank that can be used? Same question, is it a direct bolt on or any mod required to fit?
 

Last edited by pwdrhound; Nov 11, 2013 at 06:20 PM.
Old Nov 12, 2013 | 12:04 AM
  #114  
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What is the crankcase pressure of the OEM 996TT? Just as a reference.

I find this build really outstanding and love all the details that have been taken care for.

Andreas
 
Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:51 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Tim,
What is the part number for the GT3 oil pump? Is it a 996 or 997 pump? Direct bolt on or any mods required to fit? Thank you.

Also, anyone know the part number of the GT3 crank that can be used? Same question, is it a direct bolt on or any mod required to fit?
pump fits right in. here is the part number for it 996-107-007-94
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 04:04 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by prodigymb
pump fits right in. here is the part number for it 996-107-007-94
Thank you Tim..
 
Old Nov 12, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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Hey guys,
It seems this thread has sort of gone off on a tangent detailing many very cool pictures and info relating to 1000+ hp builds and moved away from the basic questions that I was asking in my original post. 8 or 9 pages later and I'm still trying to get an answer to the question of what improvements to the valve train are needed or recommended to safely allow the engine to operate at a 7500 redline. So far the only thing that has been mentioned a few pages back are Eibach springs of some type. Can any of the knowledgeable engine builders here please provide some insight into valve train mods for a 600hp 7500rpm track motor? Additionally, anyone have the part number for the GT3 crank that will fit the TT motor and will it fit without modification? I have gotten mixed answers on that.

At this point I'm staring to narrow the rebuild down to Pauter or Carillo steel rods, GT3 oil pump, 3.8 Mahle pistons/liners, GT3 crank, GT3 IMS, valve train mods (?).

I'm still not really sure which of the above items beside the rods are really needed or worth doing for my goals.

Thanks...
 
Old Nov 12, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Hey guys,
It seems this thread has sort of gone off on a tangent detailing many very cool pictures and info relating to 1000+ hp builds and moved away from the basic questions that I was asking in my original post. 8 or 9 pages later and I'm still trying to get an answer to the question of what improvements to the valve train are needed or recommended to safely allow the engine to operate at a 7500 redline. So far the only thing that has been mentioned a few pages back are Eibach springs of some type. Can any of the knowledgeable engine builders here please provide some insight into valve train mods for a 600hp 7500rpm track motor? Additionally, anyone have the part number for the GT3 crank that will fit the TT motor and will it fit without modification? I have gotten mixed answers on that.

At this point I'm staring to narrow the rebuild down to Pauter or Carillo steel rods, GT3 oil pump, 3.8 Mahle pistons/liners, GT3 crank, GT3 IMS, valve train mods (?).

I'm still not really sure which of the above items beside the rods are really needed or worth doing for my goals.

Thanks...
Valve train mods? Unless life is being lived at this rpm your stock valve train will be fine. If you are using stock cams, you have gotten all you are going to get at 7500 rpm's and you really haven't gained much over the last 300/400 rpm's. I guess the question should be why go there and for what reason? You have long ago passed your sweet spot and just pushing your rpm's after this point will only lose quickness. Now if you are in your final gear with a lot of road space and looking for top speed ...... then by all means extend the redline. The same question could apply to the crank. The stock crank is strong enough to more than handle your goals.

The rods (either Pauter or Carillo) are a great add for your application as is the GT3 oil pump. Frankly, for 600 hp why change the pistons and liners unless you want to run with pump gas and less boost.

An item some people don't realize (and they are cheap insurance) is a bearing upgrade. The stock Clevite bearings are not designed for extreme loads. I believe for less than an additional $50.00 can upgrade to their extreme load bearings.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post3967540
 

Last edited by cjv; Nov 12, 2013 at 07:16 PM.
Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cjv
Valve train mods? Unless life is being lived at this rpm your stock valve train will be fine. If you are using stock cams, you have gotten all you are going to get at 7500 rpm's and you really haven't gained much over the last 300/400 rpm's. I guess the question should be why go there and for what reason? You have long ago passed your sweet spot and just pushing your rpm's after this point will only lose quickness. Now if you are in your final gear with a lot of road space and looking for top speed ...... then by all means extend the redline. The same question could apply to the crank. The stock crank is strong enough to more than handle your goals.

The rods (either Pauter or Carillo) are a great add for your application as is the GT3 oil pump. Frankly, for 600 hp why change the pistons and liners unless you want to run with pump gas and less boost.

An item some people don't realize (and they are cheap insurance) is a bearing upgrade. The stock Clevite bearings are not designed for extreme loads. I believe for less than an additional $50.00 can upgrade to their extreme load bearings.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post3967540
Myself being more in Drag Race acceleration mood then road race mode,,
Look at that differently,,
I believe in gear recovery after each shift with HP under that curve,,,higher up the curve accelerates quicker...You can plot that out with a dyno chart and doing the calculations of RPM spread between shifts..Thats why most of the time a close ratio trans will always run quicker.
Just sharing my thoughts that have worked for me..
 
Old Nov 12, 2013 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by johnspeed
Myself being more in Drag Race acceleration mood then road race mode,,
Look at that differently,,
I believe in gear recovery after each shift with HP under that curve,,,higher up the curve accelerates quicker...You can plot that out with a dyno chart and doing the calculations of RPM spread between shifts..Thats why most of the time a close ratio trans will always run quicker.
Just sharing my thoughts that have worked for me..
Look at 3.6L 996tt dyno charts for 600 hp motors (stock cams) from let's say 6800 to 7500 rpm's, how much gain in hp do you see in this range? The torque has long since gone into decline! How would spending any time in this range instead of shifting to the next gear make the car quicker? In lower/mid rpm's torque accelerates. In higher rpm's hp accelerates. With the above described motor there would be no torque gain and very little hp gain above 6800 rpm's. When shifting wouldn't one want to shift at a rpm's level where after the shift (bottom of next gear) one would be near or fast approaching peak torque? It's been awhile but wouldn't that be about 3880-4200 rpm's on a stock cam 996tt? Am I missing something?
 

Last edited by cjv; Nov 12, 2013 at 09:16 PM.


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