Basemap from EPL ; k24/18gs
Basemap from EPL ; k24/18gs
Hey Guys,
Just was curious if anyone who's had experience with turbo upgrades and their base map. I just got my k24/18gs installed, and basemap from EPL is hitting .7 Bar. I understand it's a base map, but the car feels pretty slow (much slower than before). Just wasn't sure if anyone else had a similar experience before they had it dialed in, I suppose I just figured the base map wouldn't feel like a dog...and really hoping I didn't just blow a ton of money on all these mods.
PS ; i should mind you it's been two weeks since i've driven the car so the anticipation has been killing me, and i'm going out of town for another ten days (of course on a holiday weekend) and EPL is on vacation. wah waah.
Just was curious if anyone who's had experience with turbo upgrades and their base map. I just got my k24/18gs installed, and basemap from EPL is hitting .7 Bar. I understand it's a base map, but the car feels pretty slow (much slower than before). Just wasn't sure if anyone else had a similar experience before they had it dialed in, I suppose I just figured the base map wouldn't feel like a dog...and really hoping I didn't just blow a ton of money on all these mods.
PS ; i should mind you it's been two weeks since i've driven the car so the anticipation has been killing me, and i'm going out of town for another ten days (of course on a holiday weekend) and EPL is on vacation. wah waah.
Hey Guys,
Just was curious if anyone who's had experience with turbo upgrades and their base map. I just got my k24/18gs installed, and basemap from EPL is hitting .7 Bar. I understand it's a base map, but the car feels pretty slow (much slower than before). Just wasn't sure if anyone else had a similar experience before they had it dialed in, I suppose I just figured the base map wouldn't feel like a dog...and really hoping I didn't just blow a ton of money on all these mods.
PS ; i should mind you it's been two weeks since i've driven the car so the anticipation has been killing me, and i'm going out of town for another ten days (of course on a holiday weekend) and EPL is on vacation. wah waah.
Just was curious if anyone who's had experience with turbo upgrades and their base map. I just got my k24/18gs installed, and basemap from EPL is hitting .7 Bar. I understand it's a base map, but the car feels pretty slow (much slower than before). Just wasn't sure if anyone else had a similar experience before they had it dialed in, I suppose I just figured the base map wouldn't feel like a dog...and really hoping I didn't just blow a ton of money on all these mods.
PS ; i should mind you it's been two weeks since i've driven the car so the anticipation has been killing me, and i'm going out of town for another ten days (of course on a holiday weekend) and EPL is on vacation. wah waah.
Tony starts you off at wastegate as a base line and works his way up with logging back and forth to make sure all is well with car.
We did about 14 logs back and forth and had my Billet 16 tune to the tee! You log and send it to him, then he sends you back a tune with higher boost and timing. You keep repeating until he finds the limit to your environment, fuel (octane), and set up. Then he backs it down a bit from that level. Now you have a custom tuned car optimally tuned for YOUR SET UP!
I had the upgraded AMS wastegates and he started me off at 0.9bar and we worked our way up to 1.3BAR. We were going to go to 1.4BAR, but we waited for a hot and humid day for me to log one more time at 1.3 and we noticed a little pulling of timing and we stopped there.
The first time I took a pull in my car I thought the same thing, "man I lost power!", but trust me, a little patience is GOING to pay off for you with a big grin on your face!
Give Tony a call and he will look after you!
Thanks
Bobby Ali
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Last edited by Bobbyfali; Jul 4, 2014 at 05:53 AM.
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oem waste gates? if so .7 is what your going to see. if you have 1 bar w/g you need to do a boost leak check and go from there.having a durametric allows you to catalog specific parameters to send to tony so he can fine tune the files. it also lets you see timing, boost oat's, ext. to better understand what he is doing. if you have any cel's you can diagnose them on durametric and then clear them. good chatting with you today
Last edited by 32krazy!; Jul 3, 2014 at 07:14 PM.
Thanks guys!
Bobby - did yours feel like a dog when you first took it out too? I suppose i'll just be waiting to get back from my trip to start logging.
Steve- small world! I'm assuming the flashing cable that came with my kit is NOT a durametric. I believe I have 1 bar WG's (AMS) but not sure if they need adjusting.
Bobby - did yours feel like a dog when you first took it out too? I suppose i'll just be waiting to get back from my trip to start logging.
Steve- small world! I'm assuming the flashing cable that came with my kit is NOT a durametric. I believe I have 1 bar WG's (AMS) but not sure if they need adjusting.
Thanks guys!
Bobby - did yours feel like a dog when you first took it out too? I suppose i'll just be waiting to get back from my trip to start logging.
Steve- small world! I'm assuming the flashing cable that came with my kit is NOT a durametric. I believe I have 1 bar WG's (AMS) but not sure if they need adjusting.

Bobby - did yours feel like a dog when you first took it out too? I suppose i'll just be waiting to get back from my trip to start logging.
Steve- small world! I'm assuming the flashing cable that came with my kit is NOT a durametric. I believe I have 1 bar WG's (AMS) but not sure if they need adjusting.
Yes at first it felt like a dog, especially since these larger wheels really start waking up with higher boost!
Still make sure your car is running well and has no boost leaks etc.
flash cable isn't a durametric. either visit the durametric website or hunt the classifieds for someone selling theirs. enthusiast version allows 3 vin's to be used. most have 1 or 2 then sold.
you have the ams 1 bar w/g. need a mityvac and slowly pressuize each side and see what pressure they are cracking open. should be 1 bar. at .7 sounds like you have boost leaks. also need to test at the n75 valve to ensure both w/g are opening at the same time. chasing boost leaks can be aggravating. just have to keep after it.
tony can't properly tune the car until all the leaks are found. once the car is solid then he can start pumping the boost and timing
you have the ams 1 bar w/g. need a mityvac and slowly pressuize each side and see what pressure they are cracking open. should be 1 bar. at .7 sounds like you have boost leaks. also need to test at the n75 valve to ensure both w/g are opening at the same time. chasing boost leaks can be aggravating. just have to keep after it.
tony can't properly tune the car until all the leaks are found. once the car is solid then he can start pumping the boost and timing
flash cable isn't a durametric. either visit the durametric website or hunt the classifieds for someone selling theirs. enthusiast version allows 3 vin's to be used. most have 1 or 2 then sold.
you have the ams 1 bar w/g. need a mityvac and slowly pressuize each side and see what pressure they are cracking open. should be 1 bar. at .7 sounds like you have boost leaks. also need to test at the n75 valve to ensure both w/g are opening at the same time. chasing boost leaks can be aggravating. just have to keep after it.
tony can't properly tune the car until all the leaks are found. once the car is solid then he can start pumping the boost and timing
you have the ams 1 bar w/g. need a mityvac and slowly pressuize each side and see what pressure they are cracking open. should be 1 bar. at .7 sounds like you have boost leaks. also need to test at the n75 valve to ensure both w/g are opening at the same time. chasing boost leaks can be aggravating. just have to keep after it.
tony can't properly tune the car until all the leaks are found. once the car is solid then he can start pumping the boost and timing
If i was hitting 1.1 bar on my EVO tune before the new turbos went in, could a boost leak be created after the install? or is it possible these wastegates just aren't 'setup' for 1 bar? Is there adjustment to them or do they just bolt on and they are set at 1bar?
Tony will get you there. You need to use a mighty vac in the psi setting and check the cracking psi of each wg. Yes you can adjust by simply loosening the nut between the waste gate and the arm then tighten the nut on the end till it cracks at 14-15psi then tighten up the first nut you loosened to the arm. I would guess it is just the gates are not adjust correctly.





