So piecing this together from the photos, I think this is a complete parts list for 6an in tank to fuel rail setup e85 compatible setup. I am using 6an all the way through with a 40 micron stainless steel fuel filter then to 1100cc injectors. This is just the setup that I have chosen, yours may differ. I would look at spending $1150 for the entire setup with the biggest cost being injectors.

I've attached a screen shot of my jegs order for an fittings and lines - I am sure you can find cheaper (ebay) but I opted for jegs to make sure if any returns were needed there would not be an issue.

-Fuel Injector Clinic IS901-1100H - 1100cc FIC Porsche 996 Turbo Fuel Injector Clinic Injector Set (High-Z)
-Walbro F90000267 internal E85 fuel pump with installation kit ( fuel strainer, fuel hose, harness pigtail, 2 clamps, 2 wire connectors)
-Russell 632080 - Russell Pro Flex Steel Braided Hose 15' ( 1)
-JEGS Performance Products 16262 - JEGS Steel AN & NPT Weld Fittings ( 1)
-Earl's 300106 - Earl's ''AN'' Auto-Fit Aluminum Hose End Fittings ( 3)
-Earl's 312006 - Earl's ''AN'' Auto-Fit Aluminum Hose End Fittings ( 1)
-Earl's 983206 - Earl's Bulkhead ''AN'' Adapter Fittings ( 1)
-Earl's 592406 - Earl's Bulkhead ''AN'' Adapter Fittings ( 1)
-Fuelab 81811-1 - Fuelab 818/828 Series In-Line Fuel Filters ( 1)
-AEM 1-3007 - AEM High Volume Fuel Crush Washers ( 2)
-Dorman 487402 - Autograde No. 6 Hose Fitting O‑ring ( 1)

Hope this helps someone else out in their build!

 

I'm in the process of installing the SRM fuel pump kit. What are you guys doing with the crack prone OEM "U" shaped hose? Any replacement options? Porsche doesn't sell that separately. Thx

 

Hey John,
Can use this as a replacement, seems to work for a couple years before replacement again. http://www.jegs.com/i/Gates/465/27093/10002/-1
Cheers,
Rob

 

Getting ready to do this as well. Is there any other options for the U-shaped hose???

 

I've researched this up, down and sideways, and there is no real option for a quality submersible fuel hose except the Gates fuel line. Do not use anything that is not marked as such. They are sold in 1' sections at bout $35 each and you will need two pieces which will be separated by the check valve. Total length of hose ends up around 18".

[url=https://flic.kr/p/rogbSg]

 

And here I thought you could just put in a bigger fuel pump and call it a day....but nooooo. You have to reengineer the entire system. Ugh

 

Ive just got one of Sams kits and have gone a slightly different route
2 pumps, 2 feeds, 2 filters, 3 dry break couplings and 1100cc injectors










And a couple of GT28's cause its rude not too

 

I see, but you are doing the SRM pump set up. I'm just replacing the original pump with a Walbro at this time. So, it looks like I only need about 3-4" to replace this little "U", right?

 

Nice one. Question. Your still running the stock passenger rail with the fuel pressure on it. Any reason why you did this??

Also, where did you get the an fittings for the fuel rail??

Thanks

 

I think you may find the fitting to the rail a restriction with two pumps, is why they built the rails they did - which are a work of freakin' art BTW,

 

In a parrellel rail setup - the stock fuel rails are fine as the flow is effectively halved through each rail. The advantage to bigger rails is more volume which minimizes the injector pulse effect - but I'm not convinced it's an issue unless your running massive injectors.

 

compared to stock injectors i would call 1100 cc injectors massive. instead of running the pass rail use a drivers side flip it and use it on the pass side i started this way and have an extra rail . i ended up going billet rails due to the size of the fuel line I'm running would be hard to get fittings on stock rails

 

I replaced the "U" and at the plastic accordion pipe. You will not find anyone that makes a submersible "U" shaped fuel line like the OEM one. I just found it easier to replace both as it was the only viable option. This applies to OEM fuel kit also.

 

Thanks for all your input and help! Here is a potentially ignorant question:

What is the purpose of the "U-shaped" fuel line, other than housing the check valve? In every image I have looked at, it seems the line can just be straight, as the accordion line ends up facing a similar direction anyways. It seems the accordion line by itself can do the same thing...??? Please educate me.

 

The reg is removed and we welded a plate over the opening for the reg, I wasnt clever enough to think of using the non regulated rail but also wanted something to work with as little expenditure as possible in case any customers want to follow suit.

I got the fittings from Torques-uk (ebay) but you need a M16X1.5 female to -6 male and the female fitting has to have a 60degree cone in it. You could just tig weld some steel -6 weld on fittings on but these just screw on. Theres a company in the UK called Think Automotive who are very helpful as well