As I start collecting parts for the GT2/G50 manual hydraulics I have a few questions. Seeing I am drilling and tapping the case versus performing the EVOMs approach the hose for the slave may be a different length than the EVOMS one or the GT2. I just need some input from somebody that has done this approach as far as which hose to use for the slave? Any help would be appreciated.

 

when drilling for a oem gt2 location the oem gt2 hyd line is used. theres a locking ring inside the old oem slave line that is reused when attaching the new line with the old female threaded housing. this is how you attach the new gt2 line to the hard line from the body of the car. 996 turbo and gt2 have different threads so you use the 996 turbo female housing on the new gt2 line

 

I had my gearbox drilled and tapped for the GT2 slave. All OEM GT2 parts are used. Very easy. No need to Frankenstein anything...

 

OE line does work but SS braided can be had for much less, I believe you want 20"( I'll have to double check)

 

20" is the length for the Evoms mod. I believe the gt2 method is different because of the different mounting location. I want to us braided SS, but need the OEM gt2 hose length to get one made.

 

no need for braided s/s unless its what you have to have . the oem line is only 75$ and works as well as needed

 

I just did this a few months ago, off the top of my head I used a 24" ( longer then needed) line but I'll check for you today.
Why use the OE rubber line if you can go SS for less? Also for reference where are you buying it at $75?

 

OEM for $75!! Do share? I can still and may get custom for less. But currently I can only find the GT2 hose for $120.

 

Prices have gone up. Wholesale on the GT2 hose (996-423-377-90) is right at $100 with retail prices closer to $130. With that said, I'm not aware of anyone having issues with the factory hoses. Why use the OE rubber line? So you don't have to reinvent the wheel. The OE line fits perfect and just plain works without issues. Contrary to popular belief, these lines ARE NOT RUBBER. They are a composite mesh core wrapped with a rubber protective layer. Same goes for brake lines. Cup cars run the same "rubber" lines from the factory so if it's good for the then certainly it's good for the typical street car stop light racer application.

 

sorry just went off what i paid from pelican parts. checking their site it seems they have gone up in price. still at 120$ its a direct fit and no worry about leaking at the fittings.

 

I used the factory hose, then needed to cut in a psi sender. The stock hose is very similar to -4 aeroquip socketless hose or aka push lock. Now I re did it in -4 Stainless steel braided Teflon. I used a 12x1.0 x -4 AN with a copper washer to adapt the slave to -4. Any good hydraulic hose shop can put the factory end onto a -4 male. You make the hose between or they can. I also cover any ss braid with heat shrink to protect things around it.. The ss braid will cut anything over time.

 

It looks like I'm going to be doing this job as well. It would really help if you posted your detailed parts list so anyone attempting this (me too) can bring the parts together quickly. Maybe I can start and you can correct me if I'm wrong...

GT2 slave: 996 116 237 90
GT2 master: 996 243 71 06
GT2 assist spring: 996 423 081 13
GT2 clutch fluid hose: 996-423-377-90
Brake fluid cap: 996 355 119 01

 

heres everything needed for the conversion. i was able to find a p/s setup for 300$ but you can either plug the hyd lines or remove them and tap the reservoir and pump for plugs. its your choice
GT2 Slave…996 116 237 90 $130
GT2 Master…996 243 171 06 $65
GT2 Assist spring (you definitely want this, trust me)…996 423 081 18 $55
Brake fluid cap…996 355 119 01 $5
GT2 Hose…996 423 377 90 $105
GT2 Clutch fork…997 116 086 90 $180
GT2/Tip PS reservoir (optional, you can just plug the lid)…997 314 920 50 $480
GT2 PS pump (optional, just remove the coupler from the turbo pump)…996 314 050 01 $400

btw the prices have gone up since i did this

 

What do you guys think about machining the case so rod length is not effected? Redoing my trans now.

 

rod length isn't affected by the swap. doing it the oem way uses all oem parts inc the rod. unless you have a different clutch like i do (carbonetics triple disk) the pedal height should be fine. mine is higher than i prefer but the clutch only has 800 miles on it and for me the engagement is in the same place every time so being high isn't that bad

you will need to clearance the inside of the housing just a little for the new cutch fork to clear. takes less than 10 minutes